Perfumery Base for Reconstitution, Perfume Oil for Fragrance Industry
Ambergris, a solid waxy substance originating in the intestine of the sperm whale (Physeter catodon). In Eastern cultures ambergris is used for medicines and potions and as a spice; in the West it was used to stabilize the scent of fine perfumes. Ambergris floats and washes ashore most frequently on the coasts of China, Japan, Africa, and the Americas and on tropical islands such as the Bahamas. Because it was picked up as drift along the shores of the North Sea, ambergris was likened to the amber of the same region, and its name is derived from the French words for “gray amber.” Fresh ambergris is black and soft and has a disagreeable odour. When exposed to sun, air, and seawater, however, it hardens and fades to a light gray or yellow, developing a subtle and pleasant fragrance in the process. Chemically, ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol. Ambergris was commonly ground into a powder and dissolved in dilute alcohol. Rarely used today due to trade restrictions, its unique musky character added a long-lasting bouquet to the scent of essential flower oils, but, more important, ambergris was a fixative that prevented fragrance from evaporating. Some chemical components of ambergris are now produced synthetically. Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 g (~½ oz) to 50 kg (110 pounds) or more. When initially expelled by or removed from the whale, the fatty precursor of ambergris is pale white in color (sometimes streaked with black), soft, with a strong fecal smell. Following months to years of photo degradation and oxidation in the ocean, this precursor gradually hardens, developing a dark grey or black color, a crusty and waxy texture, and a peculiar odor that is at once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic. Its smell has been generally described as a vastly richer and smoother version of isopropanol without its stinging harshness. In this developed condition, ambergris has aspecific gravity ranging from 0.780 to 0.926. It melts at about 62 °C to a fatty, yellow resinous liquid; and at 100 °C (212 °F) it is volatilized into a white vapor. It is soluble in ether, and in volatile and fixed oils. It has been developed after extensive research and analysis of the natural product which is no longer available. Ambergris is relatively nonreactive to acid. White crystals of a substance called ambrein can be separated from ambergris by heating raw ambergris in alcohol, then allowing the resulting solution to cool. Breakdown of the relatively scentless ambrein through oxidation results in the formation of ambrox and ambrinol, which are the main odour components of ambergris. The product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Is known as Ambergris Maui. It is a very close reproduction of the Natural Ambergris and has been developed to offer perfumers a ready to use material with NO restrictions. A 10% dilution in DPG can be used at 0.1% level in all kinds of Fancy Accords for exceptional diffusion. For Oriental Accords especially for the middle east upto 1% can be used to boost the Agarwood effect.
The botanical name of Ambrette is Hibiscus abelmoschus L. It is a tropical hibiscus with beautiful bright yellow flowers, and its distinctive seed pods look so similar to okra that the plant is sometimes referred to as “musk okra” or “ornamental okra.”Ambrette is native to India, where it is known as Mushkdana or Kasturi Bhendi. The plant grows to just over a meter in height and is an evergreen shrub. When mature the pods split open to reveal kidney-shaped seeds that have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance.Ambrette has long been appreciated in perfumery as one of the few plant oils that contains natural musk compounds, including one named after the plant, ambrettolide.Many synthetic musks are cooked up in laboratories these days, but for people who care about natural products, there is no substitute for the natural.Ambrette oil is expensive and rare because so much work goes into creating it. Unlike some oil crops where the plant leaves are used, Ambrette oil is made only from seeds, which weigh very little and must be carefully gathered.The seeds represent a tiny fraction of the biomass of the entire plant, and only a very small yield of essential oil is achieved -- 0.2% to 0.6% of the total weight of the seeds.In natural perfumery, it can be used in a wide range of compositions including musk bases, amber accords, high class florals, oriental bouquets, incense perfumes, fougere, and new mown hay.Ambrette oil is pale yellow, with an enchanting aroma described variously as sweet, rich, warm musky, fatty and nutty, with floral overtones.After a short period of aging, more complex notes can emerge, such as wine, brandy, fruit, and tobacco. Like all musks, Ambrette is a perfumery base note.It is a powerful, tenacious scent. The main application of Ambrette seed oil is in Perfumes, Tobacco flavoring, Liqueurs and some Fruit flavours. It imparts an exalting effect to fragrance and lends a unique bouquet.However, fragrances need to be matured for about 2-3 weeks for Ambrette seed to show it's beauty. Ambrette seed super is the special product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd.Ambrette seed super is meant to be a replacement for the natural product and is available at a fraction of the cost.It has a very persistent Floral - Musky odour and can be used in almost all types of fragrances.At 0.1% level it has the ability to enhance odour perception for all accords. Perfumes especially that are worn on the skin, Ambrette seed super will impart volume and sensuality.
In the Islamic history, all Prophets are known to have used Bakhoor, but Prophet Mohammad used Bakhoor regularly and more specifically on Fridays. "Bakhoor” is the Arabic name given to scented bricks or a blend of natural traditional ingredients, mainly woodchips (generally Agarwood) soaked in fragrant oils and mixed with other natural ingredients like Resin, Musk, Ambergris, Sandalwood , flower oils and others. These scented chips are burned in charcoal burners to perfume the house and clothing with the fragrance rich smoke. This is used specifically on special occasions like weddings or on relaxing times and love occasions or generally just to perfume the house or store, and to boost positive energy. It is traditional in many Arab countries to pass Bakhoor among guests in Majlis as a gesture of hospitality. The Bakhoor is usually burned in a traditional incense burner known as Mabkhara using charcoal of wood or manufactured charcoal discs and briquettes. Bakhoor is known to bring about calmness in the nervous system, cultivates focus and alertness when used and, as some say, the positive effect it gives to one's libido system when used regularly. Bakhoor is indeed an aromatherapy, is not gender-specific and can be enjoyed by both sexes, though some females may prefer a blended version of Bakhoor due to the strong potent smell of the pure Oud Bakhoor. In the Middle East, men and women burn Bakhoor to fragrance their houses and also their clothes so that the lasting scent will permeate the whole garment. BMV has pursued a lot of research in the field of Bakhoors. BMV offers a wide range of Bakhoors, both for the middle east and India.
Bergamot orange (Citrus bergamia) is a small, roughly pear-shaped citrus fruit, which grows on small trees known as bergamots. It is a cross between pear lemon and Seville orange or grapefruit. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the Ioanion, coastal region of the province of Reggio Calabria, South Italy. Where the soil and climatic conditions are very favourable for its cultivation.It is also cultivated in Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil.But in no other part of the world does it fructify with the same yield and quality of essence. Bergamot is named after Italian city of Bergamo, in which its oil was first sold. It has become a symbol of the entire region and city.This fruit is not edible and is cultivated for production of its essential oil.The essential oil of bergamot is expressed from the ripe fruit peel and is used extensively in perfumery for its sweet freshness.Bergamot oil is also used for flavouring purposes e.g. Earl Grey tea and the so called althea drops, candy-making. It is also used in aromatherapy to treat depression and also as a digestive aid. Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy note. Bergamot oil is used in production of both female and male perfumes and in most fragrance groups, mainly in top notes.It was a component of the original Eau de Cologne developed in Germany in the 17th century and today is used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes.Bergamot Oil is a green or olive green, mobile liquid of extremely rich, sweet-fruity initial odor. Although the characteristics of this topnote remain perceptible in good oils, it is followed by a still more characteristic oily-herbaceous and somewhat balsamic body and dryout. The sweetness yields to a more tobacco like and rich note, somewhat reminiscent of sage clary and neryl acetate. The freshness in the topnote is mainly due to terpenes and small amounts of citral and aliphatic aldehydes. Absence of the “oily” note is one of the most revealing features in poor or adulterated bergamot oils. The color of bergamot oil fades on ageing, particularly when the oil is exposed to daylight.One of the finest Top Note materials , the beauty of this oil is unimaginable. Can be used from 0.5% to 10%. An absolute beauty! It imparts freshness and diffusion to any fragrances or compound. Bases provided by BMV Fragrances can be used to create multiple accords as the perfumer likes for different applications.
Betel Oil is also known as “Pan Oil”. The essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the leaves of Piper Betle, the pepper family. The plant grows widely over the entire area between South Arabia and Southeast China. Production of oil takes place in India, China, Malaya and Pakistan. Betel Oil is yellow to brown, occasionally dark brown. It may discolor significantly during shipping if the container is an iron drum. The odor of the oil is distinctly phenolic, almost tar-like or “smoky”. There is a great deal of resemblance to the odor of mat6-leaves (or mate absolute) and to certain types of Chinese tea. The flavor of Betel Oil is bittet-acrid, warm and unpleasantly sharp, biting. The peculiar odor and flavor of this oil is due to its very high content of phenols which total about 75% of the oil. The most important of these phenols are: Chavibetol (also called betel phenol), Chavicol (which is para allyl phenol), Allyl Pyrocatechol (hydroxy chavicol), etc. Since Betel Oil is produced in Tongkin, it is not surprising that adulteration occasionally occurs with materials such as camphor oil. This addition is, however, clearly perceptible on an odor and flavor test or through a chemical analysis. Betel Oil is primarily used in the Far East in preparations similar to the betel chew, (i.e. areca nuts, wrapped in betel leaves and spiced with various pungent botanical, The betel leaves in this preparation represent the antiseptic part of the chew. BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. provides with true reconstituition with similar characteristics to that of the natural oil.
Its original habitat may have been along the Nile and other locations in East Africa. It spread to other locations , like the Indian Subcontinent and Thailand. The leaves are broadly rounded, 25–40 cm across, with a notch at the leaf stem. The flowers are 10–15 cm in diameter.Reports in the literature by persons unfamiliar with its actual growth and blooming cycle have suggested that the flowers open in the morning, rising to the surface of the water, then close and sink at dusk. In fact the flower buds rise to the surface over a period of two to three days and when ready open at approximately 9–9:30 am and close about 3 pm. The flowers and buds do not rise above the water in the morning, nor do they submerge at night. The flowers have pale bluish-white to sky-blue or mauve petals. Smoothly changing to a pale yellow in the centre of the flower.The flower is very frequently depicted in Egyptian art. It has been depicted in numerous stone carvings and paintings, including the walls of the famous temple of Karnak. It is frequently depicted in connection with "party scenes", dancing or in significant spiritual / magical rites such as the rite of passage into the afterlife. In modern culture blue lotus flowers are used to make various concoctions including blue lotus tea, wine and martinis. Recipes for such drinks involve steeping or soaking the petals, about 10–20 grams for up to three weeks. Blue lotus 'tea' is prepared by boiling the entire flowers for 10–20 minutes. Recent studies have shown Nymphaea caerulea to have mild psycho-active properties. It may have been used as a sacrament in ancient Egypt and certain ancient South American cultures. Eating Blue Lotus can act as a mild sedative. Nymphaea caerulea is distantly related to and possesses similar activity to Nelumbo nucifera the Sacred Lotus. Both Nymphaea caerulea and Nelumbo nucifera contain the alkaloids nuciferine and aporphine. The mildly sedating effects of Nymphaea caerulea makes it a likely candidate (among several) for the lotus plant eaten by the mythical Lotophagi in Homer's Odyssey.This lotus is used to produce perfumes since ancient times. It is also used in aromatherapy.Nymphaea caerulea, also known as the Blue Egyptian water lily an aquatic flower native to Egypt Nymphaea nouchali. Also known as the Red and blue water lily, Blue star water lily or Star lotus, an aquatic flower native to the Indian subcontinent Nelumbo nucifera also known as Indian Lotus. Sacred Lotus, Bean of India, or simply Lotus an aquatic flower native to tropical Asia and Queensland, Australia. Blue Lotus can even be used as such for a lovely White Flower Aroma or can be used in a blend alongwith Lyral , Lilial , Hydroxycitronellal , Hedione as a floralizer.
Bois de Rose Oil is steam distilled, occasionally water-distilled, from the chipped wood of Aniba Rosaeodora and possibly other species of the genus Burseraceae belonging to the laurel family. The tree is a tropical, medium-sized, wild-growing evergreen from the Amazon basin. The wood is collected in Brazil, Peru and in the French Guiana (“cayenne Rosewood”). In perfumery, the term Rosewood means only Bois de Rose of the above kind. The oil is used mainly as a starting material for the isolation of natural Linalool, of which the oil contains over 70%. The Iinalool in turn is converted into linalyl esters for many uses in perfumery and flavor work. Bois de Rose Oil is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of a refreshing, sweet-woody, somewhat floral-spicy odor. The topnote varies considerably with the origin and quality of the oil. It is usually somewhat camphoraceous-peppery, reminiscent of cineole and nutmeg terpenes. Bois de Rose Oil is also used as such (cleaned and free from water) in soap perfumes where the strong topnotes can be utilized to advantage. The isolated Linalool finds very extensive use in perfumery, e.g. of the floral types: lilac, muguet, neroli, sweet pea, etc. BMV Fragrances provides affordable Bois de Rose base and reconstitution for different applications.Due to Government Regulations natural oil is not steadily available , however Bois de Rose by BMV can effectively replace the natural oil and is also a very interesting product for future creations. Its soft floral odour forms a very nice bridge between the top notes and floral middle notes.
The blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) is a woody shrub in the family Grossulariaceae grown for its piquant berries. It is native to temperate parts of central and northern Europe and northern Asia where it prefers damp fertile soils and is widely cultivated both commercially and domestically. It is winter hardy but cold weather at flowering time during the spring reduces the size of the crop. Bunches of small, glossy black fruit develop along the stems in the summer and can be harvested by hand or by machine. The fruit is rich in vitamin C, various other nutrients, phytochemicals and antioxidants. Blackcurrants can be eaten raw but are usually cooked in a variety of sweet or savoury dishes. They are used to make jams, jellies and syrups and are grown commercially for the juice market. The fruit is also used in the preparation of alcoholic beverages and both fruit and foliage have uses in traditional medicine and the preparation of dyes.As a crop, the blackcurrant suffers from several pests and diseases. The most serious disease is reversion, caused by a virus transmitted by the blackcurrant gall mite. Another is white pine blister rust which alternates between two unrelated hosts, one in the Ribes genus (blackcurrant included) and the other a White pine. This fungus caused damage to forests when the fruit was first introduced into North America, where the native white pines have no genetic resistance to the disease. As a result, the blackcurrant has for most of the 20th century been subject to restrictions in parts of the United States as a disease vector. The effectiveness of these restrictions is questionable, since other Ribes species also host the disease and are native to North America.Breeding is being undertaken in Europe and New Zealand to produce fruit with better eating qualities and bushes with greater hardiness and disease resistance.On a garden scale, the berries should be picked when dry and ripe. Commercially, most harvesting is done mechanically by straddle harvesters.These move continually down the rows, straddling a row of bushes, shaking the branches and stripping off the fruit. The blackcurrants are placed into half tonne bins and to minimise stoppage time, some machines have cross conveyors which direct the fruit into continuously moving trailers in the adjoining row. A modern machine can pick up to fifty tonnes of blackcurrants in a day using only one operator and two tractor drivers. For culinary use, the fruit is usually cooked with sugar to produce a purée, which can then be passed through muslin to separate the juice. Blackcurrants are a common ingredient of Rødgrød, a popular kissel-like dessert in North German and Danish cuisines. Blackcurrants are also used in savoury cooking because their astringency creates added flavour in many sauces, meat and other dishes and they are included in some unusual combinations of foods. They can be added to tomato and mint to make a salad, used to accompany roast or grilled lamb, used to accompany seafood and shellfish, used as a dipping sauce at barbecues, blended with mayonnaise, used to invigorate bananas and other tropical fruits, combined with dark chocolate or added to mincemeat in traditional mince pies at Christmas.Japan imports $3.6 million of New Zealand blackcurrants for uses as dietary supplements, snacks, functional food products and as quick-frozen (IQF) produce for culinary production as jams, jellies or preserves.
Castoreum is the exudate from the castor sacs of the mature North American Beaver and the European Beaver within the zoological realm. Castoreum is derived from the Greek word Kastor meaning beaver. Castoreum is obtained from the animal source Caster Canadensis. The castor sacs are not true glands (endocrine or exocrine) on a cellular level, hence references to these structures as preputial glands or castor glands are misnomers. Castor sacs are a type of scent gland.Castoreum is mentioned in the works of the ancient commentators who mistakenly believed this musky substance is derived from the beaver’s testicles. In his tales, Aesop, the prominent Greek fabulist, retells the widespread hunter’s fallacy that cornered beaver bites off its own testicles, only to throw them to the hunter and so escape the death.And beavers were not hunted for their testicles but for their meat and waterproof fur, which is used to make coats. For this reason, castoreum was even used as an aphrodisiac. But now one company in Canada is farming beavers for Fur Coats and Castoreum is a by product. This now perhaps is the only Animal Product , legally available and allowed for use.There are at least twenty-four compounds known to be constituents of beaver castoreum. Some of these have pheromonal activity. These are the phenols,4-ethylphenol and 1,2-dihydroxybenzene (catechol) and the ketones acetophenone and 3-hydroxyacetophenone. Five additional compounds noted are 4-methyl-1,2-dihydroxybenzene (4-methylcatechol), 4-methoxyacetophenone, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, salicylaldehyde, and 3-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other neutral compounds are oxygen-containing monoterpenes such as 6-methyl-l-heptanol, 4,6-dimethyl-l-heptanol, isopinocamphone, pinocamphone, two linalool oxides and their acetates. Other compounds are: benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, borneol, o-cresol, 4-(4'-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone, hydroquinone, phenol. All those compounds are gathered from plant food. It also contains Nupharamine alkaloids and castoramine and cis-cyclohexane-1,2-diol.Acute toxicity studies in animals indicate that castoreum extract is nontoxic by both oral and dermal routes of administration and is not irritating or phototoxic to skin. Skin sensitization has not been observed in human subject tests. Castoreum extract possesses weak antibacterial activity. A long historical use of castoreum extract as a flavoring and fragrance ingredient has resulted in no reports of human adverse reactions. On the basis of this information, low-level, long-term exposure to castoreum extract does not pose a health risk. The objective of this review was to evaluate the safety-in-use of castoreum extract as a food ingredient.Castoreum is more liberally applied to denote the resinoid extract resulting from the dried and alcohol tinctured beaver castor. The dried beaver castor sacs are generally aged for two or more years to mellow and for their raw harshness to dissipate. It is used extensively in perfumery. It’s very pungent, strong animalic note makes it an interesting item in men’s perfume, fourgeres, chypres, oriental basis leather notes. The warm animal sweet leathery note of castoreum helps the accords achieve sensuality.Bases offered by BMV Fragrances help to create magical fragrances and accords with sensuality and class.