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Ambergris, a solid waxy substance originating in the intestine of the sperm whale (Physeter catodon). In Eastern cultures ambergris is used for medicines and potions and as a spice; in the West it was used to stabilize the scent of fine perfumes. Ambergris floats and washes ashore most frequently on the coasts of China, Japan, Africa, and the Americas and on tropical islands such as the Bahamas. Because it was picked up as drift along the shores of the North Sea, ambergris was likened to the amber of the same region, and its name is derived from the French words for “gray amber.” Fresh ambergris is black and soft and has a disagreeable odour. When exposed to sun, air, and seawater, however, it hardens and fades to a light gray or yellow, developing a subtle and pleasant fragrance in the process. Chemically, ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol. Ambergris was commonly ground into a powder and dissolved in dilute alcohol. Rarely used today due to trade restrictions, its unique musky character added a long-lasting bouquet to the scent of essential flower oils, but, more important, ambergris was a fixative that prevented fragrance from evaporating. Some chemical components of ambergris are now produced synthetically. Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 g (~½ oz) to 50 kg (110 pounds) or more. When initially expelled by or removed from the whale, the fatty precursor of ambergris is pale white in color (sometimes streaked with black), soft, with a strong fecal smell. Following months to years of photo degradation and oxidation in the ocean, this precursor gradually hardens, developing a dark grey or black color, a crusty and waxy texture, and a peculiar odor that is at once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic. Its smell has been generally described as a vastly richer and smoother version of isopropanol without its stinging harshness. In this developed condition, ambergris has aspecific gravity ranging from 0.780 to 0.926. It melts at about 62 °C to a fatty, yellow resinous liquid; and at 100 °C (212 °F) it is volatilized into a white vapor. It is soluble in ether, and in volatile and fixed oils. It has been developed after extensive research and analysis of the natural product which is no longer available. Ambergris is relatively nonreactive to acid. White crystals of a substance called ambrein can be separated from ambergris by heating raw ambergris in alcohol, then allowing the resulting solution to cool. Breakdown of the relatively scentless ambrein through oxidation results in the formation of ambrox and ambrinol, which are the main odour components of ambergris. The product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Is known as Ambergris Maui. It is a very close reproduction of the Natural Ambergris and has been developed to offer perfumers a ready to use material with NO restrictions. A 10% dilution in DPG can be used at 0.1% level in all kinds of Fancy Accords for exceptional diffusion. For Oriental Accords especially for the middle east upto 1% can be used to boost the Agarwood effect.

The botanical name of Ambrette is Hibiscus abelmoschus L. It is a tropical hibiscus with beautiful bright yellow flowers, and its distinctive seed pods look so similar to okra that the plant is sometimes referred to as “musk okra” or “ornamental okra.” Ambrette is native to India, where it is known as Mushkdana or Kasturi Bhendi. The plant grows to just over a meter in height and is an evergreen shrub. When mature the pods split open to reveal kidney-shaped seeds that have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance. Ambrette has long been appreciated in perfumery as one of the few plant oils that contains natural musk compounds, including one named after the plant, ambrettolide. Many synthetic musks are cooked up in laboratories these days, but for people who care about natural products, there is no substitute for the natural. Ambrette oil is expensive and rare because so much work goes into creating it. Unlike some oil crops where the plant leaves are used, Ambrette oil is made only from seeds, which weigh very little and must be carefully gathered. The seeds represent a tiny fraction of the biomass of the entire plant, and only a very small yield of essential oil is achieved -- 0.2% to 0.6% of the total weight of the seeds. In natural perfumery, it can be used in a wide range of compositions including musk bases, amber accords, high class florals, oriental bouquets, incense perfumes, fougere, and new mown hay. Ambrette oil is pale yellow, with an enchanting aroma described variously as sweet, rich, warm musky, fatty and nutty, with floral overtones. After a short period of aging, more complex notes can emerge, such as wine, brandy, fruit, and tobacco. Like all musks, Ambrette is a perfumery base note. It is a powerful, tenacious scent. The main application of Ambrette seed oil is in Perfumes, Tobacco flavoring, Liqueurs and some Fruit flavours. It imparts an exalting effect to fragrance and lends a unique bouquet. However, fragrances need to be matured for about 2-3 weeks for Ambrette seed to show it's beauty. Ambrette seed super is the special product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Ambrette seed super is meant to be a replacement for the natural product and is available at a fraction of the cost. It has a very persistent Floral - Musky odour and can be used in almost all types of fragrances. At 0.1% level it has the ability to enhance odour perception for all accords. Perfumes especially that are worn on the skin, Ambrette seed super will impart volume and sensuality.

Copaiba Balsam is a natural oleoresin which occurs as a physiological product in various Copaifera species. These are large trees which grow wild in the northeastern and central South America. The chief producer is Brazil, and smaller amounts come from Venezuela, British Guiana, Surinam and Colombia. The oleoresin flows abundantly from large cavities in the trunks of these trees when holes are drilled for collection of the copaiba “balsam” It is an important source of the wood known as keruing and is often used in the plywood industry.Balsam is the resinous exudate from living trees and shrubs. Balsam is a solution of plant-specific resins in plant-specific solvents (essential oils).Such resins can include resin acids, esters or alcohols. The exudate is a mobile to highly viscous liquid and often contains crystallized resin particles. Over time and as a result of other influences the exudate loses its liquidizing components or gets chemically converted into a solid material(by auto oxidation). Resins are difficult to classify because of their amorphous nature. Even the term "resin" is not sharply defined.Plant resins are sometimes classified as mixtures with other plant constituents. For example as pure resins (guaiac, hashish) gum-resins (containing gums/polysaccharides), oleo-gum-resins (a mixture of gums, resins and essential oils).Oleo-resins (a mixture of resins and essential oils, e. g. capsicum, ginger and aspidinol). Balsams (resinous mixtures that contain cinnamic and/or benzoic acid or their esters) and glycoresins (podophyllin, jalap, kava kava). The perfume extracted from the sap of the tree Commiphora opobalsamum is designated in the Bible by various names: bosem, besem, ?ori, nataf, and in rabbinic literature, kataf, balsam, appobalsamon, afarsemon. It was the only tropical, and the most expensive spice grown in Israel.It was known to Pliny as obalsamum.Apparently the balsam of the Bible also signifies some remedy compounded of balsam sap and other ingredients.The Balm of Gilead is mentioned as having healing properties. Balsam was an ingredient of the incense (ketoret) burned in the Tabernacle.The Egyptian town of Ain Shams was renowned for its balsam-garden, which was cultivated under the supervision of the government.During the Middle Ages the balsam-tree is said to have grown only here, though formerly it had also been a native plant in Syria. According to a Coptic tradition known also by the Muslims.It was in the spring of Ayn Shams that Mary the mother of Jesus, washed the clothes of the latter on her way back to Palestine after her flight to Egypt. From that time onwards the spring was beneficient. During the Middle Ages balsam-trees could only produce their precious secretion on land watered by it.Balsam is also known as Balsam of Mecca. At present the tree Commiphora opobalsamum grows wild in the valley of Mecca where it is called beshem. Many strains of this species are found. Some in Somalia and Yemen. As a perfume it is hardly used today. It serves in the Orient as a healing agent for wounds and as an antidote to snakebite and the sting of scorpions.In fragrances it has good application for woody blends , it especially blends very well with Sandalwood Oil , Patchouli. Can be used upto 10% levels for Oriental Bends.

Balsam Peru is a resinous substance that has been used in the perfume and incense industry for many centuries. It is extracted from the trunk of the Myroxylon balsamum tree, which is native to Central and South America. The sap of the tree is harvested by making incisions in the bark, allowing the resin to flow out naturally. This process does not harm the tree and is therefore considered a sustainable harvesting method. Balsam Peru has a warm, sweet, and balsamic odor, which is why it is commonly used in perfumery. It is a popular ingredient in oriental and woody fragrances, as well as in incense blends. Its versatility also makes it a valuable addition in the formulation of toiletries such as soaps and shampoos. The areas of extraction for Balsam Peru are primarily in the Central and South American regions, including countries such as El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras. The absolute extracted from the resinoid by alcohol extraction is known as Balsam Peru Absolute, which is a highly concentrated form of the resin. Resinoid Peru is another product derived from the resin, obtained through solvent extraction. It is known for its strong, tenacious odor and is often used in the composition of soaps, candles, and detergents. In conclusion, Balsam Peru, Balsam Peru Absolute, and Resinoid Peru are highly valued ingredients in the perfume and incense industry for their warm and balsamic aroma. The sustainable extraction methods used to obtain these products ensure they continue to be a valuable and ethical source of fragrant materials. Balsam Peru Absolute blends exceedingly well with cinnamic alcohol, heliotropine, ionones, isoeugenol, Iinalool, musks, petitgrain oil, patchouli, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, dimethyl phenylethyl carbinol, labdanum products, etc. in floral bases (honeysuckle, tuberose, Iongoza, etc.), Oriental bases, “powder” type perfumes and numerous types of sweet and heavy perfumes. There are number of chemicals available in Balsam Peru like : alpha-muurolene, benzyl-benzoate, beta-elemene,alpha-copaene, alpha-curcumene, benzyl-cinnamate, benzyl-isoferulate, benzaldehyde, benzoic, benzoic-acids, cadalene, benzyl-ferulate, Alpha-bourbonene, beta-bourbonene, alpha-cadinene, alpha-calacorene, alpha-pinene, caryophyllene, benzyl-alcohol, calamenene.

Balsam Tolu is a recent (non-fossil) resin that originates from South America (Columbia, Peru, Venezuela), similar to Balsam of Peru. It is tapped from the living trunks of Myroxylon toluiferum. It is a brownish, sticky, semisolid mass. An essential oil is also distilled from the balsam. The balsam contains a fairly large amount of esters of benzoic and cinnamic acid (benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate). In 1841, Henri Étienne Sainte-Claire Deville isolated toluene by the dry distillation of tolu balsam. The resin, as well as the leaves and fruit, have been traditionally used by the people of Central America and South America to relieve coughs and asthma, and to treat wounds. Its name comes from Tolú (singular); Tolúes (plural). The name of the native precolumbian people that used to be the inhabitants at the same place where now is located Tolu, a small town and municipality in Sucre Department, northern Colombia (South America) by the Caribbean sea. Tolues were the first reported to be using this resin in early Spanish chronicles. The resin of this tree is what is most valuable and is retrieved in the same fashion that one collects the valuable properties from a rubber tree by tapping into it. The gummy resin that comes from the tree is then turned into balsam. Today, the main exporters of Balsam of Tolu are El Salvador, Columbia, and Venezuela. Tolu balsam is comprised of 3/4 fragrant resinous compound, containing approximately 15% free cinnamic acid and benzoic acid and about 40% of the benzyl and related esters of these free acids. A volatile oil is present in small amounts (from 1.5% to 7%). Traces of styrene, coumarin and vanillin are also present. In earlier times it was tribal groups from Mexico and Central America that used the leaves of Balsam of Tolu to treat such common ailments as external wounds, asthma, colds, flu, and arthritis. Some native Indians used the bark in a powered form as an underarm deodorant while others found it best for lung and cold ailments. Those who originated in the rainforest tribes used Balsam of Tolu quite frequently for many medicinal purposes such as Abscesses, Asthma, Bronchitis, Catarrh and Diarrhoea. Resinoid Tolu is a very good Fixative for Vanilla and Musks. Imparting a persistent sweet vanillic odour.

The bay tree is a popular evergreen shrub suitable for containers or growing in the ground. Kept neatly clipped, the dark-green foliage can create stunning formal shapes that make an entrance or look perfect on a patio. Bay leaves can be used fresh or dried and are used in cooking to give a fragrant flavour to soups, stews and other dishes.Bay can be grown in a number of ways. It thrives in containers, especially if watered regularly and positioned in a sheltered spot. In the garden, bay trees grow as a large bushy shrub or small tree, reaching a height of 7.5m (23ft) or more. Bay can also be turned into topiary (trees or shrubs cut or trained into specified shapes) specimens which can be shaped into pyramid, ball or "lollipop" standards, and some have ornately plaited or spirally trained stems.Bay needs a well-drained soil and a sheltered sunny or part-shady position. Taste and Aroma : If eaten whole, bay leaves are pungent and have a sharp, bitter taste. As with many spices and flavorings, the fragrance of the bay leaf is more noticeable than its taste. When dried, the fragrance is herbal, slightly floral, and somewhat similar to oregano and thyme. Myrcene, which is a component of many essential oils used in perfumery, can be extracted from the bay leaf. They also contain the essential oil eugenol. Uses : Ancient Greeks were using the leaves of Bay for flavoring. Bay leaves work as a fixture in the cooking of several Europian cuisines specialy in the Americas as well as of the Mediterranean.Commonly they are used in Meat, Soups, Stews, Seafood, vegitable dishes and Sauces. Many French classic dishes are also flavoured by the leaves of Bay. Generaly the leaves are used as a whole ( some times are used in a bouquet garni) and removed before serving ( they can be abrasive in the digestive tract). Thai cuisine employs bay leaf (Thai name bai kra wan) in a few Arab-influenced dishes, notably massaman curry. Bay (laurel) leaves are frequently packaged as tejpatta (the Hindi term for Indian bay leaf), creating confusion between the two herbs. In the Philippines, dried bay laurel leaves are added as a spice in the Filipino dish Adobo.Bay leaves can also be crushed or ground before cooking. Crushed bay leaves impart more of their desired fragrance than whole leaves, but are more difficult to remove, and thus they are often used in a muslin bag or tea infuser. Ground bay laurel may be substituted for whole leaves, and does not need to be removed, but it is much stronger due to the increased surface area and in some dishes the texture may not be desirable. Bay leaves can also be used scattered in a pantry to repel meal moths, roaches, mice, and silverfish.Bay leaves have been used in entomology as the active ingredient in killing jars. The crushed, fresh, young leaves are put into the jar under a layer of pape. The vapors they release kill insects slowly but effectively, and keep the specimens relaxed and easy to mount. The leaves discourage the growth of molds.The crushed, fresh, young leaves are put into the jar under a layer of pape. In indian and Pakistani cuisines, Bay laurel leaves are sometime used in place of Indian Bay leaf, although they have the different flavors.Most often they are used in rice dishes like Biryani as an ingredient of Garam Masala.

Bergamot orange (Citrus bergamia) is a small, roughly pear-shaped citrus fruit, which grows on small trees known as bergamots. It is a cross between pear lemon and Seville orange or grapefruit. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the Ioanion, coastal region of the province of Reggio Calabria, South Italy. Where the soil and climatic conditions are very favourable for its cultivation.It is also cultivated in Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil.But in no other part of the world does it fructify with the same yield and quality of essence. Bergamot is named after Italian city of Bergamo, in which its oil was first sold. It has become a symbol of the entire region and city.This fruit is not edible and is cultivated for production of its essential oil.The essential oil of bergamot is expressed from the ripe fruit peel and is used extensively in perfumery for its sweet freshness.Bergamot oil is also used for flavouring purposes e.g. Earl Grey tea and the so called althea drops, candy-making. It is also used in aromatherapy to treat depression and also as a digestive aid. Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy note. Bergamot oil is used in production of both female and male perfumes and in most fragrance groups, mainly in top notes.It was a component of the original Eau de Cologne developed in Germany in the 17th century and today is used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes.Bergamot Oil is a green or olive green, mobile liquid of extremely rich, sweet-fruity initial odor. Although the characteristics of this topnote remain perceptible in good oils, it is followed by a still more characteristic oily-herbaceous and somewhat balsamic body and dryout. The sweetness yields to a more tobacco like and rich note, somewhat reminiscent of sage clary and neryl acetate. The freshness in the topnote is mainly due to terpenes and small amounts of citral and aliphatic aldehydes. Absence of the “oily” note is one of the most revealing features in poor or adulterated bergamot oils. The color of bergamot oil fades on ageing, particularly when the oil is exposed to daylight.One of the finest Top Note materials , the beauty of this oil is unimaginable. Can be used from 0.5% to 10%. An absolute beauty! It imparts freshness and diffusion to any fragrances or compound.BMV Fragrances offers a range of true reconstitutions for different applications and suitability.

The betel (Piper betle) is the leaf of a vine belonging to the Piperaceae family, which includes pepper and kava. It is valued both as a mild stimulant and for its medicinal properties. Betel leaf is mostly consumed in Asia. Elsewhere in the world it is used by by some Asian emigrants as betel quid or paan with or without tobacco. In an addictive psycho-stimulating and euphoria-inducing formulation with adverse health effects.Betel is notable for staining the teeth of regular users. The betel plant is an evergreen and perennial creeper, with glossy heart-shaped leaves and white catkin. The betel plant originated from South and South East Asia. The betel leaf is cultivated in most of South and Southeast Asia. Since it is a creeper, it needs a compatible tree or a long pole for support. Betel requires high land and especially fertile soil. Waterlogged, saline and alkali soils are unsuitable for its cultivation.Betel leaf is the leaf of a kind of creeper or climbing plant. It is a glossy, oval leaf. The plant’s main areas of consumption, according to experts, are mainly limited to the areas of its origin in Southeast Asia, where the plant is called Paan in regional languages. The growing of the Betel plant provides an interesting case study for abnormal agriculture. It needs physical support in order to grow since like ivy it is a creeping vine. In addition excessively alkaline soils are not good for this plant. Excessive moisture will make its growth difficult.Farmers in the traditional regions that support the Betel plant use strategies like terracing and trellises to support the plant as well as specific indigenous fertilizers for promoting its growth. A twining vine part of the pepper family, whose leaves yield an aromatic essential oil rich in powerfully antiseptic phenols. The leaves are also rich in starch, sugars and tannins. The cultivation of this creeper needs a lot of care and attention. Dryness and exposure to the sun for too long a period can harm and plant. The heart-shaped leaves have distinct pleasant aroma and are commonly chewed alone or with other plant materials. Betel Leaf is almost entirely used in India , it has no known use in French Perfumery. In mouth freshners it can impart a very natural aroma and taste of Betel Leaf.

Black pepper (Piper nigrum) is a flowering vine in the family Piperaceae, cultivated for its fruit. Which is usually dried and used as a spice and seasoning. The fruit known as a peppercorn when dried is approximately 5 millimetres (0.20 in) in diameter, dark red when fully mature and like all drupes contains a single seed.Peppercorns and the ground pepper derived from them may be described simply as pepper or more precisely as black pepper (cooked and dried unripe fruit). Green pepper (dried unripe fruit) and white pepper (unripe fruit seeds). Black pepper is native to south India and is extensively cultivated there and elsewhere in tropical regions. Currently Vietnam is the world's largest producer and exporter of pepper. Producing 34% of the world's Piper nigrum crop as of 2008.Dried ground pepper has been used since antiquity for both its flavor and as a medicine. Black pepper is the world's most traded spice. It is one of the most common spices added to European cuisine and its descendants. The spiciness of black pepper is due to the chemical piperine, not to be confused with the capsaicin that gives fleshy peppers theirs.The drupes are dried in the sun or by machine for several days. During which the pepper around the seed shrinks and darkens into a thin, wrinkled black layer. Once dried, the spice is called black peppercorn. On some estates, the berries are separated from the stem by hand and then sun-dried without the boiling process. Once the peppercorns are dried, pepper spirit & oil can be extracted from the berries by crushing them.Pepper spirit is used in many medicinal and beauty products. Pepper oil is also used as an ayurvedic massage oil and used in certain beauty and herbal treatments. The pepper plant is a perennial woody vine growing up to 4 metres (13 ft) in height on supporting trees, poles, or trellises. It is a spreading vine, rooting readily where trailing stems touch the ground. The leaves are alternate, entire, 5 to 10 cm long and 3 to 6 cm across. The flowers are small, produced on pendulous spikes 4 to 8 cm long at the leaf nodes, the spikes lengthening up to 7 to 15 cm as the fruit matures. The roots are covered in leaf mulch and manure and the shoots are trimmed twice a year.On dry soils the young plants require watering every other day during the dry season for the first three years. The plants bear fruit from the fourth or fifth year, and typically continue to bear fruit for seven years. The cuttings are usually cultivars, selected both for yield and quality of fruit. The oil of Black Pepper is radiant spicy citrus. Gives excellent effect in Men’s fragrances and also very useful for twisting Citrus and Aldehydic notes. It somehow smooths the chemicalish effect of Aldehydes. However nowadays perfumers all over the world prefer Pink Pepper oil , which is odourwise much superior. But for Flavour purposes Black Pepper has more punch and bite.

Bois de Rose Oil is steam distilled, occasionally water-distilled, from the chipped wood of Aniba Rosaeodora and possibly other species of the genus Burseraceae belonging to the laurel family.The tree is a tropical, medium-sized, wild-growing evergreen from the Amazon basin. The wood is collected in Brazil, Peru and in the French Guiana (“cayenne Rosewood”). In perfumery, the term Rosewood means only Bois de Rose of the above kind. The oil is used mainly as a starting material for the isolation of natural Linalool, of which the oil contains over 70%. The Iinalool in turn is converted into linalyl esters for many uses in perfumery and flavor work.Bois de Rose Oil is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of a refreshing, sweet-woody, somewhat floral-spicy odor. The topnote varies considerably with the origin and quality of the oil. It is usually somewhat camphoraceous-peppery, reminiscent of cineole and nutmeg terpenes. Bois de Rose Oil is also used as such (cleaned and free from water) in soap perfumes where the strong topnotes can be utilized to advantage. The isolated Linalool finds very extensive use in perfumery, e.g. of the floral types: lilac, muguet, neroli, sweet pea, etc.BMV Fragrances provides affordable Bois de Rose base and reconstitution for different applications.Due to Government Regulations natural oil is not steadily available , however Bois de Rose by BMV can effectively replace the natural oil and is also a very interesting product for future creations. Its soft floral odour forms a very nice bridge between the top notes and floral middle notes.

BOTANICAL NAME- Elletaria Cardamomum.Cardamom refers to several plants of the similar genera Elettaria and Amomum in the ginger family Zingiberaceae. Both genera are native to India, Pakistan, Nepal, and Bhutan.They are recognised by their small seed pods, triangular in cross-section and spindle-shaped. With a thin, papery, outer shell and small black seeds.Guatemala is the biggest producer and exporter of cardamom in the world, followed by India. Some other countries such as Sri Lanka have also begun to cultivate it. Elettaria pods are light green, while Amomum pods are larger and dark brown.It is the world's third-most expensive spice by weight. Outstripped in market value only by saffron and vanilla.The word "cardamom" is derived from the Latin cardamomum a compound of kardamon which was the name for a kind of an Indian spice plant.From the corresponding Dravidian root all modern names of cardamom in the major Dravidian languages are directly derived. There are three natural varieties of green cardamom plant.Malabar (Nadan/native) as the name suggests is the native variety of Kerala. These plants have panicles which grow horizontally along the ground.Mysore, as the name suggests is a native variety of Karnataka.These plants have panicles which grow vertically upwards.The Mysore variety has however declined in the past few decades owing to the emergence of the more resistant and better yielding 'Green Gold' variety.Which is the most common form of cardamom harvested in Kerala.Vazhuka is a naturally occurring hybrid between Malabar and Mysore varieties and the panicles grow neither vertically nor horizontally.The oil extracted from freshly dried cardamom through the steam distillation procedure is known to be used for various purposes. The main consumption is by the Flavour Industry especially the Pan Masala a kind of a mouth freshner, Industry.Some of the main constituents of Cardamom Oil are pinene, methyl eugenol, sabinene, geraniol, linalyl acetate, myrcene, nerol, phellandrene, citronellol, linalool, limonene, a-terpineol acetate, 1, 8-cineole, terpinene, a-terpineol, p-cymene, terpinen-4-oil, terpinolene, and trans-nerolidol. It has numerous benefits for our health, skin and hair and is extensively admired for its use in aromatherapy. Cardamom Oil is a very effective Carminative.Cardamom Oil has been used in some exquisite fragrances , but only in very small amounts. Gives a sparkling top note in combination with Aldehydes and Citrus Oils.

Dianthus caryophyllus, carnation or clove pink, is a species of Dianthus. It is probably native to the Mediterranean region but its exact range is unknown due to extensive cultivation for the last 2,000 years. It is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves are glaucous greyish green to blue-green, slender, up to 15 cm long. The flowers are produced singly or up to five together in a cyme; they are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly scented. The original natural flower colour is bright pinkish-purple. But cultivars of other colours, including red, white, yellow and green, have been developed. Some fragrance-less carnation cultivars are often used as boutonnieres for men. Carnations were mentioned in Greek literature 2,000 years ago. "Dianthus" was coined by Greek botanist Theophrastus. It is derived from the Greek words for divine ("dios") and flower ("anthos"). Some scholars believe that the name "carnation" comes from "coronation" or "corone" (flower garlands). It was one of the flowers used in Greek ceremonial crowns. Others think the name stems from the Latin "caro" (genitive "carnis") (flesh), which refers to the original colour of the flower. Incarnatio (incarnation), which refers to the incarnation of God made flesh. The legend that explains the name is that Diana the Goddess came upon the shepherd boy and took a liking to him. But the boy, for some reason, turned her down. Diana ripped out his eyes and threw them to the ground where they sprouted into the Dianthus flower.

The carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, usually orange in colour, though purple, black, red, white, and yellow varieties exist. It has a crisp texture when fresh. The most commonly eaten part of a carrot is a taproot, although the greens are sometimes eaten as well. It is a domesticated form of the wild carrot Daucus carota, native to Europe and southwestern Asia. The domestic carrot has been selectively bred for its greatly enlarged and more palatable, less woody-textured edible taproot. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) reports that world production of carrots and turnips. The word is first recorded in English around 1530 and was borrowed from Middle French carotte, itself from Late Latin carota, from Greek ?a??t?? karoton, originally from the Indo-European root *ker- (horn), due to its horn-like shape. In Old English, carrots (typically white at the time) were not clearly distinguished from parsnips.Carrot seed oil is far removed from the ubiquitous orange vegetable and should not be mistaken for the cheaper macerated carrot oil. This humble essential oil is packed with natural healing properties, which have been used since time immemorial by ancient Greeks and Indians. Learn more about carrot seed oil and how to get the most out of this plant oil. Carrot seed oil is derived from the dried seeds of the wild carrot plant (Daucus carota) of the Apiaceae or Umbelliferae family. Its plant source is an annual or biennial plant with hairy leaves and umbels of white lacy flowers and purple centers. Also popularly called wild Queen Anne's lace, its native origins can be traced back to Egypt, France, and India. Carrot seed oil has a viscous consistency, a yellowish brown color,2 and a distinct woody, earthy, and root-like fragrance. Carrot Seed Essential Oil benefits in aromatherapy is one of the most powerful detoxifiers and skin rejuvenators in comparison to all the other essential oils. Aromatic benefits are calming, restorative, spiritual, and supportive.

A cassia plant is a legume shrub or tree in the bean family Fabaceae. This plant is native to Vietnam, southern china and Laos. It is closely related to the cinnamon plant. But it has a less delicate smell and flavour.Cassia is a genus of flowering plants in the legume family Fabaceae and the subfamily Caesalpinioideae. Species are known commonly as cassias. Cassia is also the English common name of some species in the genus Cinnamomum of the family Lauraceae. Many species of genus Senna were previously included in Cassia. Cassia now generally includes the largest species of the legume subtribe Cassiinae. Usually mid-sized trees.Cassia species occur in a range of climates. Some can be utilized widely as ornamental plants. They have been used in reforestation projects and species from desert climates can be used to prevent desertification. Cassia species are used as food plants by the caterpillars of many lepidopteran taxa. For example - the skipper Astraptes fulgerator and the pierids Catopsilia pomona and C. pyranthe are all seen on Cassia fistula. The latter utilizes several other cassias as well. The plant pathogenic viruses cassia yellow blotch bromovirus and cassia yellow spot potyvirus were first described from Cassia. Because the name Cassia is not precise it is sometimes difficult to know what is meant by references to plants known as "cassias". Cassia gum is made from Senna obtusifolia, a species formerly included in genus Cassia. Genera Cassia and Senna are both known in systems of traditional medicine. Cassia fistula is used in Ayurvedic medicine. There are hundreds of Cassia species, but it is unclear just how many. One estimate stands at 692. The genus was a wastebasket taxon for a long time, used to classify plants that did not fit well anywhere else. Over 1000 species have belonged to Cassia over the years. Cassia has a much broader application in Flavours than Fragrances. However recently a trend of Cinnamon (Cassia Like) odours for Candles has emerged. But the most important thing about Cassia or Cinnamon is that it reminds everybody of Christmas Cookies flavoured with this material.

Castoreum is the exudate from the castor sacs of the mature North American Beaver and the European Beaver within the zoological realm. Castoreum is derived from the Greek word Kastor meaning beaver. Castoreum is obtained from the animal source Caster Canadensis. The castor sacs are not true glands (endocrine or exocrine) on a cellular level, hence references to these structures as preputial glands or castor glands are misnomers. Castor sacs are a type of scent gland.Castoreum is mentioned in the works of the ancient commentators who mistakenly believed this musky substance is derived from the beaver’s testicles. In his tales, Aesop, the prominent Greek fabulist, retells the widespread hunter’s fallacy that cornered beaver bites off its own testicles, only to throw them to the hunter and so escape the death.And beavers were not hunted for their testicles but for their meat and waterproof fur, which is used to make coats. For this reason, castoreum was even used as an aphrodisiac. But now one company in Canada is farming beavers for Fur Coats and Castoreum is a by product. This now perhaps is the only Animal Product , legally available and allowed for use.There are at least twenty-four compounds known to be constituents of beaver castoreum. Some of these have pheromonal activity. These are the phenols,4-ethylphenol and 1,2-dihydroxybenzene (catechol) and the ketones acetophenone and 3-hydroxyacetophenone. Five additional compounds noted are 4-methyl-1,2-dihydroxybenzene (4-methylcatechol), 4-methoxyacetophenone, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, salicylaldehyde, and 3-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other neutral compounds are oxygen-containing monoterpenes such as 6-methyl-l-heptanol, 4,6-dimethyl-l-heptanol, isopinocamphone, pinocamphone, two linalool oxides and their acetates. Other compounds are: benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, borneol, o-cresol, 4-(4'-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone, hydroquinone, phenol. All those compounds are gathered from plant food. It also contains Nupharamine alkaloids and castoramine and cis-cyclohexane-1,2-diol.Acute toxicity studies in animals indicate that castoreum extract is nontoxic by both oral and dermal routes of administration and is not irritating or phototoxic to skin. Skin sensitization has not been observed in human subject tests. Castoreum extract possesses weak antibacterial activity. A long historical use of castoreum extract as a flavoring and fragrance ingredient has resulted in no reports of human adverse reactions. On the basis of this information, low-level, long-term exposure to castoreum extract does not pose a health risk. The objective of this review was to evaluate the safety-in-use of castoreum extract as a food ingredient.Castoreum is more liberally applied to denote the resinoid extract resulting from the dried and alcohol tinctured beaver castor. The dried beaver castor sacs are generally aged for two or more years to mellow and for their raw harshness to dissipate. It is used extensively in perfumery. It’s very pungent, strong animalic note makes it an interesting item in men’s perfume, fourgeres, chypres, oriental basis leather notes. The warm animal sweet leathery note of castoreum helps the accords achieve sensuality.BMV Fragrances offers reconstitutions to create magical fragrances and accords with sensuality and class.

Celery Seed Essential Oil is spicy-warm seedy green soup celery feugreek cumin sweet lavender herb-floral tuberose orris floral vegetable spice bread snacks vegetable-drinks sauces. Celeryseed Essential Oil has antioxidant, antiseptic (urinary), anti-rheumatic, antispasmodic, aperitif, digestive diuretic, depurative & stomachic properties. It can be used in sedative, tonic and carminative preparations as well as fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics, detergents and perfumes. Known by the botanical name Apium graveolens, Celery Seed Essential Oil is derived from the seed part of the plant through steam distillation method. Celery is a biennial plant with a grooved, fleshy, erect stalk & skinny pennant leaves. The extract derived is Yellowish brown liquid. celery seed fresh herbal green phenolic woody: aromatic, spicy Flavor: aromatic, spicy, vegetable aldehydic ambrene celery diffusion fern fougere floral forest pine forest lavender maple mimosa natural orris iris raspberry soup spice sweet pea topnotes tuberose vegetable vetiver woody celeryapium graveolens : Romans and Greeks grew celery for medicinal purposes. The Greeks also made a celery wine. Ayurvedic physicians in India have used celery seeds for thousands of uears for water retention, indigestion and joint issues. Celery seeds are commonly used in Europe for gout as well as muscle and jointpains. Celery seed oil is derived from the seed, and is found in foods, perfumes, and soaps. This lovely essential oil has a history of medical uses for joint pain, indigestion, urinary problems, and to regulate menstruation. Documented use in aromatherapy as an analgesic, antiarthritic, anticonvulsive, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, carminative, cholagogue, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, hepatic, hypotensor, nervine, sedative, stimulant (uterine) stomachic, tonic, vulnerary.* Celery seed essential oil can be used in an aroma lamp, bath, inhaler, lightbulb ring, massage, or mist spray. Some of the practical uses of celery seed oil is reduction in appearance of cellulite, cooling, calming and relaxing. See our references at the bottom of this page for additional information. *This statement has not been evaluated by the FDA and is not intended to diagnose, treat, or prevent any disease. Dilute concentrate with carrier oil if applied to skin. If diffusing or in aroma lamp, it can be burned as a concentrate. For all other uses, dilute with a carrier oil such as jojoba, grapeseed, olive, or almond oil prior to use. Please consult an essential oil book or other professional reference source for suggested dilution ratios. Celery Seed can impair the reflexes, so use in small quantities. Do not drive or commit to tasks that require full concentration. For external use only. See our Safety Information page for further details when using essential oils.

Chamomile is a flowering plant in the daisy family. It is native to Europe and Asia. The flowers are used medicinally. Chamomile is considered a safe plant and has been used in many cultures for stomach ailments and as a mild sedative. Some studies primarily using combinations of chamomile with other plants, show it may have health benefits. However, as with any combination product, it is hard to say that a benefit comes from any one plant. One product with chamomile and other herbal medicines has been shown to ease upset stomach, heartburn, nausea and vomiting. Another mixture with chamomile seems to help colicky babies.Other names: Matricaria recutita, German chamomile, true chamomile, Hungarian chamomile. A mouth rinse with chamomile might relieve mouth sores caused by cancer treatments. Some research suggests that chamomile could help with other conditions, like diarrhea in children, hemorrhoids, anxiety, and insomnia. When used on the skin, chamomile might help with skin irritation and wound healing. Some research has documented that it may be as effective as hydrocortisone cream for eczema. Major chemical compounds present within chamomile include apigenin and alpha-bisabolol.Other classes of chemical compounds found within the chamomile plant include: sesquiterpenes, terpenoids, flavonoids, coumarins, herniarin and umbelliferone. Phenyl propanoids as chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid. Flavones such as apigenin and luteolin. Flavanols such as quercetin and rutin and polyacetylenes. Chamomile is frequently added to skin cosmetics to serve as an emollient, and for its anti-inflammatory effects. Chamomile is also often used to enhance the color of blonde hair.Chamomile oil is an essential oil extracted from the chamomile flower. Chamomile essential oil is extracted from the blossom (flowers) of the plant. To extract oil from the plants, most manufacturers use steam distillation. The flowers are placed in a still where hot steam is then applied. The steam which must be hot enough to penetrate the plant without burning it—forces the essential oil out of the plant so it can be collected independently. The amount of oil each plant yields depends on the variety - fresh Roman chamomile flowers tend to yield 1.7% essential oil, while German chamomile flowers yield only 0.2–0.4% essential oil. Chamomile Essential oils is a beautiful full bodied aroma , a very good modifier for Herbal Lavanderaceous odours and at the same time a beautiful Top Note for certain roses. A very difficult reconstitution to make , Chamomile by BMV will suffice for most Perfumery applications , But in no way can it match the beauty and elegance of the pure oil.

Champaca, commonly called yellow jade orchid tree is a large evergreen tree, native to the Indomalaya ecozone (consisting of South Asia, Southeast Asia and some parts of China).It is best known for its strongly fragrant yellow or white flowers. It is, however, primarily cultivated for its timber and is also used in urban landscaping. Its aril-covered seeds are highly attractive to birds.This species occurs in varying shades of cream to yellow-orange. In China, M. champaca var. pubinervia is documented. Magnolia × alba is a hybrid cultivar of M. champaca.In Thailand there has been some purported man-made hybrids with other magnolia species including Magnolia liliifera and Magnolia coco. The flowers are used in Southeast Asia for several purposes.Especially in India they are primarily used for worship at temples whether at home or out and more generally worn in hair by girls and women as a means of beauty ornament as well as a natural perfume. Flowers are used to be floated in bowls of water to scent the room, as a fragrant decoration for bridal beds, and for garlands."Magnolia champaca however is more rare and has a strong perfume, and is not that commonly or plentifully used - for example in hair it is worn singly or as a small corsage. But rarely as a whole garland, and for bridal beds it is most often jasmine and roses.While for bowls of water to be placed around rooms usually other, more colourful for visual decoration and less strongly perfumed flowers are used. The flower is sometimes commonly called the 'Joy perfume tree.' Many niche perfumers are now once again using Champaca Absolute as single note fragrances. Magnolia champaca is cultivated and used as an ornamental tree in temperate climate gardens, such as in coastal California.The flowers from this tree are used to make the world's most expensive perfume. The extremely aromatic orange blooms appear nearly all year round.Grows to the size of a large shrub or small tree, 15-20' in height. It is a tropical tree, however established plants can tolerate light freeze. Yellow Champaca is much more cold tolerant than var. Alba.A deep floral somewhat spicy odour and in combination with Jasmines and Roses will make a full bodied floral middle note.

Cinnamon is a spice obtained from the inner bark of several trees from the genus Cinnamomum. That is used in both sweet and savoury foods. While Cinnamomum verum is sometimes considered to be "true cinnamon".Most cinnamon in international commerce is derived from related species, which are also referred to as "cassia" to distinguish them from "true cinnamon". Cinnamon is the name for perhaps a dozen species of trees and the commercial spice products that some of them produce.All are members of the genus Cinnamomum in the family Lauraceae. Only a few of them are grown commercially for spice.The name "cinnamon" comes through the Greek kinnamomon, possibly from Phoenician.In Hindi it is called dal chini. In Urdu it is called dar chini.In Sri Lanka, in Sinhala, cinnamon is known as kurundu and was recorded in English in the 17th century as "korunda". It is called karuva in Malayalam and Tamil. Another Tamil variant is Pattai. In Indonesia, where it is cultivated in Java and Sumatra is called kayu manis ("sweet wood"). In several European languages, the word for cinnamon comes from the Latin word cannella, a diminutive of canna, "tube", from the way it curls up as it dries.The branches harvested this way are processed by scraping off the outer bark, then beating the branch evenly with a hammer to loosen the inner bark. The inner bark is then pried out in long rolls. Only 0.5 mm (0.020 in) of the inner bark is used. The outer woody portion is discarded leaving metre-long cinnamon strips that curl into rolls ("quills") on drying.Once dry the bark is cut into 5- to 10-cm (2- to 4-in) lengths for sale.The bark must be processed immediately after harvesting while still wet. Once processed the bark will dry completely in four to six hours provided it is in a well-ventilated and relatively warm environment. A less than ideal drying environment encourages the proliferation of pests in the bark, which may then require treatment by fumigation.Bark treated this way is not considered to be of the same premium quality as untreated bark.The flavour of cinnamon is due to an aromatic essential oil that makes up 0.5% to 1% of its composition. This essential oil is prepared by roughly pounding the bark macerating it in sea water and then quickly distilling the whole. It is of a golden-yellow colour with the characteristic odour of cinnamon and a very hot aromatic taste.The pungent taste and scent come from cinnamic aldehyde or cinnamaldehyde (about 90% of the essential oil from the bark) and by reaction with oxygen. As it ages it darkens in colour and forms resinous compounds. Other chemical components of the essential oil include ethyl cinnamate, eugenol (found mostly in the leaves), beta-caryophyllene, linalool, and methyl chavicol. Cinnamon has a much broader application in Flavours than Fragrances. However recently a trend of Cinnamon (Cassia Like) odours for Candles has emerged.But the most important thing about Cinnamon is that it reminds everybody of Christmas Cinnamon Flavoured Cookies .

Salvia sclarea, clary or clary sage is a biennial or short-lived herbaceous perennial in the genus Salvia. It is native to the northern Mediterranean, along with some areas in north Africa and Central Asia. The plant has a lengthy history as a medicinal herb and is currently grown for its essential oil.S. sclarea reaches 3 to 4 ft (0.91 to 1.22 m) in height, with thick square stems that are covered in hair. The leaves are approximately 1 ft (0.30 m) long at the base, 0.5 ft (0.15 m) long higher on the plant. The upper leaf surface is rugose and covered with glandular hair. The flowers are in verticils with 2-6 flowers in each verticil and are held in large colorful bracts. That range in color from pale mauve to lilac or white to pink with a pink mark on the edge. The lilac or pale blue corolla is approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) with the lips held wide open.Clary seeds have a mucilaginous coat,which is why some old herbals recommended placing a seed into the eye of someone with a foreign object in it so that it could adhere to the object and make it easy to remove. This practice is noted by Nicholas Culpeper in his Complete Herbal (1653) who referred to the plant as "clear-eye".The distilled essential oil is used widely in perfumes and as a muscatel flavoring for vermouths wines and liqueurs. It is also used in aromatherapy for relieving anxiety and fear, menstrual-related problems such as PMS and cramping and helping with insomnia. It is used as fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry. Especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavor. The young tops of Clary were used in soups and as pot herbs. It gives a new lift to omelets and was used to flavor jellies. The leaves were chopped into salads. Culpeper recommended a 17th century sage dish where the fresh leaves were first dipped in a batter of flour, eggs and a little milk fried in butter and served as a side dish.The flowers have an aromatic flavor and make a lovely contrast in salads. All sage flowers are edible after removing all greenery and stems.The main constituents of the oil are Linalyl Acetate , Linalool and Germacrene. Clary Sage Oil is one of the most important in a perfumers pallete. Excellent blending properties and forms good accords with Citrus and Herbal notes. And at the same time has very useful fixative properties.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), also known as cilantro, Chinese parsley or dhania, is an annual herb in the family Apiaceae. Coriander is native to regions spanning from southern Europe and North Africa to southwestern Asia. It is a soft plant growing to 50 cm (20 in) tall. The leaves are variable in shape, broadly lobed at the base of the plant, and slender and feathery higher on the flowering stems. The flowers are borne in small umbels, white or very pale pink, asymmetrical, with the petals pointing away from the centre of the umbel longer (5–6 mm or 0.20–0.24 in) than those pointing toward it (only 1–3 mm or 0.039–0.118 in long). The fruit is a globular, dry schizocarp 3–5 mm (0.12–0.20 in) in diameter. Although sometimes eaten alone, the seeds are often used as a spice or an added ingredient in other foods.Coriander is popular as a scented stimulating substance and also an important culinary spice. It has been cultivated in different parts of the world for thousands of years now and is said to be one of the oldest known herbs, it can be traced as far back as 5,000 B.C. Coriander has been in wide use in the Middle East, Asia, and southern Europe, and also its origin can be traced back to ancient Egypt. The Romans took coriander with them to Britain. The British then introduced it to North America in 1670, where it took hold especially in Mexico and Latin America.The essential oil from this ancient herb has a place in aromatherapy. It helps to ease the mind and fight fatigue. It warms and calms the digestive system, relieves rheumatism and arthritic pain, muscular spasms and detoxifies the body. The essential oil is obtained from the seeds through steam distillation. It is also said to possess anti-inflammatory and anti-spasmodic properties, and hence, it is extensively used as effective massage oil to facilitate blood circulation as well as to relieve stiffness of the joints. Coriander is also used to flavour gin, vermouth, liqueurs and tobacco. In perfumes, coriander is used to enrich the top and middle notes with its herbaceous, woody and spicy aura. Coriander oil combines nicely with bergamot, black pepper, cinnamon, clary sage, fennel, frankincense, ginger, grapefruit, juniper berry, lemon, neroli, nutmeg, orange, petitgrain, vetiver, and ylang-ylang.The fresh leaves are an ingredient in many Indian foods (such as chutneys and salads); in Chinese and Thai dishes; in Mexican cooking, particularly in salsa and guacamole and as a garnish; and in salads in Russia and other CIScountries. Chopped coriander leaves are a garnish on Indian dishes such as dal. As heat diminishes their flavour, coriander leaves are often used raw or added to the dish immediately before serving. In Indian and Central Asian recipes, coriander leaves are used in large amounts and cooked until the flavour diminishes.The leaves spoil quickly when removed from the plant, and lose their aroma when dried or frozen. Different people may perceive the taste of coriander leaves differently. Those who like it say it has a refreshing, lemony or lime-like flavor, while those who dislike it have a strong aversion to its taste and smell, likening it to that of soap and bug.Twin studies have shown that 80% of identical twins shared the same preference for the herb, but fraternal twins agreed only about half the time, strongly suggesting a genetic component to the preference. In a genetic survey of nearly 30,000 people, two genetic variants linked to perception of coriander have been found, the most common of which is a gene involved in sensing smells.The gene, OR6A2, lies within a cluster of olfactory-receptor genes, and encodes a receptor that is highly sensitive to aldehyde chemicals. Flavor chemists have found that the coriander aroma is created by a half-dozen or so substances, and most of these are aldehydes. Those who dislike the taste are sensitive to the offending unsaturated aldehydes, while simultaneously may also be unable to detect the aromatic chemicals that others find pleasant. Association between its taste and several other genes, including a bitter-taste receptor, have also been found.

Costus Root is a large, erect, perennial plant up to 2m high with a thick tapering root and numerous black flowers. The dried roots are macerated in warm water then subjected to steam distillation to extract the oil. Ostus Root Oil, Costus Oil, Costus Root Essential Oil, Costus Root Absolute, Costus Oil India. Costus Root Essential Oil blends well with Patchouli, Opopanax, Ylang-ylang, and any oil with oriental and floral fragrances. Costus Root Essential Oil has the following properties: antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, digestive, expectorant, febrifuge, stimulant, stomachic, and tonic. It is also used as incense, as a fixative and fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes. Costus is the plant of genus Saussurea belonging to the family Asteraceae. This herb is also known as putchock, kushta, Yun Mu Xiang, Qing Mu Xiang,Radix Aucklandiae, radix saussureae lappae, puchuk, koshet, kuth, costusroot, costus root, koot, kut Aucklandia Root and Guag Mu Xing. It is a perennial plant which grows upto the height of 1.5-2 meters. The essential oil is extracted from the roots of the Costus plant through steam distillation method. The oil has delicate, warm and soft odor. This essential oil is used in incenses, perfumes and also used as a hair rinse. Other common names for this essential oil areKuth oil, Costus oil, Costus root oil, Costus root essential oil, Costus Root Absolute and Mu xiang oil. It consists of dehydrocostus lactone, saussureal, costunolide, a-cyclocostunolide, costuslactone, isozaluzanin and alantolactone. Costus root essential oil has woodsy and grainy smell in a yellow or light brown color. It possess antiseptic, antiviral, antispasmodic, bactericidal, digestive, carminative, expectorant, hypotensive, febrifuge, stimulant, tonic and stomachic properties. It is used as a flavoring agent in alcoholic drinks, confectionary and soft drinks. Costus root essential oil helps to slow down the aging process. It counteracts the free radicals that are the cause for lines, loose skin and age spots. It is also helpful for the skin ailments such as eczema, psoriasis and dandruff. It helps to heal the skin inflammation. The healing properties of Costus root essential oil helps to treat scraps, cuts, scratches, scabs, ingrown toe nails and bug bites. It eliminates bacteria and infections in open wounds. This essential oil has been extracted from the roots of Costus by using the process of steam distillation. The yellow to brownish yellow liquid is obtained after complex extraction method. Costus plant is an erect, large and perennial plant which grows up the height of 2 m. It belongs to Costaceae family. The plant is a tall, perennial herb upto 2 meters high. Leaves are very large at the base born on the winged stalks and upper leaves are smaller, sometimes with two lobes at the base of the leaves, almost clasping the stems. Flowers are about 2 centimeters long, bluish purple or almost black, borne on rounded flower heads; few flower heads are clustered together. Pappus is about 1.7 centimeters long, feathery, giving a curious , fluffy appearnace to the fruiting flower heads.

Canarium luzonicum commonly known as elemi is a tree native to the Philippines and an oleoresin harvested from it. The tree produces a resin, which is a pale yellow substance from which aromatic elemi oil is steam distilled. The same resin is also used as a herbal remedy from bronchitis, cough, mature skin, scars and wounds. Elemi resin is a pale yellow substance, of honey-like consistency. Aromatic elemi oil is steam distilled from the resin. It is a fragrant resin with a sharp pine and lemon-like scent. One of the resin components is called amyrin. Elemi resin is chiefly used commercially in varnishes, lacquers and certain printing inks. It is used as a herbal medicine to treat bronchitis, catarrh, extreme coughing, mature skin, scars, stress and wounds. The constituents include phellandrene, limonene, elemol, elemicin, terpineol, carvone and terpinolene. The word elemi has been used at various times to denote different resins. In the 17th and 18th centuries the term usually denoted a resin from trees of the genus Icica in Brazil and before that it meant the resin derived from Boswellia frereana. The word like the older term animi appears to have been derived from enhaemon : the name of a styptic medicine said by Pliny to contain tears exuded by the olive tree of Arabia. Elemi has more of a citrus aroma than does frankincense. But elemi has the distinctive spicy/peppery tone of frankincense. Elemi is often diffused during meditation or energy work sessions to aid in visualizations. Elemi should be diffused in times of stress or mental exhaustion.Elemi can be applied to the feet or any part of the body. It makes an excellent addition to massage oils and compresses.Elemi is a good oil to add to the bath. Elemi is known throughout the world as “poor man’s frankincense”. It has somewhat similar properties and uses as frankincense. Elemi makes a wonderful addition to blends intended for skin care and rejuvenation. Elemi can be used to treat allergic rashes, chapped skin, skin ulcers, and wounds. It is particularly recommended for cuts that have become infected. Elemi has a reputation for being effective in the treatment of gangrene and breast and uterine infections. Elemi has a rebuilding and strengthening effect on respiratory weakness. Elemi may be of use to people who suffer from chronic bronchitis. This essential oil is recommended for bronchial or sinus infections. EMOTIONAL / SPIRITUAL / MENTAL ASPECTS. Elemi lifts the spirits and provides the energy and desire to seek out better things and more uplifting experiences. The aroma of elemi encourages compassion and a desire for going beyond the ordinary in serving others. Elemi Oil & Resinoid are used in Fragrances for the freshness imparted to Citrus Accords and Colognes , it is always used in traces and never in high doses , as the Ordinary Piney charcter shows up.

Plumeria alba (common name Frangipani) is a genus of flowering plants in the dogbane family, Apocynaceae. It contains seven or eight species of mainly deciduous shrubs and small trees. They are native to Central America, Mexico, The Caribbean, and South America as far south as Brazil. But can be grown in tropical and sub-tropical regions.Plumeria flowers are most fragrant at night in order to lure sphinx moths to pollinate them. The flowers have no nectar. However and simply dupe their pollinators. The moths inadvertently pollinate them by transferring pollen from flower to flower in their fruitless search for nectar. Plumeria species may be propagated easily from cuttings of leafless stem tips in spring. Cuttings are allowed to dry at the base before planting in well-drained soil. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to rot in moist soil. In order to get the most from a plumeria plant with respect to growth, size, blooms, and scent. There is a fine balance that must be maintained. Ideally a plumeria is in its element when it can have plenty of sun and appropriate water. So as to maintain soil moistness just above a state of dryness. In Persian the name is "yas" or "yasmin". In India, the name is "champa" or "chafa", in Telugu "Deva ganneru" (divine nerium), in Manipuri "Khagi Leihao" . In Hawaii the name is "melia". Although common usage is still "plumeria". In Sri Lanka it is referred to as araliya and in English as the Temple Tree. In Cantonese, it is known as 'gaai daan fa' or the 'egg yolk flower' tree. The name 'Leelawadee' (originating from Thai) is found occasionally. In Indonesia where the flower has been commonly associated with Balinese culture, is known as "Kamboja". Plumeria smells stronger in the night in order to attract insects for pollination. The crafty Plumeria has no nectar, but virtuously mimics nectar-producing flowers. Poor pollinators go from flower to flower refusing to believe they are fooled and she gets what needed. A flower in India Plumeria has been used as the treatment for itches and fevers. It is believed that Mayan people added it for skin treatments. The simplest way is to add a drop of Plumeria essential oil to Jojoba oil and massage this mixture into skin after bath. Even if Plumeria doesn’t work Jojoba works for both and your skin smells heavenly. Frangipani is a very unique and complex odour , reminding of Rose and Jasmine and Citrus. Can be used as such as a fragrance or can be used in the middle note complex of a fragrance.

Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin, the product of certain umbelliferous Persian plant species, chiefly Ferula gummosa (synonym F. galbaniflua) and Ferula rubricaulis. Galbanum-yielding plants grow plentifully on the slopes of the mountain ranges of northern Iran. It occurs usually in hard or soft, irregular, more or less translucent and shining lumps, or occasionally in separate tears, of a light-brown, yellowish or greenish-yellow colour, and has a disagreeable, bitter taste, a peculiar, somewhat musky odour, an intense green scent, and a specific gravity of 1.212. It contains about 8% terpenes; about 65% of a resin which contains sulfur; about 20% gum; and a very small quantity of the colorless crystalline substance umbelliferone. It also contains a-pinene, b-pinene, limonene, cadinene, 3-carene, and ocimene.Galbunum has been used as a medicinal and aromatherapeutic ingredient since ancient times. References to galbanum may be found in the Old Testament, in the writings of Hippocrates (the father of modern medicine) and in Pliny’s Natural History. It was used primarily as an anti-inflammatory, expectorant and antiseptic agent, and as an anti-spasmodic treatment for women during childbirth. The ancient Egyptians imported mass quantities of galbanum from Persia, to use in their religious ceremonies, in embalming and as a therapeutic healing aid.Galbanum has an intense green fragrance with woody and balsamic elements. Often described as earthy or forest-like, this fragrance compound is valued for its ability to impart a rich, spicy green scent. Perfumers use galbanum both as a strong top note in "green" fragrances and as a base note in combination with musk and/or chypre elements such as oakmoss and pine.Fragrances for women that feature the perfume ingredient galbanum include Chanel No. 19, Guerlain Vol De Nuit, Cartier Must, Balmain Vent Vert, Fresh Galbanum Patchouli, Prince Matchabelli Cachet, Il Profumo Chocolat, Bill Blass Nude, Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Amour, Molinard Les Fleurs: Fleur de Figuier, Issey Miyake A Scent, Prada Infusion d'Iris, Chloe Eau de Fleurs Capucine and Azzaro Couture. Men's fragrances featuring galbanum in their scent composition include Etienne Aigner Private Number, Serge Lutens Borneo 1834, Aramis Devin, Miller Harris Patchouli, Laura Biagiotti. Galbanum essential oil was holy anointing oil and was highly treasured for spiritual use going back to the time of the Egyptians. Use it for meditation and increasing spiritual awareness through the heart and crown chakras.

Gardenia is a genus of flowering plants in the coffee family, Rubiaceae, native to the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, southern Asia, Australasia and Oceania.The genus was named by Carl Linnaeus and John Ellis after Dr. Alexander Garden (1730-1791), a Scottish-born American naturalist. They are evergreen shrubs and small trees growing to 1–15 metres (3.3–49.2 ft) tall. The leaves are opposite or in whorls of three or four, 5–50 centimetres (2.0–19.7 in) long and 3–25 centimetres (1.2–9.8 in) broad, dark green and glossy with a leathery texture. The flowers are solitary or in small clusters, white, or pale yellow, with a tubular-based corolla with 5-12 lobes (petals) from 5–12 centimetres (2.0–4.7 in) diameter. Flowering is from about mid-spring to mid-summer and many species are strongly scented.Gardenia plants are prized for the strong sweet scent of their flowers, which can be very large in size in some species. Gardenia jasminoides (syn. G. grandiflora, G. Florida) is cultivated as a house plant. This species can be difficult to grow because it originated in warm humid tropical areas. It demands high humidity to thrive and bright (not direct) light. It flourishes in acidic soils with good drainage and thrives on [68-74 F temperatures (20-23 C).It is the national flower of Pakistan. Several species occur on Hawaii, where gardenias are known as nau or nanu.Crocetin is a chemical compound found in gardenia fruit (Gardenia jasminoides Ellis). In high concentrations, it has protective effects against retinal damage in vitro. Gardenias appeal to whiteflies, scales, and mealybugs. Control outbreaks by applying a light horticultural oil such as Sunspray Ultra-Fine. If left untreated, severe infestations of these sucking insects can lead to a sooty mold buildup. This black mold does not really harm the plant but does slow down photosynthesis.Most all of these problems can be avoided by giving gardenias what they need. Moist, acid, well-drained soil; morning sun and afternoon shade; good air circulation; and proper fertilization will make them happy. Share the joy of these plants with friends; they root easily and can be grown from seeds, making them great pass-alongs.With lustrous leaves, beautiful flowers, and a heavenly fragrance, gardenias are the perfect plants to grace the days of summer. Gardenia as a floral has now been almost forgotten . Now is the time to reintroduce in fragrances and use its delightful odour.

Geranium is a genus of 422 species of flowering annual, biennial, and perennial plants that are commonly known as the cranesbills. They are found throughout the temperate regions of the world and the mountains of the tropics, but mostly in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region. The long, palmately cleft leaves are broadly circular in form. The flowers have five petals and are coloured white, pink, purple or blue, often with distinctive veining. Geraniums will grow in any soil as long as it is not waterlogged. Propagation is by semiripe cuttings in summer, by seed, or by division in autumn or spring.Confusingly, "geranium" is also the common name of members of the genus Pelargonium (sometimes known as 'storksbill'), which are also in the Geraniaceae family. These are generally half-hardy plants which are either grown from seed every year, or offered as bedding in spring and discarded after flowering. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, but they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789. Other former members of the genus are now classified in genus Erodium, including the plants known as filarees in North America.The term "hardy geranium" is often applied to geraniums to distinguish them from the pelargoniums. However, not all geranium species are winter-hardy.The shape of the flowers offers one way of distinguishing between the two genera Geranium and Pelargonium. Geranium flowers have five very similar petals, and are thus radially symmetrical (actinomorphic), whereas pelargonium flowers have two upper petals which are different from the three lower petals, so the flowers have a single plane of symmetry (zygomorphic).Scientists from the Helmholtz Zentrum Munchen, Germany have found that South African geranium plant extracts represent a potential new class of anti-HIV-1 agents for the treatment of AIDS. Geranium oil can be used to help in the treatment of acne, bruises, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, hemorrhoids, lice, as a mosquito repellant, ringworm, ulcers, breast engorgement, edema, poor circulation, sore throat, tonsillitis, PMS, menopausal problems, stress and neuralgia.The essential oil prepared from the geranium herb has a pleasant, captivating and long-lasting aroma. Hence, it is widely used as a deodorant for regulating perspiration and purging body odor. One of the Most Important Essential Oil in a perfumers Lab , and nearly all perfumers will have two to three or maybe more types of Geranium in his Lab. One of the best known floralizer and limitless in application and percentage use in a compound. However technically there is only one True Geranium and that is Zdravetz Oil and the other so called Chinese Geranium , Egyptian Geranium etc are from the Pelargonium Family.

The grapefruit (Citrus × paradisi) is a subtropical citrus tree known for its sour to semi-sweet fruit, an 18th-century hybrid first bred in Barbados. When found, it was named the "forbidden fruit”. The evergreen grapefruit trees usually grow to around 5–6 meters (16–20 ft) tall, although they can reach 13–15 meters (43–49 ft). The leaves are glossy dark green, long (up to 15 centimeters (5.9 in)) and thin. It produces 5 cm (2 in) white four-petaled flowers. The fruit is yellow-orange skinned and generally an oblate spheroid in shape; it ranges in diameter from 10–15 centimeters (3.9–5.9 in). The flesh is segmented and acidic, varying in color depending on the cultivars, which include white, pink and red pulps of varying sweetness (generally, the redder varieties are sweeter). One ancestor of the grapefruit was the Jamaican sweet orange (Citrus sinensis), itself an ancient hybrid of Asian origin; the other was the Indonesian pomelo (C. maxima). One story of the fruit's origins is that a certain "Captain Shaddock"brought pomelo seeds to Jamaica and bred the first fruit. However, it probably originated as a naturally occurring hybrid.The hybrid fruit, then called "the forbidden fruit", was first documented in 1750 by a Welshman, Rev. Griffith Hughes, who described specimens from Barbados in The Natural History of Barbados. Grapefruit comes in many varieties, determinable by color, which is caused by the pigmentation of the fruit in respect of its state of ripeness. The most popular varieties cultivated today are red, white, and pink hues, referring to the internal pulp color of the fruit. The family of flavors range from highly acidic and somewhat sour to sweet and tart. Grapefruit mercaptan, a sulfur-containing terpene, is one of the substances which has a strong influence on the taste and odor of grapefruit, compared with other citrus fruits.The furano coumarins found in grapefruit juice are natural chemicals.

Honeysuckles (Lonicera Caprifolium Mill.) are arching shrubs or twining vines in the family Caprifoliaceae, native to the Northern Hemisphere. There are about 180 species of honeysuckle, 100 of which occur in China while about 20 native species occur in Europe, India and, North America each. Widely known species include Lonicera periclymenum (honeysuckle or woodbine), Lonicera japonica (Japanese honeysuckle, white honeysuckle, or Chinese honeysuckle) and Lonicera sempervirens (coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle, or woodbine honeysuckle). Hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers on some of these plants, especially L. sempervirens and L. ciliosa (orange honeysuckle). The name Lonicera stems from Adam Lonicer, a Renaissance botanist.Most species of Lonicera are hardy twining climbers, with a large minority of shrubby habit; a handful of species (including Lonicera hildebrandiana from the Himalayan foothills and L. etrusca from the Mediterranean) are tender and can only be grown outside in subtropical zones. The leaves are opposite, simple oval, 1–10 cm long; most are deciduous but some are evergreen. Many of the species have sweetly-scented, bilaterally symmetrical flowers that produce a sweet, edible nectar, and most flowers are borne in clusters of two (leading to the common name of "twinberry" for certain North American species). Both shrubby and vining sorts have strongly fibrous stems which have been used for binding and textiles. The fruit is a red, blue or black spherical or elongated berry containing several seeds; in most species the berries are mildly poisonous, but in a few (notably Lonicera caerulea) they are edible and grown for home use and commerce. Most honeysuckle berries are attractive to wildlife, which has led to species such as L. japonica and L. maackii spreading invasively outside of their home ranges. Many species of Lonicera are eaten by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species - see a list of Lepidoptera that feed on honeysuckles.Several species of honeysuckle have become invasive when introduced outside their native range, particularly in New Zealand and the United States. Invasive species include L. japonica, L. maackii, L. morrowii, and L. tatarica. Honeysuckles are valued as garden plants, for their ability to cover unsightly walls and outbuildings, their profuse tubular flowers in summer, and the intense fragrance of many varieties. The hardy climbing types need their roots in shade, and their flowering tops in sunlight or very light shade. Varieties need to be chosen with care, as they can become substantial. Honeysuckle is used for digestive disorders including pain and swelling (inflammation) of the small intestine (enteritis) and dysentery; upper respiratory tract infections including colds, influenza, swine flu, and pneumonia; other viral and bacterial infections; swelling of the brain (encephalitis); fever; boils; and sores. Honeysuckle is also used for urinary disorders, headache, diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, and cancer. Some people use it to promote sweating, as a laxative, to counteract poisoning, and for birth control.Honeysuckle is sometimes applied to the skin for inflammation and itching, and to kill germs. Honeysuckle being a very strong odour and overpowering is rarely used as such , but traces of honesuckle in Rose or Jasmine pushes the accord up. A very strong floralizer for middle notes , should be very interesting in Oriental Blends.

Jasmine (taxonomic name Jasminum is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family (Oleaceae). It contains around 200 species native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Jasmines are widely cultivated for the characteristic fragrance of their flowers. A number of unrelated plants contain the word 'Jasmine' in their common names (see Other plants called 'Jasmine').Jasmines can be either deciduous (leaves falling in autumn) or evergreen (green all year round), and can be erect, spreading, or climbing shrubs and vines. Their leaves are borne opposite or alternate. They can be simple, trifoliate, or pinnate. The flowers are typically around 2.5 cm (0.98 in) in diameter. They are white or yellow in color, although in rare instances they can be slightly reddish. The flowers are borne in cymose clusters with a minimum of three flowers, though they can also be solitary on the ends of branchlets. Each flower has about four to nine petals, two locules, and one to four ovules. They have two stamens with very short filaments. The bracts are linear or ovate. The calyx is bell-shaped. They are usually very fragrant. The fruits of jasmines are berries that turn black when ripe.The basic chromosome number of the genus is 13, and most species are diploid (2n=26). However, natural polyploidy exists, particularly in Jasminum sambac (2n=39), Jasminum flexile (2n=52), Jasminum primulinum (2n=39), and Jasminum angustifolium (2n=52).Jasmines are native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, and Australia. Among the 200 species, only one is native to Europe.Their center of diversity is in South Asia and Southeast Asia.Although not native to Europe, a number of jasmine species have become naturalized in Mediterranean Europe. For example, the so-called Spanish jasmine or Catalonian jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) was originally from Iran and western South Asia, and is now naturalized in the Iberian peninsula.Jasminum fluminense (which is sometimes known by the inaccurate name "Brazilian Jasmine") and Jasminum dichotomum (Gold Coast Jasmine) are invasive species in Hawaii and Florida. Jasminum polyanthum, also known as White Jasmine, is an invasive weed in Australia. Species belonging to genus Jasminum are classified under the tribe Jasmineae of the olive family (Oleaceae).Jasminum is divided into five sections—Alternifolia, Jasminum, Primulina, Trifoliolata, and Unifoliolata.Widely cultivated for its flowers, jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The flowers are worn by women in their hair in southern and southeast Asia. The delicate jasmine flower opens only at night and may be plucked in the morning when the tiny petals are tightly closed, then stored in a cool place until night. The petals begin to open between six and eight in the evening, as the temperature lowers.Jasmine syrup, made from jasmine flowers, is used as a flavouring agent.Many species also yield an absolute, which is used in perfumes and incense. Its chemical constituents include methyl anthranilate, indole, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and skatole.Jasmine gave name to the jasmonate plant hormones as methyl jasmonate isolated from the jasmine oil of Jasminum grandiflorum led to the discovery of the molecular structure of jasmonates. There is saying that “ No perfume without Jasmine” , very true if you consider that almost all fragrances do contain a touch of this exquisite odour. The odour of Jasmine is heady sensual deep and intoxicating. There are so many facets to a jasmine odour that it is impossible to describe in words. Three types of Jasmines that are used in Perfumery are Jasmine Grandiflorum , Jasmine Sambac and Jasmine Auriculatum. Grandiflorum and Sambac are the two most used. Whereas Grandiflorum has a deep sweet jam like odour sambac is green and calyx like. We offer reconstitutions of both and are very useful for blending.

Nardostachys jatamansi is a flowering plant of the valerian family that grows in the Himalays. It is a source of a type of intensely aromatic amber coloured essential oil, spikenard. The oil since ancient time has been used a a perfume, as a medicine and in religious contexts. It is also called spikenard, nard, nardin or muskroot. The main growing region is eastern Himalays, primarily in a belt through Kumaon, Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. The plant grows to about 1 M in height and has pink, bell shaped flowers. It is found in the attitude of about 3000 to 5000 meters. Rhizomes (underground stems) can be crushed and distilled in to an intensely aromatic amber coloured essential oil, which is very thick in consistency. Nard oil is used as a perfume, an incense, a sedative and an herbal medicine said to fight insomnia, birth difficulties and other minor ailments. Nardostachys jatamansi may have been used as an ingredient in the incense known as spikenard. Although lavender is also been suggested as a candidate for the spikenard of classical times. The chemical components of Nardostachys jatamansi have been assayed in a number of different studies. This heavy, sweet-woody jatamasi oil is reminiscent of valerian, yet sweeter and more pleasant. It blends well with cedarwood oil, sandalwood oil, lavender oil, patchouli oil, pine oil and vetiver oil. Jatamansi oil is one of the primary ingredients in Floracopeia's Vata blend. These compounds include : acaciin, ursolie acid, octacosanol, kanshone A, nardosinonediol, nardosinone, aristolen-9beta-ol, oleanolic acid, beta-sitosterol.

Keora Plant (Pandanus odoratissimus)The Kewra plant grows wild along the east coast of India. The plants producing the best floral bouquet are grown in Ganjam district of South Orrisa.It should be noted that Rampe plant (Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb) is different from Kewra plant. The fragrant leaves of Rampe plant (Pandan Patta) are used to flavor rice and curries.Kewra plant is dioecious, with male and female flowers produced on different plants. In Sanskrit, the plant is called Ketaki. The male plants are called 'Ketaki Viphala', and the female plants and called 'Swarana Ketaki'.The male plant - flower Only the flowers of the male plant are harvested to extract the floral bouquet to produce Kewra. The flower bouquet is sweet similar to rose flowers, and fruity. The Kewra plant grows up to 18 feet tall. The plants flower three times a year (Summer, Monsoon, and Winter). 60% of the flowers grow during monsoon season (July-September), and posses the best floral bouquet. 30% of the flowers grow during summer (May-June), and remaining 10% grow during winter (October-November). The creamy white color flowers are encased in long spikes about one foot long. On average, one mature plant can produce about 35 flower spikes.The female plant - flowerThe flower of female plant has no floral bouquet. It is left to develop into fruit.The fruitThe female plant bears a fruit that looks like a pineapple. When ripe, the fruit develops a very mild bouquet. The fruit is edible.The leaves have no fragrance, they are not edible. The leaves are fibrous and used to weave baskets and mats.The stem and roots have no fragrance and are not edible. The stem and roots are fibrous and used to as a tie for basket and mat making. They are also cut about 8" long pieces, one end is pounded to make it into a coarse brush. The flavouring derived from a variety of pandan, Pandanus fascicularis. Used in India, it is also called kewda essence and is from the male inflorescence of the plant. It is strongly floral. Use an eye-dropper to add a drop at a time in case too much goes in and ruins the dish. Concentrated oil made from pandanus flowers used to flavor desserts and beverages in Indian cuisine.Widely used in desserts and beverages. It adds a good aroma, when added to vermicelli Kheer or custards.·Kewra essence, made from kewra flowers, is used for flavouring sweets in sugar syrup, like petha (candied white pumpkin), Ras Malai (cream cheese cooked in double cream). Itr kewra, a stronger concentrate than ruh kewra, is used in dry sweets like barfi (milk toffee) and gajar halwa (grated carrot pudding). Kewra is also used to perfume pulaos. Pan Masala and Gutka are the largest consumer of Indian attars. The reason for using it is its extraordinary tenacity along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco note. Kewra Ruh (Oil) this is 100% pure oil extracted from male Kewra flowers. It takes about 1,000 flowers to produce one ounce of Kewra Ruh. In Ayurveda, the oil is used as a stimulant, and to treat rheumatoid arthritis. Kewra Attar (Perfume) the Kewra flowers are distillated into sandalwood oil. Kewra Attar has about 3% to 5% Kewra oil, and the remainder is Sandalwood oil. Normally, it is specified in terms of number of flower spikes (10,000 to 15,000) per pound of sandalwood oil. This is the most popular perfume used in India. It is applied behind ears, and used to scent clothes. The perfume is also added to various cosmetics.Kewra Jal (Hydrosol)The fragrant hydrosol may be either a primary product from low quality flowers collected during hot summer. It may be a secondary product from Kewra Ruh or Attar production. Kewra Jal is also called Kewra water. Kewra Jal is about 0.02% of Kewra oil. 24 flowers can produce one pound of primary hydrosol.

Labdanum, also called ladanum or ladan, is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient.In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs.Wooden instruments used were referred to in 19th-century Crete as ergastiri;a lambadistrion ("labdanum-gatherer") was a kind of rake to which a double row of leathern thongs were fixed instead of teeth.These were used to sweep the shrubs and collect the resin which was later extracted. It was collected by the shepherds and sold to coastal traders. Many of the false beards worn by the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were made of goats' hair which was held together by labdanum.The resin was also used to treat colds, coughs, menstrual problems and rheumatism.Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation. The raw gum is a black (sometimes dark brown), fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is plastic but not pourable, and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance is more refined than the raw resin. The odour is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries because its precursor originates from the sperm whale, which is an endangered species.Labdanum is the main ingredient used when making the scent of amber in perfumery. Labdanum's odour is variously described as amber, animalic, sweet, woody, ambergris, dry musk, or leathery.Labdanum is a rich brown resin sourced from the cistus shrubs of the species rockrose. This sticky resin is used since the ancient times as a natural remedy and perfume ingredient.Back in the past, the resin was used to treat various ailments such as menstrual problems, rheumatism, and common colds. Today, the resin is mainly used in the perfume industry and obtained by boiling the leaves and twigs, by solvent extraction, or steam distillation.Most modern labdanum is sourced in Spain, on the borders of Spain and Portugal,but in Spain's territory. Labdanum's odor profile is highly complex. Often compared to amber, it is a balsam-like and slightly musty scent in its raw form, with woody, earthy, smoky, marshy and even honey and plum undertones. Prized for its rich, sweet and vegetal mossy aroma, it is commonly used in modern perfumery to render leather or ambergris notes.Labdanum is one of the most important product on a perfumers list , its odour is invaluable for certain formulations. Its use can hardly be restricted to any area except floral accords. A wonderful fixative.

Lavandula (common name lavender) is a genus of 39 species of flowering plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. It is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, southern Europe across to northern and eastern Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to southeast India. Many members of the genus are cultivated extensively in temperate climates as ornamental plants for garden and landscape use, for use as culinary herbs, and also commercially for the extraction of essential oils. The most widely cultivated species, Lavandula angustifolia is often referred to as lavender, and there is a colour named for the shade of the flowers of this species.The genus includes annual or short-lived herbaceous perennial plants, and suffrutescent perennials, subshrubs or small shrubs.Leaf shape is diverse across the genus. They are simple in some commonly cultivated species; in others they are pinnately toothed, or pinnate, sometimes multiple pinnate and dissected. In most species the leaves are covered in fine hairs or indumentum, which normally contain the essential oils.Flowers are borne in whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage, the spikes being branched in some species. Some species produce coloured bracts at the apices. The flowers may be blue, violet or lilac in the wild species, occasionally blackish purple or yellowish. The calyx is tubular. The corolla is also tubular, usually with five lobes (the upper lip often cleft, and the lower lip has two clefts). The English word lavender is generally thought to be derived from Old French lavandre, ultimately from the Latin lavare (to wash), referring to the use of infusions of the plants.The botanic name Lavandula as used by Linnaeus is considered to be derived from this and other European vernacular names for the plants. However it is suggested that this explanation may be apocryphal, and that the name may actually be derived from Latin livere, "blueish".Lavender Oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula Officinalis, a wild growing or cultivated plant, native to the Mediterranean countries. Distillation takes place mainly in the south of France where the plants grow at medium altitudes of this mountainous region (from 600to 1500 metres altitude). Distilleries located at high altitude produce oils of higher ester content, not only because of the theory that the high-altitude, wild-growing plants contain more esters, but also because of the fact that high-altitude distillation means lower temperature-boiling. Consequently, the distilledoil is not exposed to 100”C. hot steam, but perhaps only to 92 or 93”C.An absolute gem, among the top materials for blending. Lavender has been responsible for many successful fragrances worldwide and is still going strong. There is whole family of Perfumes namely Fougeres that are based on Lavender. Lavender Oil (French type) is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of sweet, floral-herbaceous refreshing odor with a pleasant, balsamic-woody undertone. An almost fruity-sweet top note is of a very short life, and the entire oil is not distinguished by its tenacity in odor. It is used extensively in colognes (citrus-colognes or the well-known lavender-waters), in fougeres, chypres, ambres and countless floral, semi-floral or particularly in non-floral perfume types. The oil blends well with bergamot and other citrus oils, clove oils etc.

Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) is actually a hybrid created from true lavender (lavendula augustifolia) and spike lavender (Lavendula latifolia). The true lavender grows higher in the mountains while the spike lavender or aspic as it is sometimes known grows down lower. Where they tended to meet they would cross pollinate and lavandin came into being. As it is a hybrid it’s appearance can vary some, but in general it is a larger plant than true lavender with woody stems. The flowers vary from blue like true lavender to more greyish, similar to spike lavender. Lavandin also has aromatherapy uses similar to true lavender but it is more penetrating. It has a stronger scent and is considered beneficial for inflammation, respiratory and circulatory conditions. It is also thought to be very helpful in fighting germs. Feel free to reach for lavandin to help with sore muscles and joint pain, aid in clearing sinuses and symptoms of colds and flu and flushing toxins from your system. It does have many of the same actions as true lavender.One benefit it does NOT share with lavender is the ability to help heal burns. Apparently due to its higher camphor content it can actually make the burns worse. The scent of lavandin is similar to lavender but more pungent with a slightly different note to it. Instead Lavandin is used in some soap blends to help intensify the lavander scent as well as to extend its staying power. Another thing about Lavandin is that it is less likely to have been adulterated as opposed to true lavender. To summarize: Lavandin is an important essential oil in its own right and is extremely useful for the soap maker when blending scents. It has many beneficial qualities and in many respects is similar to Lavender but should not be used interchangeably as the issue with treatment for burns points out.The Lavandin, plant from which this essential oil is obtained, is not a natural plant in the true sense, because it was born as a result of the hybridization of two plants with the scientific names Lavandula Angustifolia and Lavandula Latifolia. That is why Lavandin is scientifically known as Lavandula Hybrida and Lavandula Hortensis.The aroma and medicinal properties of Lavandin are quite similar to those of Lavender, but they are more intense and sharp, since it is a hybrid. The main components of this oil are Lavandulol, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Camphor, Cineole, Caryophyllene, Camphene, Dipentene, Limonene, Ocimene, and Terpinene.Lavandin oil boosts self esteem, confidence, hope, and mental strength, while efficiently fighting depression. As an antidepressant, it can be systematically administered to patients of acute depression who are undergoing rehabilitation.The essential oil of Lavandin has certain compounds which contribute to its antiseptic properties. By virtue of this property, Lavandin Oil can protect wounds from becoming septic. It is found to be effective in preventing incisions from becoming septic or getting infected from tetanus, particularly after surgery, caesarian deliveries and other wounds. It relieves the deposition of phlegm, cramps, stiffness and pain in muscles and helps cure sinusitis,dermatitis and colds. Being a different species it is no surprise that lavandin oil is different from L.angustifolia oil. Lavandin because of its strong similarity to lavender and much lower prices has become a very big product. In fact in certain compositions its odour profile is better suited than lavender. In soap and incense formulations it gives better effects, because of a higher percentage of Camphor & Borneol.Lavandin Oil blends well with countless natural and synthetic perfume materials. More recently the old-fashioned “Rondeletia’’-theme has found a renaissance in the combination of lavandin oil with clove oils, eugenol, bay leaf oil, cinnamon leaf oil, etc. Other blenders are aliphatic aldehydes (modifiers, topnotes), amyl salicylate, citronella oils, cypress oil, decyl alcohol, geranium oils, geranyl acetone, isobornyl acetate, pine needle oils, thyme or origanum oils, patchouli (also fixative), etc.

Lemon (Citrus limomum) is a small evergreen tree native to Asia. The tree's ellipsoidal yellow fruit is used for culinary and non-culinary purposes throughout the world, primarily for its juice, though the pulp and rind (zest) are also used in cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6% citric acid,which gives lemons a sour taste.Expressed Lemon Oil is a yellow to greenish yellow or pale yellow mobile liquid of very light, fresh and sweet odor, truly reminiscent of the ripe peel. No turpentine-like, harsh-terpene notes should be detectable on a perfume blotter. Good oils retain their fresh lemon odor practically unchanged on a blotter until there is no odor left at all. Expressed Lemon Oil is used in perfumes and flavors for its refreshing, sweet-fruity note. It is one of the more important ingredients in the old-fashioned citrus-type of colognes, in “Eau de Verveine” and other toilet waters, lotions, aerosol sprays, etc. It finds general application as a freshener and topnote ingredient in countless perfume types. Lemon Oil blends well with other citrus oils, with lavender oil, lavandin, elemi, labdanum, petitgrain, neroli, etc. and among the most common fixatives for lemon oil are coumarin, vanillin, cinnamates, elemi resinoid, oakmoss products, araucaria oil, etc.

Linden is one of three English names for the tree genus Tilia . Several of the common names for species within the Tilia genus have Linden in their names.Tilia is a genus of about 30 species of trees native throughout most of the temperate Northern Hemisphere. Commonly called lime trees in the British Isles, they are not closely related to the lime fruit. Other names include linden and basswood. The genus occurs in Europe and eastern North America, but the greatest species diversity is found in Asia. Under the Cronquist classification system, this genus was placed in the family Tiliaceae, but genetic research by the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group has resulted in the incorporation of this genus into the Malvaceae.Tilia species are mostly large, deciduous trees, reaching typically 20 to 40 metres (66 to 130 ft) tall, with oblique-cordate leaves 6 to 20 centimetres (2 to 8 in) across. As with elms, the exact number of species is uncertain, as many if not most of the species will hybridise readily, both in the wild and in cultivation. Limes are hermaphroditic, having perfect flowers with both male and female parts, pollinated by insects."Linden" was originally the adjective, "made from lime-wood" (equivalent to "wooden"); from the late 16th century, "linden" was also used as a noun, probably influenced by translations of German romance, as an adoption of Linden, the plural of German Linde. Neither the name nor the tree is related to the citrus fruit called "lime" (Citrus aurantifolia, family Rutaceae). Another common name used in North America is basswood, derived from bast, the name for the inner bark (see Uses, below). Teil is an old name for the lime tree.The leaves of all the Tilia species are heart-shaped and most are asymmetrical, and the tiny fruit, looking like peas, always hang attached to a ribbon-like, greenish-yellow bract, whose use seems to be to launch the ripened seed-clusters just a little beyond the parent tree. The flowers of the European and American Tilia species are similar, except the American bears a petal-like scale among its stamens and the European varieties are devoid of these appendages. All of the Tilia species may be propagated by cuttings and grafting, as well as by seed. They grow rapidly in rich soil, but are subject to the attack of many insects. Tilia is notoriously difficult to propagate from seed unless collected fresh in the fall. If allowed to dry, The linden is recommended as an ornamental tree when a mass of foliage or a deep shade is desired. The tree produces fragrant and nectar-producing flowers, the medicinal herb lime blossom. They are very important honey plants for beekeepers, producing a very pale but richly flavoured monofloral honey. The flowers are also used for herbal teas and tinctures; this kind of use is particularly popular in Europe and also used in North American herbal medicine practices.When you come close to blooming linden you feeldivine aroma from the flowers! Nothing smells moreamazing then flowering linden! Bees love its flowers!What can be better than to sit underneath linden tree drinkinglinden tea with linden honey?! The aroma is overwhelming.

The Mandarin orange, also known as the mandarin or mandarine , is a small citrus tree (Citrus reticulata) with fruit resembling other oranges. Mandarin oranges are usually eaten plain or in fruit salads. Specifically reddish-orange mandarin cultivars can be marketed as tangerines, but this is not a botanical classification. When exporting began, local Mandarin oranges were named after their port of origin.The tree is more drought-tolerant than the fruit. The mandarin is tender and is damaged easily by cold. It can be grown in tropical and subtropical areas. According to molecular studies, the mandarin, the citron, the pomelo, and the papeda were the ancestors of all other citrus species and their varieties, through breeding or natural hybridization; mandarins are therefore all the more important as the only sweet fruit among the parental species.The mandarin orange is a variety of the orange family. Cultivars and crosses between the original mandarin and other citrus fruits include:Satsuma (Citrus unshiu), a seedless variety, of which there are over 200 cultivars, such as Owari and mikan; the source of most canned mandarins, and popular as a fresh fruit due to its ease of consumptionOwari, a well-known Satsuma cultivar that ripens during the late fall seasonClementine, sometimes known as a "Christmas orange", as its peak season is winter; becoming the most important commercial Mandarin orange form, having displaced mikans in many marketsTangerineTangor, also called the temple orange, a cross between the Mandarin orange and the common sweet orange; its thick rind is easy to peel and its bright orange pulp is sour-sweet and full-flavored Canned and peeled mandarin orange segments Kinnow, a variety of Mandarin orange developed by Dr H.B. Frost. Closeup of mandarin treeThe mandarin is easily peeled with the fingers, starting at the thick rind covering the depression at the top of the fruit, and can be easily split into even segments without squirting juice. This makes it convenient to eat, as utensils are not required to peel or cut the fruit. Canned mandarin segments are peeled to remove the white pith prior to canning; otherwise, they turn bitter. Segments are peeled using a chemical process. First, the segments are scalded in hot water to loosen the skin; then they are bathed in a lye solution, which digests the albedo and membranes. Finally, the segments undergo several rinses in plain water.Citrus fruits are usually self-fertile (needing only a bee to move pollen within the same flower) or parthenocarpic (not needing pollination and therefore seedless, such as the satsuma). Blossoms from the Dancy cultivar are one exception. They are self-sterile, and therefore must have a pollinator variety to supply pollen, and a high bee population to make a good crop. The fruit is oblate.Mandarin oranges, particularly Satsumas from Japan, are a Christmas tradition in Canada, as well as the United States and Russia. They are commonly purchased in 5- or 10-pound boxes, individually wrapped in soft green paper, and given in Christmas stockings. This custom goes back to the 1880s, when Japanese immigrants began receiving Japanese mandarin oranges from their families back home as gifts for the New Year. Mandarine has a very complex odour unlike any other citrus oil , it is vibrating fresh orangy and slightly fishy , which makes it very special and unique. Even though it is an expensive oil but you need only very small quantities to make your accords alive. Mandarine is specially very effective for Oriental Accords.

Best known as a culinary herb and an essential ingredient in French, Middle Eastern and prominently in Mediterranean cuisine, Marjoram isn't an unfamiliar herb to food lovers and in kitchen gardens. It is the world of fragrances where perfumers, as composers, to blend their fragrances work with numbers of materials and there marjoram, which is akin to oregano, makes its way into perfume ingredients.It is a perennial herbaceous plant, grown often as an annual because it does not survive well in wet and cold winters. It grows to an upright, compact bush about 20-40 cm in height, with a woody main stem and many softer branches. Leaves are oblong-ovate, soft, matte green with a sweet, spicy, pleasant smell. Flowers are small, whitish or purplish, arranged in terminal clusters. Seeds are minute, oval and dark brown. Crop is usually grown vegetatively through cuttings and can also be grown by seeds..Marjoram (Origanum majorana, syn. Majorana hortensis Moench, Majorana majorana (L.) H. Karst is a somewhat cold-sensitive perennial herb or undershrub with sweet pine and citrus flavors. In some Middle-Eastern countries, marjoram is synonymous with oregano, and there the names sweet marjoram and knotted marjoram are used to distinguish it from other plants of the genus Origanum. The name marjoram (Old French majorane, Medieval Latin majorana) does not directly derive from the Latin word maior (major). Marjoram is indigenous to Cyprus and southern Turkey, and was known to the Greeks and Romans as a symbol of happiness.Marjoram is cultivated for its aromatic leaves, either green or dry, for culinary purposes; the tops are cut as the plants begin to flower and are dried slowly in the shade. It is often used in herb combinations such as herbes de Provence and za'atar. The flowering leaves and tops of marjoram are steam-distilled to produce an essential oil that is yellowish in color (darkening to brown as it ages). It has many chemical components, some of which are borneol, camphor and pinene.Oregano (Origanum vulgare, sometimes listed with marjoram as Origanum majorana) is also called wild marjoram. It is a perennial common in southern Europe in dry copses and on hedge-banks, with many stout stems 30–80 cm high, bearing short-stalked, somewhat ovate leaves and clusters of purple flowers. It has a stronger flavor than marjoram. Pot marjoram or Cretan oregano (Origanum onites) has similar uses to marjoram.Hardy marjoram or French marjoram, a cross of marjoram with oregano, is much more resistant to cold, but is slightly less sweet. Origanum pulchellum is known as showy marjoram or showy oregano.Marjoram might have an effect like a water pill or "diuretic." Taking marjoram might decrease how well the body gets rid of lithium. This could increase how much lithium is in the body and result in serious side effects.marjoram oil has antispasmodic properties, it can assist those with asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough, constipation or migraine headaches. It unquestionably has some very useful properties. Marjoram Sweet is steam distilled from the flowering tops of wild crafted plants.This Marjoram should not be confused with Marjoram Spanish, which is differrent family (Thymus) with a very different chemical profile and activity. .Sweet marjoram essence is obtained through steam distillation of the fresh plant.Used as a modifier in herbaceous and fougere perfumes, as well as masculine and spicy notes.Marjoram Sweet has many uses in Aromatherapy due to it's complex chemical profile. It is well known for it's calming influence, especially for stress and insomnia. It is known for its comforting effect with grief and sorrow. Many even use it in their pain relief blends where it soothes tired, aching, muscles and joints. The perfect choice for your "so you can sleep" night time blends and environmental fragrances.Marjoram finds very little use in perfumery , perhaps some herbal accords where it might make it smell more natural.

Mimosa is a genus of about 400 species of herbs and shrubs, in the subfamily Mimosoideae of the legume family Fabaceae. The generic name is derived from the Greek word µ?µ?? (mimos), meaning "mimic."Two species in the genus are especially notable. One is Mimosa pudica, because of the way it folds its leaves when touched or exposed to heat. It is native to southern Central and South America but is widely cultivated elsewhere for its curiosity value, both as a houseplant in temperate areas, and outdoors in the tropics. Outdoor cultivation has led to weedy invasion in some areas, notably Hawaii. The other is Mimosa tenuiflora, which is best known for its use in shamanic ayahuasca brews due to the psychedelic drug dimethyltryptamine found in its root bark.The taxonomy of the genus Mimosa has had a tortuous history, having gone through periods of splitting and lumping, ultimately accumulating over 3,000 names, many of which have either been synonymized under other species or transferred to other genera. In part due to these changing circumscriptions, the name "Mimosa" has also been applied to several other related species with similar pinnate or bipinnate leaves, but are now classified in other genera, most commonly to Albizia julibrissin (silk tree) and Acacia dealbata (wattle). Members of this genus are among the few plants capable of rapid movement; examples outside of Mimosa include the telegraph plant, and the venus flytrap. The leaves of the plant close quickly when touched. Some mimosas raise their leaves in day and lower them at night, and experiments done by Jacques d'Ortous de Mairan on mimosas in 1729 provided the first evidence of biological clocks.Mimosa can be distinguished from the large related genera, Acacia and Albizia, since its flowers have 10 or fewer stamens. Note that, botanically, what appears to be a single globular flower is actually a cluster of many individual ones. Mimosa contains some level of heptanoic acid. Mimosa pudica L. (Mimosaceae) also referred to as touch me not, live and die, shame plant and humble plant is a prostrate or semi-erect subshrub of tropical America and Australia, also found in India heavily armed with recurved thorns and having sensitive soft grey green leaflets that fold and droop at night or when touched and cooled.These unique bending movements have earned it a status of ‘curiosity plant’. It appears to be a promising herbal candidate to undergo further exploration as evident from its pharmacological profile. It majorly possesses antibacterial, antivenom, antifertility, anticonvulsant, antidepressant, aphrodisiac, and various other pharmacological activities. The herb has been used traditionally for ages, in the treatment of urogenital disorders, piles, dysentery, sinus, and also applied on wounds. This work is an attempt to explore and compile the different pharmacognostic aspects of the action plant M. pudica reported till date. Plant leaf movements can be mediated by specialized motor organs, the pulvini or can be epinastic (i.e. based on different growth velocities of the adaxial and abaxial halves of the leaf).Both processes are associated with diurnally regulated increase in the rates of membrane water transport, which in many cases, has been shown to be facilitated by aquaporins. Rhythmic leaf movements are known from many plant species but more recently a promising model plant to study pulvinus-mediated leaf movements is M. pudica. The contribution of both plasma membrane and tonoplast localized aquaporins to the seismonastic leaf movements in M. pudica has been analyzed.Mimosa is one of the most beautiful floral absolutes that I had the pleasure to work with , the price to performance ratio is exceptional. It can add depth and beauty to almost any accord , though a slight overdose will kill the accord.

Myrrh from the Arabic 'mur', is the aromatic resin of a number of small, thorny tree species of the genus Commiphora. which is an essential oil termed an oleoresin. Myrrh resin is a natural gum. It has been used throughout history as a perfume, incense and medicine. It can also be ingested by mixing it with wine.When a tree wound penetrates through the bark and into the sapwood, the tree bleeds a resin. Myrrh gum, like frankincense, is such a resin. When people harvest myrrh, they wound the trees repeatedly to bleed them of the gum. Myrrh gum is waxy, and coagulates quickly. After the harvest, the gum becomes hard and glossy.The gum is yellowish, and may be either clear or opaque. It darkens deeply as it ages, and white streaks emerge.Myrrh gum is commonly harvested from the species Commiphora myrrha, which is native to Yemen, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Ethiopia.Another commonly used name, Commiphora molmol, is now considered a synonym of Commiphora myrrha.The related Commiphora gileadensis, native to Eastern Mediterranean and particularly the Arabian Peninsula, is the biblically referenced Balm of Gilead,also known as Balsam of Mecca. Several other species yield bdellium and Indian myrrh.The oleo gum resins of a number of other Commiphora species are also used as perfumes, medicines (such as aromatic wound dressings), and incense ingredients. These myrrh-like resins are known as opopanax, balsam, bdellium, guggul and bisabol.Fragrant "myrrh beads" are made from the crushed seeds of Detarium microcarpum, an unrelated West African tree. These beads are traditionally worn by married women in Mali as multiple strands around the hips.The name "myrrh" is also applied to the potherb Myrrhis odorata, otherwise known as "cicely" or "sweet cicely".Myrrh is also found in the Christian Bible as one of the three gifts the wise men presented to baby Jesus.Myrrh is used more frequently in Ayurveda and Unani medicine, which ascribe tonic and rejuvenative properties to the resin.It (daindhava) is utilized in many specially processed rasayana formulas in Ayurveda. However, non-rasayana myrrh is contraindicated when kidney dysfunction or stomach pain is apparent.Myrrh was an ingredient of Ketoret, the consecrated incense used in the First and Second Temples at Jerusalem, as described in the Hebrew Bible and Talmud. An offering was made of the Ketoret on a special incense altar, and was an important component of the Temple service.Myrrh is also listed as an ingredient in the holy anointing oil used to anoint the Tabernacle, high priests and kings.Myrrh is an expensive spice, used for making perfume, incense, medicine, and for anointing the dead.Myrrh appears frequently in the Old Testament, primarily as a sensuous perfume in the Song of Solomon.The sap like substance, which has a unique sweet and smoky aroma, has a wide range of uses.Myrrh is mainly used:as a fragrancefor embalmingto flavor food productsfor its potential therapeutic properties.The essential oil has been part of medical practice in traditional therapies for millennia.Myrrh Absolute or Oil is a complete fragrance in itself , it blends wonderfully with heavy florals and makes unique accords with Patchouli and Sandalwood. Exceptional in burning , this was one of the material along with Olibanum that were first used in Churches as fragrances. The warm fruity mango like with a hint of spice odour of Myrrh is captivating . Oriental Blends will benefit with the addition of this material.

Narcissus is a botanical name for the sort of springtime bulbous plant of amaryllis family, Amaryllidaceae. There are around 26 of wild and several hundreds of cultivated variances, and although it is mainly considered to be a spring-time flower, some sorts bloom in autumn. Sorts are different by color, shape and size. The flower can be yellow or white, but also combined white and yellow, orange, red, and pink. The flowers, growing on a strong stalk, can be star-shaped or trumpet shaped, simple or multi-flowered. The leaves are long and light-green. Narcissus is a genus of mainly hardy, mostly spring-flowering, bulbous perennials in the Amaryllis family, subfamily Amaryllidoideae. Various common names including daffodil, narcissus, and jonquil are used to describe all or some of the genus.Various common names including daffodil, narcissus, and jonquil are used to describe all or some of the genus. They are native to meadows and woods in Europe, North Africa and West Asia, with a center of distribution in the Western Mediterranean. The number of distinct species varies widely depending on how they are classified, with the disparity due to similarity between species and hybridization between species. The number of defined species ranges from 26 to more than 60, depending on the authority. Species and hybrids are widely used in gardens and landscapes.The derivation of the Latin narcissus (from the ancient Greek ?????ss??) is unknown. It may be a loanword from another language. It is frequently linked to the Greek myth of Narcissus, who became so obsessed with his own reflection that as he knelt and gazed into a pool of water, he fell into the water and drowned.In some variations, he died of starvation and thirst. In both versions, the narcissus plant sprang from where he died. However, there is no evidence for this popular derivation, and the person's name may have come from the flower's name. Pliny wrote that the plant was named for its narcotic properties (?a???? narkao, "I grow numb" in Greek). Again, this explanation lacks any real proof and is largely discredited."Narcissus" is the most commonly used plural, but "narcissi" and "narcissuses" are also acceptable plurals in both British and American English usage. Narcissus grow from pale brown-skinned spherical bulbs with pronounced necks. The leafless stems, appearing from early to late spring depending on the species, bear from 1 to 20 blooms. Each flower has a central bell-, bowl-, or disc-shaped corona surrounded by a ring of six floral leaves called the perianth which is united into a tube at the forward edge of the 3-locular ovary. The three outer segments are sepals, and the three inner segments are petals. Flower colour varies from white through yellow to deep orange. Breeders have developed some daffodils with double, triple, or ambiguously multiple rows and layers of segments, and several wild species also have known double variants.The seeds are black, round and swollen with a hard coat.One of the most common dermatitis problems for florists, "daffodil itch" involves dryness, fissures, scaling, and erythema in the hands, often accompanied by subungual hyperkeratosis (thickening of the skin beneath the nails). It is blamed on exposure to calcium oxalate in the sap.One of the most expensive absolutes in the lab , but mere traces in a blend can do wonders. Traces in Musks especially White Musks for Fragrances will smell delightful with traces of this material. Jasmine accords will be boosted tremendously by this wonderful material.

Neroli is a plant oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium subsp. amara or Bigaradia). Its scent is sweet, honeyed and somewhat metallic, whereas bergamot, being rich in linalool (which is the main component in lavender), has more of an aromatic, soft floralcy.The blossoms are gathered, usually by hand, in late April to early May. The oil is produced by water distillation, as the blossom is too fragile to endure distillation with direct steam.By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of Bracciano and princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter orange tree as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term "neroli" has been used to describe this essence. Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, spicy aroma with sweet and flowery notes.It is one of the most widely used floral oils in perfumery. It is a nontoxic, nonirritant, nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic substance. It blends well with any citrus oil, various floral absolutes, and most of the synthetic components available on the market. Neroli oil is a classic element in fragrance design and one of the most commonly used in the industry.It is also has a limited use in flavourings. Neroli oil is reportedly one of the ingredients in the closely guarded secret recipe for the Coca-Cola soft drink.It is a flavoring ingredient of open source cola recipes, although some variants consider it as optional, owing to the high cost. Due to its linalool content, neroli is considered to have a soothing effect on the nervous system.Traditionally, neroli oil was used not only to relieve tension and anxiety, but also to increase circulation. A solution is made by adding three or four drops of the essential oil to one cup of either sweet almond oil or wheat germ oil. If the solution is to be used on children or pregnant women, only half the quantity of essential oil should be used. Beautiful floral oils soothes, relaxes, uplifts the spirit and helps maintain confidence. Exquisite aroma. Excellent skin care oil, perfect for aging, dry sensitive skin and on scars and stretch marks. Soothes palpitations of the heart and cleanses the blood, improving circulation - generally a very good tonic.Linalol, Linalyl acetate, Limonene, Pinene, Nerolidol, Geraniol, Nerol, Indole, Citral, Jasmone.Very relaxing but not suitable when a clear head and concentration are needed.Oil of Neroli is obtained from the flowers of the bitter orange (Citrus Vulgaris), the Seville orange, and it takes its name from that of an Italian princess who used it as her favourite perfume. The active principles of the oil include nerol, geraniol, indol, j.ismone, and anthranilic, enzoic and phenylacetic esters. The essential oil is usually produced by the ENFLEURAGE method, though sometimes steam distillation is used, and it is thick and deep brown in colour. The scent is of a bitter-sweet nature, as one might expect from its origins, and is not always liked in the concentrated form of the essential oil. However, once it has been suitably diluted as a massage oil, bath oil or in skin creams, etc., it is one of the most hauntingly beautiful of all those used in aromatherapy. It is widely used in commercial perfumery, and is another of the ingredients of true eau de cologne.It is antidepressant, antiseptic, antispasmodic and aphrodisiac and a gentle sedative. Neroli is a beauty , complex citrus floral slightly herbal. Absolutely Beautiful . In combination with Orange Flower Absolute makes a great combination. The use of Neroli oil is only for High End Fragrances where even traces of this material has a marked effect. Obviously colognes will smell more natural and complete with this material.

The nutmeg tree is any of several species of trees in genus Myristica. The most important commercial species is Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree indigenous to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas of Indonesia.The nutmeg tree is any of several species of trees in genus Myristica. The most important commercial species is Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree indigenous to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas (or Spice Islands) of Indonesia.Nutmeg is the seed of the tree, roughly egg-shaped and about 20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 in) long and 15 to 18 mm (0.6 to 0.7 in) wide, and weighing between 5 and 10 g (0.2 and 0.4 oz) dried, while mace is the dried "lacy" reddish covering or aril of the seed. The first harvest of nutmeg trees takes place 7–9 years after planting, and the trees reach full production after twenty years. Nutmeg is usually used in powdered form. This is the only tropical fruit that is the source of two different spices. Several other commercial products are also produced from the trees, including essential oils, extracted oleoresins, and nutmeg butter. The common or fragrant nutmeg, Myristica fragrans, native to the Banda Islands of Indonesia, is also grown in Penang Island in Malaysia and the Caribbean, especially in Grenada. It also grows in Kerala, a state in southern India. Other species of nutmeg include Papuan nutmeg M. argentea from New Guinea, and M. malabarica from India.Nutmeg is a dioecious plant which is propagated sexually and asexually, the latter being the standard. Sexual propagation by seedling yields 50% male seedlings, which are unproductive. As there is no reliable method of determining plant sex before flowering in the sixth to eighth year, and sexual propagation bears inconsistent yields, grafting is the preferred method of propagation. Epicotyl grafting, approach grafting and patch budding have proved successful, epicotyl grafting being the most widely adopted standard. Air-layering, or marcotting, is an alternative, though not preferred, method, because of its low (35-40%) success rate.Nutmeg and mace have similar sensory qualities, with nutmeg having a slightly sweeter and mace a more delicate flavour. Mace is often preferred in light dishes for the bright orange, saffron-like hue it imparts. Nutmeg is used for flavouring many dishes, usually in ground or grated form, and is best grated fresh in a nutmeg grater. Ground nutmeg is also smoked in India.The essential oil obtained by steam distillation of ground nutmeg is used widely in the perfumery and pharmaceutical industries. The essential oil is also used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, for instance, in toothpaste, and as a major ingredient in some cough syrups. In traditional medicine, nutmeg and nutmeg oil were used for disorders related to the nervous and digestive systems.After extraction of the essential oil, the remaining seed, containing much less flavour, is called "spent". Spent is often mixed in industrial mills with pure nutmeg to facilitate the milling process, as nutmeg is not easy to mill due to the high percentage of oil in the pure seed. Ground nutmeg with a variable percentage of spent (around 10% w/w) is also less likely to clot. To obtain a better running powder also a small percentage of rice flour can be added. Nutmeg Oil is so widely used in perfumery that it has become one of the most important ingredients in the perfumers lab. BMV offers Nutmeg Absolute that has a totally different profile that the oil , its warm spicy waxy and somewhat floral odour is truly remarkable. It works beautifully with florals even. BMV was perhaps the first manufacturer to start producing this material alongwith Cardamom Absolute.The potential of this material is still to be fully exploited.

Evernia prunastri, also known as Oakmoss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and much of Central Europe. Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine. The thalli of Oakmoss are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, and grow together on bark to form large clumps. Oakmoss thallus is flat and strap-like. They are also highly branched, resembling the form of deer antlers. The colour of Oakmoss ranges from green to a greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture of the thalli are rough when dry and rubbery when wet. It is used extensively in modern perfumery. Oakmoss is commercially harvested in countries of South-Central Europe and usually exported to the Grasse region of France where its fragrant compounds are extracted as Oakmoss absolutes and extracts. These raw materials are often used as perfume fixatives and form the base notes of many fragrances. They are also key components of Fougère and Chypre class perfumes. The lichen has a distinct and complex odor and can be described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet. Oakmoss growing on pines have a pronounced turpentine odor that is valued in certain perfume compositions.Oakmoss should be avoided by people with known skin sensitization issues.n inky, bitter-smelling forest floor evocative, prized essence coming from the lichen that grows on oak trees in Europe (harvested in the Balkans). Nowadays severely restricted under skin sensitization concerns, it is nevertheless an essential part of chypre fragrances and fougère fragrances.Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials, especially in chypre and Fougère types of perfumes. Often used as a fixative, it not only improves the longevity of the composition but also lends a delicate forest-like, rich and earthy aroma to the fragrant composition, leaving a natural, damp and creamy soft trail. This raw material is usually commercially grown in South-Central Europe and exported to Grasse in France, where the majority of the perfumery houses are situated. Oakmoss absolutes and extracts, derived from the lichen, have a distinctively woody, sharp and very sensual aroma that combines very well with floral and green notes, and makes a great addition to oriental type fragrances. A special type of oakmoss which grows on pine trees has a slightly different, turpentine-like smell, which makes it highly valued among perfumers.Oakmoss absolute can be obtained by solvent extraction or by using vacuum distillation. The one obtained by solvent extraction is dark green or even brown in color and has a strong, natural, earthy-mossy scent with a slight leather undertone.One of the most beautiful material but sadly now after the ban , has been removed from most major fragrances. NO synthetic of any kind can give the complete picture of Oakmoss. A forest note that was one of the ingredients alongwith Lavander and Geranium to make a new family of fragrances , namely Fougeres. The most popular and largest family for Mens fragrances. Alongwith musks and Patchouli forms longlasting bases. In fact one of the most tenacious naturals known , the smell on the blotter can last upto a year !!!Expecially useful in accords where a lot of chemicals are present , as it can take away the rough edges of chemicals and can make the accord smell natural. Invaluable in Amber Bases.

Olibanum also known as Frankincense, is an aromatic resin obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia, particularly Boswellia sacra, B. carteri, B. thurifera, B. frereana and B. bhaw-dajiana (Burseraceae). The English word is derived from Old French "franc encens" (i.e., high quality incense) and is used in incense and perfumes.There are four main species of Boswellia that produce true frankincense and resin from each of the four is available in various grades. The grades depend on the time of harvesting. The resin is hand-sorted for quality.Frankincense is mentioned in the Bible as one of the three gifts the wise men gave to the young child Jesus.Frankincense is tapped from the scraggly but hardy trees by slashing the bark, which is called striping, and allowing the exuded resin to bleed out and harden. These hardened resins are called tears. There are several species and varieties of frankincense trees, each producing a slightly different type of resin. Differences in soil and climate create even more diversity of the resin, even within the same species. Boswellia Sacra trees are considered unusual for their ability to grow in environments so unforgiving that they sometimes grow out of solid rock. This growth prevents it from being ripped from the rock during violent storms that frequent this region.This feature is slight or absent in trees grown in rocky soil or gravel. The trees start producing resin when they are about eight to 10 years old.Olibanum is characterized by a balsamic-spicy, slightly lemon, fragrance of incense, with a conifer-like undertone. It is used in the perfume, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.The essential oil of frankincense is produced by steam distillation of the tree resin. The oil's chemical components are 75% monoterpenes ( mainly Alpha Thujene), sesquiterpenes, monoterpenoles, sesquiterpenols, and ketones. It has a good balsamic sweet fragrance, while the Indian frankincense oil has a very fresh smell. Steam or hydro distilled frankincense oil does contain a number of boswellic acids (triterpenoids) which represents a method of validating the authenticity of the essential oil.BMV is the only manufacturer making Pure & Natural Distilled Olibanum Oil and Olibanum Absolute(Ex boswellia serrata). It was BMV that introduced this oil to the world way back in 1995 and now has become the largest processor of Indian Olibanum Gum for Perfumery Purposes.The oil is highly terpenic , it is used in traces for a top note effect and helps Rose Accords to obtain a natural top note. But the largest use is for Burning as this is one of the best for this application.

Opoponax or sweet myrrh is a cousin of the healing Myrrh—Commiphora Myrrha—with a warm-balsamic and sweet, honey-like aroma. It is a natural oleo-gum-resin like myrrh and frankincense. The color of its resin is brown; however, good quality crude botanical resin is dark red. Opoponax has been a component of incense and perfumes since Biblical times. Talking of perfumery in particular, Opoponax qualities from several Commiphora are widely used, especially in oriental fragrances, to impart sweet balsamic notes..Opopanax (also: Opoponax) refers to a number of gum resins with medicinal properties.In perfumery, opopanax refers to the resin obtained from Commiphora erythraea Engl. var. glabrescens Engl., a tree growing in Somalia. A resinoid is prepared from the resin by solvent extraction. Steam distillation of the resin gives the essential oil, which has a warm, sweet, balsamic odor. Opopanax oil and resinoid are used in perfumes with oriental characteristics.African opopanax is the resin of Commiphora kataf .Opopanax, a major export article from Somalia since ancient times, is also known as bisabol - bissa bol (Hindi) and as hebbakhade - habak hadi (Somali). "bissa bol" (Hindi) is scented myrrh, in contrast to "heera bol", bitter myrrh. However, the botanical origin of bisabol is Commiphora guidottii (Burseraceae) and not Commiphora erythraea, as generally has been presumed.Opopanax is also known as "perfumed bdellium". Talking further of Commiphora guidottii Chiov., it is also known as scented myrrh. It is a yellowish-red sweet-smelling resin. And of its use from Ancient Romans, they used it as incense in temples. It is fairly widespread in Somalia and in adjacent parts of the Ogaden in Ethiopia, and speaking of its export, Somalia is considered the major exporter of scented myrrh at present. Its shrub or tree grows up to 5 m tall and has greenish or brownish peeling bark. The leaves are composed of 3 or 5-7 leaflets, 2.5 x 10 cm long when fully mature and oval to broadly oval in shape. The flowers are cream in color and very small, being only a few mm wide at most. The fruit is rounded, about 1 cm in diameter and contains a single stone.Extraction of the opoponax is done through the tapping of trees just as that of frankincense and myrrh by making incisions in the bark and also by breaking of the twigs. A gum seeps out of these incisions which then solidifies to brown lumps. Opoponax extract is obtained by solvent extraction or steam distillation from the gum exudate of the barks, which includes all types of extracts, tinctures, concretes, resinoids, pomades, absolutes, rectified extracts etc.While the oil is distilled by dry-distillation or steam-distillation, flash pasteurization etc., it includes all types of essential oils obtained by the these methods. Opoponax oil is a useful material in perfumery which is sweet, balsamic and almost effervescent in character. It is mainly used in oriental accords and also gives a sweet lift to chypre fragrances as a top note. Whereas, its absolute is used as base note. The olfactory difference between myrrh oil and opopanax oil is the vegetable-soup-like, slightly animalic-sweet odor of opopanax oil compared with the medicinal-sharp freshness of myrrh oil. But still the odours are quite comparable and the usagealso is quite similar.

Orris root is a term used for the roots Iris pallida. Once important in western herbal medicine, it is now used mainly as a fixative and base note in perfumery, the most widely used fixative for potpourri. Orris is also an ingredient in many brands of gin. After an initial drying period, which can take five years or more depending on the use, the root is ground. For potpourri, this powder is used without further processing. For other uses, it is dissolved in water and then distilled. One ton of iris root produces two kilos of essential oil, also referred to as orris root butter, making it a highly-prized substance. Its fragrance has been described as tenaciously flowery, heavy and woody.Typical iris perfumes (where orris prevails over the other components) are: "Orris Noir" by the London-based perfume house contains regular orris root oil, not the oil of Iris nigricans, which is an endangered species.The root is used to make medicine. Orris root is generally used in combination with other herbs and can be found in homeopathic dilutions and tea preparations. Orris root is used for “blood-purifying,” “gland-stimulating,” increasing kidney activity, stimulating appetite and digestion, and increasing bile flow. It is also used for headache, toothache, muscle and joint pain, migraine, constipation, bloating, diabetes, and skin diseases. Some people use orris root to treat bronchitis, colds, cancer, back pain caused by the sciatic nerve (sciatica), and swelling (inflammation) of the spleen. It is also used to cause vomiting, empty the bowels, and promote calmness.Orris root is sometimes applied directly to the affected area for bad breath, nasal polyps, teething, tumors, scars, muscle and joint pain, burns, and cuts. Historically, orris root was highly prized in the perfume industry. The root develops a pleasant violet-like scent when it dries. This scent continues to improve in storage, reaching its peak in about three years. Orris root was widely used in face powders and other cosmetics until people noticed it was causing allergic reactions. Orris root powder is still used extensively in potpourris, sachets, and pomanders. It even prolongs the scent of the other oils.Superstition has long held that the orris root can be used to find and hold love. Orris root has also been used in tinctures to flavour syrups.Today, powdered orris root is used in cosmetic preparations and as a fixative in herbal sachets and pot pourri. The whole orris root is carried, the powder is added to sachets, sprinkled on sheets, clothing and the body, and around the house. Orris root powder is sometimes called "Love Drawing Powder".In cuisine, orris root is often included as one of the many ingredients of Ras el hanout, a blend of herbs and spices used across the Middle East and North Africa, particulary in Morocco.

Agarwood, also known as oud, oodh or agar, is a dark resinous heartwood that forms in Aquilaria and Gyrinops trees (large evergreens native to southeast Asia) when they become infected with a type of mould. Prior to infection, the heartwood is relatively light and pale coloured; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin embedded heartwood.The resin embedded wood is commonly called gaharu, jinko, aloeswood, agarwood, or oud (not to be confused with 'Bakhoor') and is valued in many cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes.First-grade agarwood is one of the most expensive natural raw materials in the world. A whole range of qualities and products are on the market, varying in quality with geographical location and cultural deposition. Oud oil is distilled from agarwood, it fetches high prices depending on the oil's purity. The current global market for agarwood is estimated to be in the range of US$ 6 – 8 billion and is growing rapidly.There are seventeen species in the genus Aquilaria and eight are known to produce agarwood. In theory agarwood can be produced from all members; however, until recently it was primarily produced from A. malaccensis. A. agallocha and A. secundaria are synonyms for A. malaccensis. A. crassna and A. sinensis are the other two members of the genus that are usually harvested. Agarwood is reputed to be the most expensive wood in the world. There are many names for the resinous, fragrant heartwood produced primarily by trees in the genus Aquilaria. Most commonly, the resin is known as agarwood, aloeswood, eaglewood, gaharu, agalocha or oudh (In Arabic).Agarwood has been used to make high quality incense since centuries. The Chinese describe its smell as "a sweet, deep but balanced fragrance" and use it in religious and festive celebrations, and so do Arabian, Indian and Japanese people.Agarwood is also part of many traditional pharmacopoeias, dating back to medieval times and Chinese doctors still prescribe it for colds and disgestion problem. Oil extracted from agarwood is used in Arabian countries as a perfume. The Indian sub-continent was the main source of agarwood for many centuries but as trees became scarce in the middle of the twentieth century, extraction intensified in Indochina. Later on it was extended to Indonesia and Malaysia. Today Agarwood plantations exist in a number of countries, including Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Laos, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, Thailand and Vietnam.It can grow on a wide range of soils, including poor sandy soil. Seedlings of most species establish best in shady, moist conditions, but large adult trees sometimes become emergent in the forest and can withstand full sun. Some species can be found growing on steep, rocky, exposed slopes, and in regions that experience a hot, dry season. The trees grow to 6-20 m tall.The leaves are alternate, 5-11 cm long and 2-4 cm broad, with a short acuminate apex and an entire margin. The flowers are yellowish-green, produced in an umbel, the fruit is a woody capsule 2.5-3 cm long. At least fifteen species of Aquilaria trees are known to produce Agarwood. The smell of Oud cannot be described in words , one of the most complex odours showing Animalic , mossy , woody , forest , moist and lingering. Currently most of the manufacturers are marketing a fragrance with this oil or in most cases a substitute. Together with Rose , Patchouli and Sandalwood , and a touch of Saffron will form a beautiful mukhallat.

Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin; also patchouly or pachouli) is a species of plant from the genus Pogostemon. Patchouli belongs to mint family. This wonderful herb is green bushy. The genus of patchouli is Pogostemon and it may grows up to two or three feet in height. The flower color of this herb is delicate pinkish-white. The leafs are aromatic and are being used in perfumery since long long ago. The leafs have a strong and wonderful scent characteristics. The native place of Patchouli is tropical regions of Asia, but patchouli grows in all warm to tropical climates very well. Currently all Asia cultivate many many varieties of the Pogostemon genus. Aromatic oil known in West Africa and South America as patchouli oil.The origination of the term patchouli comes from very ancient Tamil words patchai, which means "green", and ellai means "leaf". The native land of this herb, is easily identified by it's name which is Dravidian. The Dravidian language is being spoken by mostly Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret.Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world.It is a bushy herb of the mint family, with erect stems, reaching two or three feet (about 0.75 metre) in height and bearing small, pale pink-white flowers.The heavy and strong scent of patchouli has been used for centuries in perfumes and, more recently, in incense, insect repellents, and alternative medicines. Pogostemon cablin, P. commosum, P. hortensis, P. heyneasus and P. plectranthoides are all cultivated for their essential oil, known as patchouli oil.Patchouli grows well in warm to tropical climates. It thrives in hot weather but not direct sunlight. If the plant withers due to lack of water, it will recover well and quickly after rain or watering. The seed-producing flowers are very fragrant and blossom in late fall. The tiny seeds may be harvested for planting, but they are very delicate and easily crushed. Cuttings from the mother plant can also be rooted in water to produce additional plants. Extraction of patchouli's essential oil is by steam distillation of the leaves, requiring rupture of its cell walls by steam scalding, light fermentation, or drying.Leaves may be harvested several times a year and, when dried, may be exported for distillation. Some sources claim the best quality oil is usually produced from fresh leaves distilled close to where they are harvested; others that baling the dried leaves and fermenting them for a period of time is best. Patchouli is used widely in modern perfumery and modern scented industrial products such as paper towels, laundry detergents, and air fresheners. Two important components of its essential oil are patchoulol and norpatchoulenol. Patchouli is an important ingredient in East Asian incense. Both patchouli oil and incense underwent a surge in popularity in the 1960s and 1970s in the US and Europe, mainly as a result of the hippie movement of those decades.A must have in any perfumers arsenal, especially the Patchouli NNO offered by BMV.

Petitgrain is an essential oil that is extracted from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange plant (Citrus aurantium var. amara) via steam distillation.Its main regions of production are Paraguay and France, with the former's product being of higher odour tenacity. Petitgrain oil (fr. little grain) gains its name from the fact that it used to be extracted from the small unripe oranges of the plant. The oil has a greenish woody orange smell that is widely used in perfumery and found in colognes.Though distilled from the same botanical species as neroli and bitter orange, Petitgrain Essential Oil possesses its own characteristically unique aroma. Petitgrain Essential Oil is distilled from the leaves and sometimes the twigs and branches of the tree whereas neroli essential oil is distilled from the blossoms and Orange Essential Oil is typically cold pressed from the rinds of the fruits. The main constituents of petitgrain oil are geraniol, geranyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, myrcene, nerol, neryl acetate, and terpineol.Citrus fruits are treasure troves of wonderful medicinal properties and this has earned them a significant place in the world of aromatherapy and herbal medicines. Time and again we find another essential oil derived from our well-known citrus fruit, none other than the refreshing and the thirst-quenching “Orange”. The botanical name of orange is Citrus Aurantium. You might think that we have already studied the essential oil derived from orange. The question, therefore, is how is this one different?The Essential Oil of Oranges is extracted from the peels of oranges by cold compression, while the Essential Oil of Petitgrain is extracted from the fresh leaves and young and tender twigs of orange tree through steam distillation. The chief constituents of this oil are gamma terpineol, geraniol, geranyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, myrcene, neryl acetate and trans ocimene. You might also remember that Neroli Essential Oil is also derived from the flowers of oranges. No part of this citrus plant goes to waste. It is extremely beneficial. Are you still confused regarding its name? This oil was previously extracted from green and young oranges, which were the size of peas – hence the name Petitgrain. This oil is extensively used in the perfume and cosmetics industries, as well as in food and beverages as a flavouring agent, due to its remarkable aroma.Apart from being used in aromatherapy, the Petitgrain oil has numerous uses in herbal medicine. The refreshing, energizing, and delightfully woody yet floral fragrance of Petitgrain Essential Oil does not leave any trace of body odour. It also curbs the growth of bacteria in those parts of the body that are always subjected to heat and sweat and remain covered by clothes so sunlight cannot reach them. In this way, this essential oil prevents body odour and various skin infections which result from these bacterial growths. It is good for maintaining the moisture and oil balance of the skin as well as for treating acne, pimples, abnormal sweating (those who suffer from nervousness have this problem), dryness and cracking of the skin, and ring worm. It also soothes nausea since it is an anti-emetic. When used in the summer, it gives a cool and refreshing feeling.Petitgrain with its unique citrus , slightly bitter and faintly rice like odour is excellent for modifying citrus notes in colognes and mens fragrances. Very useful for Toilet Soap Compounds.

The distilled essence of organically grown Rosa damascena flowers in the Himalayan mountains of India is a rare and precious aromatic treat. Currently only a few innovative farmers are engaged in growing in distilling Rosa damascena in several remote areas but the oil that they produce is of a remarkably lovely quality.This precious essential rose oil, like Rosa damascena otto distilled in several other countries like Bulgaria, South Africa and Turkey, is a clear, transparent liquid when temperatures are warmer but as soon as cooler temperatures prevail becomes a solid or semi solid waxy mass due to the presence of steroptenes-floral waxes that come over in the process of distillation.These floral waxes play in an important role in stablizing the oil and giving it good radiant strength over a long period of time. The are a natural fixative for the highly volatile aromatic constituents of the oil. The essential oil displays an incredibly rich, ethereal, sweet, deep, warm, full floral bouquet with a slightly spicy-honeyed undertone. As it ages the harmony of the different aromatic molecules that compose the total oil become more and more harmonious and integrated creating an aura of perfect floral beauty.The radiation of Ruh Gulab is unique an surprising. It grows from a quiet aromatic center and spreads silently into the atmosphere but suddenly one is engulfed in its magnetic sphere. If one goes out of the room in which a small drop of oil is suffusing itself in to the environment and then returns after a few minutes then they will receive a unique type of invisible aromatic bath that it is immensely refreshing and satisfying.Ruh Gulab is a very complex, sweet floral scent. The reputation of Rose Flower Absolute of being a must ingredient in perfumes is well deserved. Rosa Damascena Absolute is important to note that all absolutes are extremely concentrated by nature. They should not be evaluated in this state unless you are accustomed to the undiluted fragrance. It is also known as Gulab Attar. Noorjahan the wife of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir is famous for having invented the attar of Roses. This is prepared from fresh flowers and suitable for all climates and occasions. It is used in Sweet supari, Cosmetics compounds and Cosmetic Products. Rose oil obtained from the fresh flowers of Rosa Damascena, cultivated in Uttar Pradesh, India.It is a transparent pale yellow mobile liquid. This oil is valued in the preparation of high grade perfumery and cosmetic Products. The main constituent being Rose Oxide, I-citronellol, nerol, Geraniol, phenyl ethyl alchohol. Rose otto can be used with a great variety of natural aromatics including agarwood/oud eo and co2; amberi attar; ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; auraucaria eo; bakul attar; beeswax absolute, benzoin abs; bois de rose/rosewood eo; boronia abs; citrus oils; carnation abs; cassie abs; clary sage eo and abs; clove bud eo, co2 and abs; fir balsam abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and geranium oil and abs; hay abs; guaicwood oil; hina flower attar; jasmine abs (grandiflorum, auriculatum and sambac); jonquil abs; lavender, co2 and abs; lavindin and abs; mimosa abs; musk, black attar; nagarmotha and co2; narcissus abs; neroli ; night queen abs and attar; oakmoss abs; opoponax and abs; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; patchouli , co2 and abs rose oils and abs(damascena, bourbonia, centifolia); ruh kewda and kewda attar; saffron attar and co2; sandalwood, co2 and abs; shamama attar; siamwood; styrax and abs; tonka bean abs; tuberose attar and abs; vanilla abs; vetiver, co2 and abs;violet leaf abs; ylang, co2 and abs. In perfumery ruh gulab/rose otto is used in Oriental bouquets, high class colognes, high class floral perfumes, literary perfumes, culinary creations, chypres, sacred perfumes, mythological creations.

A pimiento or cherry pepper is a variety of large, red, heart-shaped chili pepper that measures 3 to 4 inches long and 2 to 3 inches wide. The flesh of the pimiento is sweet, succulent, and more aromatic than that of the red bell pepper.Some varieties of the pimiento type are hot, including the Floral Gem and Santa Fe Grande varieties.The seeds can be sown in pots in the house six to eight weeks before setting outside to harden before planting in the soil. Do not plant them where tomatoes, potatoes or eggplant had been planted, as all are members of the nightshade family. This can cause diseases relative to that family. The plants are very susceptible to frost and will set fruit when temperatures are over 60 degrees F. The plants do not like water on their leaves and will abort the flower pollen if kept too wet resulting in no fruits. Pimiento is a Spanish loanword. Pimento or pimentao are Portuguese words for "bell pepper," while pimenta refers to peppercorns and chili peppers are known as "piri piri" or "malagueta." It is typically used fresh, or pickled and jarred. The pimento has one of the lowest Scoville scale ratings of any chili pepper."Sweet" (i.e., neither sour nor savory) pimiento peppers are also the familiar red stuffing found in prepared, Spanish, green olives. Originally, the pimiento was hand-cut into tiny pieces, then hand-stuffed into each olive to balance-out the olive's otherwise strong/salty flavor. Despite the popularity of the combination, this production method was very costly and time-intensive. In the industrial era, the cut pimiento was shot (via hydraulic pump) into one end of each olive, simultaneously inserting the pimento in the center while ejecting the pit (out the other end).More recently, for ease of production, pimientos are often puréed then (re-)formed into tiny strips, with the help of a natural gum (such as sodium alginate or guar gum). This allows olive stuffing to be mechanized, speeding the process and lowering production costs. However, guar (an annual legume mostly produced in India) may inadvertently make the olives less accessible to consumers with peanut allergies and legume allergies, as those individuals may have a reaction to the guar. This leaves sodium alginate as a more universal choice.Pimientos are commonly used for making pimento cheese, affectionately known as "the Caviar of the South" in the Southern United States and the Philippines. It is also used for making pimento loaf, a type of processed sandwich meat.Large red cherry peppers can first be harvested approximately 80 days after transplanting, and will gradually transition from green to bright red at full maturity (around 100 days). The small peppers have a diameter of approximately 1 ½ inches, and are among the mildest chili peppers, typically showing a Scoville heat rating of less than 500 units. Pimento peppers are commonly used as the filling inside commercially available green olives. The plants themselves usually do not grow higher than 24" and are well-suited for container growing."Alma Paprika" is a pimento-type pepper that is rather unusual, in that the immature peppers are cream colored rather than green. "Tennessee Cheese" is fairly large, and has a moderate DTM for ripe peppers. The walls are thick & have a low moisture content, so you can chop them without them turning into mush... which makes it great for canned salsa. The ripe flavor is not really sweet, I guess I would call it "smokey". It doesn't taste hot.

Rosmarinus officinalis, commonly known as rosemary, is a woody, perennial herb with fragrant, evergreen, needle-like leaves and white, pink, purple, or blue flowers, native to the Mediterranean region. It is a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, which includes many other herbs. The name "rosemary" derives from the Latin for "dew" (ros) and "sea" (marinus), or "dew of the sea". The plant is also sometimes called anthos, from the ancient Greek word ?????, meaning "flower".Rosmarinus officinalis is one of 2-4 species in the genus Rosmarinus'. The other species most often recognized is the closely related, Rosmarinus eriocalyx, of the Maghreb of Africa and Iberia. The genus was named by the 18th-century naturalist and founding taxonomist Carolus Linnaeus.Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen shrub that has leaves similar to hemlock needles. The leaves are used as a flavoring in foods such as stuffings and roast lamb, pork, chicken and turkey. It is native to the Mediterranean and Asia, but is reasonably hardy in cool climates. It can withstand droughts, surviving a severe lack of water for lengthy periods. Forms range from upright to trailing; the upright forms can reach 1.5 m (5 ft) tall, rarely 2 m (6 ft 7 in). The leaves are evergreen, 2–4 cm (0.8–1.6 in) long and 2–5 mm broad, green above, and white below, with dense, short, woolly hair. The plant flowers in spring and summer in temperate climates, but the plants can be in constant bloom in warm climates; flowers are white, pink, purple or deep blue.Rosemary is used as a decorative plant in gardens and has many culinary and medical uses. The plant is said to improve the memory. The leaves are used to flavor various foods, such as stuffings and roast meats. Since it is attractive and drought tolerant, rosemary is used as an ornamental plant in gardens and for xeriscape landscaping, especially in regions of Mediterranean climate. It is considered easy to grow and pest-resistant. Rosemary can grow quite large and retain attractiveness for many years, can be pruned into formal shapes and low hedges, and has been used for topiary. It is easily grown in pots. The groundcover cultivars spread widely, with a dense and durable texture.Rosemary grows on friable loam soil with good drainage in an open, sunny position. It will not withstand waterlogging and some varieties are susceptible to frost. It grows best in neutral to alkaline conditions (pH 7–7.8) with average fertility. It can be propagated from an existing plant by clipping a shoot (from a soft new growth) 10–15 cm (4–6 in) long, stripping a few leaves from the bottom, and planting it directly into soil.The leaves, both fresh and dried, are used in traditional Italian cuisine. They have a bitter, astringent taste and are highly aromatic, which complements a wide variety of foods. Herbal tea can be made from the leaves. When burnt, they give off a mustard-like smell and a smell similar to burning wood, which can be used to flavor foods while barbecuing. Rosemary oil is used for purposes of fragrant bodily perfumes or to emit an aroma into a room. It is also burnt as incense, and used in shampoos and cleaning products.

Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron crocus. Crocus is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Saffron crocus grows to 20–30 cm (8–12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas, which are the distal end of a carpel. Together with the styles, or stalks that connect the stigmas to their host plant, the dried stigmas are used mainly in various cuisines as a seasoning and colouring agent. Saffron, long among the world's most costly spices by weight is native to Greece or Southwest Asia and was first cultivated in Greece. As a genetically monomorphic clone, it was slowly propagated throughout much of Eurasia and was later brought to parts of North Africa, North America, and Oceania. The saffron crocus, unknown in the wild, probably descends from Crocus cartwrightianus, which originated in Crete C. thomasii and C. pallasii are other possible precursors. The saffron crocus is a triploid that is "self-incompatible" and male sterile. It undergoes aberrant meiosis and is hence incapable of independent sexual reproduction—all propagation is by vegetative multiplication via manual "divide-and-set" of a starter clone or by interspecific hybridisation.If C. sativus is a mutant form of C. cartwrightianus, then it may have emerged via plant breeding,which would have selected for elongated stigmas, in late Bronze Age Crete. Saffron's taste and iodoform- or hay-like fragrance result from the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal.It also contains a carotenoid dye, crocin, which imparts a rich golden-yellow hue to dishes and textiles. Its recorded history is attested in a 7th-century BC Assyrian botanical treatise compiled under Ashurbanipal, and it has been traded and used for over four millennia. Iran now accounts for approximately 90% of the world production of saffron. A degree of uncertainty surrounds the origin of the English word, "saffron" although it can be traced to have stemmed immediately from 12th-century Old French term safran, which comes from the Latin word safranum. Safranum comes from the Persian intercessor. Old Persian is the first language in which the use of saffron in cooking is recorded, with references dating back thousands of years. In fact some sources argue that it originated from Middle East/Persia and became associated with Greek, Spanish, and Indian cuisines.Saffron's aroma is often described by connoisseurs as reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes, while its taste has also been noted as hay-like and sweet. Saffron also contributes a luminous yellow-orange colouring to foods. Saffron is widely used in Indian, Persian, European, Arab, and Turkish cuisines. Confectioneries and liquors also often include saffron. Common saffron substitutes include safflower (Carthamus tinctorius, which is often sold as "Portuguese saffron" or "ACAFRAO"), annatto, and turmeric (Curcuma longa). Saffron has also been used as a fabric dye, particularly in China and India, and in perfumery. It is used for religious purposes in India, and is widely used in cooking in many cuisines, ranging from the Milanese risotto of Italy to the bouillabaisse of France to the biryani with various meat accompaniments in South Asia.

Sage oil has a sharp, herbal smell, and is watery in viscosity. It is an evergreen perennial herb that can grow up to about 60cm ( 2 feet) high with a woody base, soft gray-green oval leaves and a mass of blue or violet flowers. The Chinese believed that it cured sterility, while the Romans believed it cured just about everything.The name is derived from the Latin word 'salvare' which means 'heal' or 'save' and during the Middle Ages it was a popular ingredient of many nerve tonics and the herb was also used to clean gums.Sage oil is extracted from the dried leaves by steam distillation. The main chemical components of sage oil are a-pinene, camphene, b-pinene, myrcene, limonene, 1,8-cineole, a-thujone, b-thujone, camphor, linalool, bornyl acetate and borneol.Sage is a powerful oil and should be used with care. It is classified as an oral toxin and should be used with great care in aromatherapy. It should not be used during pregnancy, or by persons suffering from epilepsy or high blood pressure.The therapeutic properties of sage oil are anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypertensive, laxative, stomachic and tonic. Although this oil has a high thujone content, and can therefore cause convulsions when used in high concentrations, it is effective to stimulate the digestion and specially a bad appetite and due to its hormonal regulatory effect, it is most useful for menstrual problems, as well as the pain associated with rheumatism.It helps to deal with grief and depression and quickens the senses and has been used to combat female sterility, as well as menopausal problems and has a tonic effect on the urinary tract as well as the liver and kidneys. Sage oil also stimulates the lymphatic system and thereby boost glandular function while it also has value to treat dermatitis, atonic wounds, sores, ulcers, as well as insect bites and reducing large pores.On the muscular system it can be used to ease stiff muscles and particularly fibrositis and torticollis (stiff neck) and eases trembling and palsy.If the toxic effects of sage oil bothers you, you could consider clary sage oil as it has similar properties as sage oil, but does not have the side effects. Even though sage oil can be toxic in too large dosages, it still offers some very good therapeutic properties which should be balanced against the side effects of this oil.Although essential oils blend well with one another, sage oil blends particularly well with bergamot, lavender,lemon and rosemary.

Sandalwood Oil - Sandalwood Synthetic Sandalwood is the name of a class of fragrant woods from trees in the genus Santalum. The woods are heavy, yellow, and fine-grained, and unlike many other aromatic woods, they retain their fragrance for decades. Sandalwood oil is extracted from the woods for use or can be made sandalwood synthetic. Both the wood and the oil produce a distinctive fragrance that has been highly valued for centuries. Consequently, the slow-growing trees have been overharvested in many areas.Sandalwoods are medium-sized hemiparasitic trees, and part of the same botanical family as European mistletoe. Notable members of this group are Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) and Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum); others in the genus also have fragrant wood. These are found in Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Australia, Indonesia, Hawaii, and other Pacific Islands. Indian Sandalwood - Santalum Album Santalum album, or Indian sandalwood, is a threatened species. It is indigenous to South India, and grows in the Western Ghats and a few other mountain ranges such as the Kalrayan and Shevaroy Hills. Although sandalwood trees in India, Pakistan and Nepal are government-owned and their harvest is controlled, many trees are illegally cut down. Sandalwood oil prices have risen to $2,000 per kg recently. Price may vary for natural and sandalwood synthetic. Sandalwood from the Mysore region of Karnataka (formerly Mysore), and Marayoor forest in Kerala, southern India, is high in quality. New plantations were created with international aid in Tamil Nadu for economic exploitation. In Kununurra in Western Australia. Indian sandalwood (S. album) is grown on a large scale. Santalum ellipticum, S. freycinetianum, and S. paniculatum, the Hawaiian sandalwood, were also used and considered high quality. These three species were exploited between 1790 and 1825 before the supply of trees ran out (a fourth species, S. haleakalae, occurs only in subalpine areas and was never exported). Although S. freycinetianum and S. paniculatum are relatively common today, they have not regained their former abundance or size, and S. ellipticum remains rare.[1][2]Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood) is used by aromatherapists and perfumers. The concentration differs considerably from other Santalum species. In the 1840s, sandalwood was Western Australia’s biggest export earner. Oil was distilled for the first time in 1875, and by the turn of the century, production of Australian sandalwood oil was intermittent.Sandalwood oil has a distinctive soft, warm, smooth, creamy and milky precious-wood scent. Natural Sandalwood Oil or Synthetic Sandalwood Oil It imparts a long-lasting, woody base to perfumes from the oriental, woody, fougère, and chypre families, as well as a fixative to floral and citrus fragrances. When used in smaller proportions in a perfume, it acts as a fixative, enhancing the longevity of other, more volatile, materials in the composite. Last but not least, sandalwood is a key ingredient in the "floriental" (floral-ambery) fragrance family – when combined with white florals such as jasmine, ylang ylang, gardenia, plumeria, orange blossom, tuberose, etc. Natural Sandalwood oil in India or synthetic sandalwood oil is widely used in the cosmetic industry. The main source of true sandalwood, S. album, is a protected species, and demand for it cannot be met. Many species of plants are traded as "sandalwood". The genus Santalum has more than 19 species.

Styrax, occasionally called Storax, is a natural balsam (see Part One of this work: Balsam), formed as a pathological product in the sapwood and bark tissues of Liquidambar Orientalis, a medium-sized tree native to Asia Minor and the surrounding islands. The name Liquidambar is derived from the French “liquid ambre”. The tree is wildgrowing, and does not have to be felled in order to yield styrax. The bark is removed spotwise, and the sapwood is deliberately injured. Styrax is formed and collected in cans below the wounds or scraped off the wound. The peeled bark can be boiled in water to yield an additional amount of styrax. Extraction with alcohol (ethyl alcohol or rarely, methyl alcohol). Several extractions are necessary if the water content is high. The alcoholic extracts are subsequently dried with anhydrous sodium sulfate or the like prior to evaporation of the extract in mild vacuum. This leads to a so-called “resin-absolute” of styrax. Absolute of Styrax. This product is alcohol-soluble, comparatively pale in color, and truly representative of the natural raw material in odor. It blends excellently with coumarin and its derivatives, with cyclamal, linalool, terpineol, anisaldehyde, ylang-ylang, jasmin bases, ionones and methylionones, etc., etc. The spicy note is derived from cinnamic alcohol and its esters, and from traces of cinnamal formed by oxidation of the cinnamic alcohol.

Leptospermum scoparium, commonly called manuka, New Zealand teatree,broom teatree or just tea tree, is a species of flowering plant in the myrtle family Myrtaceae, native to New Zealand and southeast Australia.It is a prolific scrub-type tree and is often one of the first species to regenerate on cleared land. It is typically a shrub growing to 2–5 m (7–16 ft) tall, but can grow into a moderately sized tree, up to 15 m (49 ft) or so in height. It is evergreen, with dense branching and small leaves 7–20 mm long and 2–6 mm broad, with a short spine tip. The flowers are white, occasionally pink, 8–15 mm (rarely up to 25 mm) in diameter, with five petals. This species is often confused with the closely related species kanuka – the easiest way to tell the difference between the two species in the field is to feel their foliage – manuka leaves are prickly, while kanuka leaves are soft. The wood is tough and hard.Evidence suggests that L. scoparium originated in Australia before the onset of the Miocene aridity, and dispersed relatively recently from eastern Australia to New Zealand. It is likely that on arrival in New Zealand, L. scoparium became established in limited edaphically suitable areas until the arrival of Polynesian man, whose fire and forest-clearing brought about the low-nutrient-status soils for which it was preadapted in its homeland. It is now found throughout New Zealand, but is particularly common on the drier east coasts of the North and South Islands, and in Australia in Tasmania, Victoria and New South Wales. Many more cultivars are available in New Zealand but often the plant performs better in cultivation overseas. This is because in its homeland it is subject to attack by scale insects that secrete a honeydew on which grows a sooty mold that eventually debilitates the plant. Because of this, attempts have been made, with limited commercial success, to cross the showy New Zealand cultivars with mold-resistant Australian Leptospermum species.Scientific studies have shown that tea tree oil made from M. alternifolia may have some promise for mild cases of acne and athlete's foot, however there are many health claims made for it that are not backed by medical evidence. The oils of Melaleuca can be found in organic solutions of medication that claim to eliminate warts, including the Human papillomavirus. No scientific evidence proves these claims.Melaleuca oils are the active ingredient in Burn-Aid, a popular minor burn first aid treatment (an offshoot of the brandname Band-Aid). M. leucadendra oil, cajeput tree, is also used in many pet fish remedies such as Melafix and Bettafix to treat bacterial and fungal infections. Bettafix is a lighter dilution of cajeput tree oil, while Melafix is a stronger dilution. It is most commonly used to promote fin and tissue regrowth. The remedies are often associated with Betta fish (Siamese Fighting Fish) but are also used with other fish.The wood was often used for tool handles. Manuka sawdust imparts a delicious flavour when used for smoking meats and fish. It is cultivated in New Zealand for manuka honey, produced when honeybees gather the nectar from its flowers, and for the pharmaceutical industry. It is also used for carving.

Tree Moss, the plants of the genus Climacium (order Bryales), which resemble small evergreen trees and are found in damp, shady places throughout the Northern Hemisphere. The most common species are the European tree moss (C. dendroides), which is also found in North America, and the American tree moss (C. americanum). Both are about 5 to 10 centimetres (2 to 4 inches) high, with the branches clustered at the top of the shoot. The reddish-brown capsules (spore cases), borne on the female plant, have lids with long beaks and mature in the fall. The American tree moss has longer, narrower capsules with longer beaks and a leaf different from that of the European tree moss. Both species produce new shoots vegetatively each year from horizontal stems growing on the soil surface. A less common North American species, C. kindbergii, can be found growing in very wet, swampy places. It is very dark green, almost black, in colour, and its tendency to form dense tufts or cushions obscures the treelike appearance of the small individual plants..Usnea is the generic and scientific name for several species of lichen in the family Parmeliaceae, that generally grow hanging from tree branches, resembling grey or greenish hair. It is sometimes referred to commonly as Old Man's Beard, Beard Lichen, Tree's Dandruff, Woman's Long Hair, or Tree Moss. It should not be confused with Oak Moss (genus Evernia), which it physically resembles and is also called Tree Moss.Usnea grows all over the world. Like other lichens it is a symbiosis of a fungus and an alga. The fungus belongs to the division Ascomycota, while the alga is a member of the division Chlorophyta.As a fruticose lichen, Usnea appears as a shrub-like growth on host trees. It reproduces via vegetative means through fragmentation, asexual means through soredia, or sexual means through ascogonium and spermatogonium.The growth rate of lichens in nature is slow, but the growth rate has been sped up in laboratory conditions where Usnea is being cultured. Usnea looks very similar to Spanish moss, so much so that the latter plant's Latin name is derived from it. Many of these are now regarded as morphological varieties and adaptations to local circumstances. The taxonomic categorization of many members of this genus remains uncertain. The number of recognized species in Finland is decreasing for this reason, from 34 in 1951 to 25 in 1963 and only 12 in 2000. It is now noted as including more than 600 species and being one of the largest genera within the Parmeliaceae.The species Usnea longissima was renamed Dolichousnea longissima in 2004.Like other lichens, Usnea often grows on sick or dying trees due to the pre-existing loss of canopy leaves, allowing for greater photosynthesis by the lichen's algae. Under bad conditions they may grow no larger than a few millimetres, if they survive at all. Where the air is unpolluted, they can grow to 10–20 cm long. Usnea has been used as an antibiotic for gram-positive bacteria, and as an antifungal against Candida albicans. There are no human clinical trials to either support or refute either practice, although in vitro research does strongly support Usnea's antimicrobial properties.Usnea species have been used to create orange, yellow, green, blue and purple dyes for textiles.Usnea barbata has been used in cosmetic production for its antimicrobial and antifungal properties as a preservative and deodorant.

Polianthes tuberosa doesn't have any botanical or olfactory relation to roses, despite the name. This small white blossom flowering plant is its own thing, a "white floral" (in the same class as jasmine and orange blossom) with an intensity and creaminess beyond any other: Though the scent can be likened to that of orange blossom and gardenia, tuberose has interesting facets of camphor in the opening (comparable to - but not quite that green - as budding gardenias), of dewy mushroom and earth when in bloom and then of rot and bloody meat when browning. Buttery, rubbery and even metallic facets also emerge if one searches for them. The natural blossoms are so powerful they can fill a room and continue to exude their scent for days after picking. The tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is a perennial plant related to the agaves, extracts of which are used as a middle note in perfumery. The common name derives from the Latin tuberosa, meaning swollen or tuberous in reference to its root system. Polianthes means "many flowers" in Greek. In Mexican Spanish the flower is called nardo or vara de San José, which means ‘St. Joseph’s staff’. The tuberose is a night-blooming plant thought to be native to Mexico along with every other species of Polianthes. It grows in elongated spikes up to 45 cm (18 in) long that produce clusters of fragrant waxy white flowers that bloom from the bottom towards the top of the spike. It has long, bright green leaves clustered at the base of the plant and smaller, clasping leaves along the stem.Members of the closely related genus Manfreda are often called "tuberoses". In the Philippines, the plant is also known as azucena, and while once associated with funerals it is now used in floral arrangements for other occasions.Tuberose foliage has grassy foliage, similar in appearance to daylilies. Each stem can bear a dozen or more white blooms, which may remain closed if the heat is particularly stifling. True to its agave heritage, the flowers are slightly waxy, offering protection against desiccation, but the blooms can still shrivel in direct sun when temperatures are 95 degrees F or greater. If this sounds typical of your summers, plant the bulbs where they will receive some afternoon shade.In northern climates, tuberoses may not bloom until the latter part of August, but you can start the bulbs indoors in early spring to give them a head start. However, the bulbs are easy to start outdoors, if you’re patient enough to wait three to four months for the first blooms:Plant them in soil with good drainage in a sunny location.Space the bulbs six inches apart, and cover them with two inches of soil.Make sure the bulbs get a weekly drink, either through rain or irrigation. No note in perfumery is more surprisingly carnal, creamier or contradicting than that of tuberose. The multi-petalled flower is a mix of flower shop freshness and velvety opulence. Which is why it is the perennial polarizing flower note having as many ardent fans as passionate detractors. The Victorians must have been among the latter: they forbade young girls of inhaling the scent of tuberose in the fear they might have a spontaneous orgasm! Roja Dove is right when he says that tuberose is really loose, the "harlot of perfumery". Tuherose Absolute is used—when available and when the cost allows for such extravagance-in high-class floral perfumes of the heaviest and sweetest types: frangipanni, stephanotis, caprifolium,lilac, heliotrope, gardenia, violet, and in heavy Oriental types, opopanax, in fantasy perfumes,etc. With an annual world production measured in kilos and never in tons, and being one of the most expensive of all perfume materials,One of the most Famous and Technically Brilliant owes its success to Tuberose namely "Poison" by C Dior. And ever since then the usage of this material has been increasing steadily.

Vetveria Zizanoides, this family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil. Other common names Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena. The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks). Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.For desert coolers in summer in North India.Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.Vetiver Oil is used extensively in perfumery not only as a fixative, but also as an odor contributor in bases such as fougere, chypre, modern woody -aldehydic or ambre-aldehydic bases, Oriental bases, moss and wood notes, opopanax bases, rose bases, etc. It blends well with linalool,cinnamicalcohol,patchouli,sandalwood,oakmoss products,amylsalicylate, lavender, clary sage, mimosa, cassie, opopanax, isoeugenol, etc.The oil also serves for the isolation of Vetiverol and Vetiverone, the former again being used to produce Vetiveryl Acetate.

Cananga odorata, commonly called ylang-ylang ee-lang-ee-lang),[1] cananga tree, ilang-ilang, kenanga in Indonesian, fragrant cananga, Macassar-oil plant or perfume tree,[2] is a tropical tree which originates from the Philippines and is valued for its perfume. The essential oil derived from the flowers is used in aromatherapy.Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang-ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexapetalus, climbing ylang-ylang,[5] are woody, evergreen climbing plants in the same family. A. odoratissimus is also a source of perfume.C. odorata is a fast-growing tree of the custard-apple family Annonaceae. Its growth exceeds 5 m (15 ft) per year[citation needed] and attains an average height of 12 m (40 ft) in an ideal climate. It grows in full or partial sun, and prefers the acidic soils of its native rainforest habitat. The evergreen leaves are smooth and glossy, oval, pointed and with wavy margins, and 13–20 cm (5–8 in) long. The flower is drooping, long-stalked, with six narrow, greenish-yellow (rarely pink) petals, rather like a sea star in appearance, and yields a highly fragrant essential oil. The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich and deep with notes of rubber and custard, and bright with hints of jasmine and neroli. The essential oil of the flower is obtained through steam distillation of the flowers and separated into different grades (extra, 1, 2, or 3) according to when the distillates are obtained. The main aromatic components of ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, responsible for its characteristic odor.The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. It is believed to relieve high blood pressure, normalize sebum secretion for skin problems, and is considered to be an aphrodisiac. According to Margaret Mead, it was used as such by South Pacific natives such as the Samoan Islanders where she did much of her research. The oil from ylang-ylang is widely used in perfumery for oriental or floral themed perfumes (such as Chanel No. 5). Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit and wood scents.In Indonesia, ylang-ylang flowers are spread on the bed of newlywed couples.In the Philippines, its flowers, together with the flowers of the sampaguita, are strung into a necklace (lei) and worn by women and used to adorn religious images. Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes up 29% of the Comoros' annual export (1998).Ylang-ylang is a common flavoring in Madagascar for ice cream.Ylang-Ylang Oil is usually a yellowish,somewhat oily liquid, with a powerful and intensely sweet, but also soft-balsamic floral odor and an unusual tenacity in its floral-woody undertones.The oil is useful in general perfumery as a floral additive of extremely versatile application. It blends with almost any other floral natural or synthetic material, and gives good effects in a concentration of 0.5~. up to about 5% of the perfume base.There is hardly any floral type, where ylang-ylang “extra” would not fit in. The oil blends excellent 1y with bois de rose,vetiver, amyl salicylate, opopanax, bergamot,hydroxycitronellal, mimosa, cassie, methylionones,cinnamic alcohol and esters, benzoates, paracresyl esters (ethers), nerolidol, Peru balsam oil,vertenex HC, etc. and with gardenia bases,stephanot is baws, tuberose bases, etc.

Earlier known as West Indian Sandalwood Oil, Amyris oil is obtained from the wood of the tree Amyris Balsamifera. The oil is removed through partial pressure steam distillation with no additives, solvents or chemicals used at any part of the process. Amyris Balsamifera grows in the northern parts of South America and in Central America and West Indies. The distillation of this oil mainly takes place in Haiti. Locally, amyris oil is also known as "Candle Wood" or "Bois Chandele" and famously known as West Indian Rosewood. Amyris Oil is a viscous liquid. Pale yellow to brownish yellow in colour. The oil has a slightly balsamic note and a peppery top note. Mainly the odor is faintly woody but not dry. The odor and the colour of the oil varies according to the age of the oil and the age of the wood for the distillation of the oil. In Perfumery, this oil finds extensive applications as a mild blender in numerous perfumes. It blends well with Ionones, methyl ionones, lavandin, oakmoss products, terpineol, citronella oils, amyl salicylate etc. Amyris works well in soap perfumes. Other than perfumery Amyris wood is considered excellent for furniture. Recently the region Haiti was hit by hurricane Mathew in which the region lost its crops and infrastructure. Therefore the distillation of the oil had a serious setback and the prices of the oil increased sharply. BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. provides the substitutes for these oils with our reconstitutions.

Benzoin is an aromatic tree resin that has been highly valued in the fragrance industry for centuries. It is extracted from the bark of trees in the Styrax genus that are found in various regions across Southeast Asia, with some of the most sought-after varieties originating from the Laos, Siam, and Sumatra regions. Benzoin from Laos, also known as Laos or Lao benzoin, is characterized by its rich, sweet, and slightly vanilla-like aroma. It is often used as a base note in perfumes, providing a warm and comforting scent that lingers on the skin. In traditional medicine, Laos benzoin has been used to treat a range of ailments, from respiratory problems to skin conditions. Siam benzoin, also known as Siamese or Thailand benzoin, has a more complex fragrance profile than its Laos counterpart. It is characterized by its balsamic, woody, and slightly spicy aroma, making it a popular choice in perfume compositions that require a more nuanced and sophisticated scent. Siam benzoin is also used in traditional medicine, where it is believed to have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Sumatra benzoin, also known as Sumatran or Padang benzoin, is prized for its smoky, resinous, and almost leathery scent. It is often used in masculine fragrances, as its earthy and slightly pungent aroma provides a more assertive and bold scent profile. Sumatra benzoin is also used in aromatherapy to promote relaxation and reduce stress. Benzoin is also called gum benzoin or gum benjamin. But "gum" is incorrect as benzoin is not a polysaccharide. Its name came via the Italian from the Arabic luban jawi. Benzoin resin is also called styrax balsam or styrax resin, but wrongly since those resins are obtained from a different plant family, Hamamelidaceae. Benzoin was first reported in 1832 by Justus von Liebig and Friedrich Woehler during their research on oil of bitter almond which is benzaldehyde with traces of hydrocyanic acid. Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in incense-making and perfumery because of its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties. Gum benzoin is a major component of the type of church incense used in Russia and some other Orthodox Christian societies as well as Western Catholic Churches. Most benzoin is used in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and India, where it is burned on charcoal as incense. It is also used in the production of Bakhoor (Arabic scented wood chips) as well as various mixed resin incense in the Arab countries and the Horn of Africa. Benzoin tree is from Java, Sumatra and Thailand and grows to 8 meters (20 feet). Deep incisions are made in the trunk of the tree from which the grayish colored sap exudes. When the resinous lump becomes hard and brittle, it is collected from the bark of Benzoin. It is also used as a fixative in the perfume industry. Perfumery use of Benzoin can hardly be described other than as this material virtually blends with almost every known material. In traces it also helps Rose accords and can be used in high percentages in Musks and Orientals There are following unique Benzoin products manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd.

A civet is a small, lithe-bodied, mostly nocturnal mammal native to tropical Asia and Africa, especially the tropical forests. The term civet applies to over a dozen different mammal species. Most of the species diversity is found in southeast Asia. The best-known civet species is the African Civet, Civettictis civetta. Which historically has been the main species from which was obtained a musky scent used in perfumery. The word civet may also refer to the distinctive musky scent produced by the animals.The common name is used for a variety of carnivorous mammalian species, mostly of the family Viverridae. The African Palm Civet (Nandinia binotata) is genetically distinct and belongs in its own monotypic family, Nandiniidae. Civets are also called "toddycats" in English and "musang" in Malay. The latter may lead to some confusion as the indigenous word "musang" has been appropriated to foxes, which exist in popular culture but are not native and generally never encountered in that geographical region. The civet produces a musk (also called civet) highly valued as a fragrance and stabilizing agent for perfume. Both male and female civets produce the strong-smelling secretion, which is produced by the civet's perineal glands. It is harvested by either killing the animal and removing the glands or by scraping the secretions from the glands of a live animal. The latter is the preferred method today.Animal rights groups, such as the World Society for the Protection of Animals, express concern that harvesting musk is cruel to animals. Between these ethical concerns and the availability of synthetic substitutes, the practice of raising civets for musk is dying out. African civet lives in savannahs and forests of South and central Africa, while Indian civet lives in Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. These animals produce odorous secretion with purpose of marking their territory. Diluted after some time the odor of civet secretion which normally is strong and repulsive becomes pleasant with animalistic-musk nuance. For the purpose of collecting this secretion, animals are kept in cages. Luckily, this scent is nowadays mainly synthetic. Naturally the byproduct of the anal glands of exotic civet cats (technically no cats). Which smells very pungent and fecal but which gives an amazing radiance and warmth to florals. The Asian palm civet also called toddy cat is a small member of the Viverridae family native to South and Southeast Asia. In 2008, the IUCN classified the species as Least Concern as it is tolerant of a broad range of habitats. Now synthetically replicated with civetone for ethical reasons. Following CIVET products are manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd , Civet NNA or Zibetha at 0.1% levels will enhance sensuality and provide velvety smoothness. Suggested to use at 10% dilution and is very easy to overdose. The beauty and strength of these two products are fully evident once incorporated in a blend. Civet Crystals is a hard strong fecal musky note for burning and soap application.

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the more expensive animal products in the world. The name originates from the Sanskrit word for "testicle", mu?ká, and has come to encompass a wide variety of aromatic substances with similar odors despite their often differing chemical structures. Until the late 19th century, natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively. The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk is muscone. In Ayurveda, musk has been considered as a life-saving drug and used in various cardiac, mental and neurological disorders. It has also been included in various compound formulations, such as Kasturi Bhairav Ras, Kasturi Modak, Mrignabhyadi Vati and Mrigamadsar, which have wide therapeutic applications. Some plants such as Angelica archangelica or Abelmoschus moschatus produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These compounds are widely used in perfumery as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks. Since obtaining the deer musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic, sometimes called "white musk". They can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. The first two groups have broad uses in industry ranging from cosmetics to detergents. However, the detection of the first two chemical groups in human and environmental samples as well as their carcinogenic properties initiated a public debate on the use of these compounds and a ban or reduction of their use in many regions of the world. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace them since these compounds appear to be safer.

The artemisia plants seem to have originated in Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Most of these species are found growing wild and abundantly all over the temperate and cold-temperate zones of the world. A very common weed in Central Europe, Southeastern Europe, India, China and Japan is the Artemisia Vulgaris. An essential oil is steam distilled from the dried herb in the South of France, in Morocco, Germany, Hungary, India, China and Japan. The French oil is known as “essence d’Armoise”Artemisia, probably better known as armoise, mugwort and also by many here in the UK as common wormwood. The essential oil is pale yellow in colour, of a pourable viscosity, and obtained by steam distilling the leaves which are completely dried out first. The aroma has real power, strength and long-lasting depth; sweet, herbal, bitter and davana boozy throughout. Armoise NNO+ is a brilliant modifier and is created by a special approach and technology for creating reconstituted oils.

This essential oil is steam distilled from the dried leaves of Barosma Betulina, a herb which grows wild and abundantly in South Africa. Tinctures, oleoresins and other extracts are produced for pharmaceutical purposes. Only a small fraction of the total amount of harvested buchu leaves are used for distillation of essential oil. Distillation takes place almost exclusively in Holland, England and the United States of America, rarely in the growing areas.Buchu Leaf Oil is a yellow to brownish-yellow liquid, oily or somewhat viscous, depending upon the age of the oil and the dryness of the plant material prior to distillation. The odor is very peculiar: strong, bitter-sweet, minty-camphoraceous, rootlike, penetrating and somewhat medicinal, reminiscent of cough preparations. One of the main constituents of the oil is Diosphenol, a terpenoid phenol. It is responsible for the antiseptic effect of Buchu Leaf Oil. A significant percentage of menthone in the oil is probably the cause of the minty odor and somewhat cool flavor of the oil. Buchu leaf oil is occasionally used in chypre bases, certain types of colognes, etc. for its power, diffusion, and freshness. Due to the shortage of the natural Buchu leaf oil, BMV has created Buchu NNO+. It is reconstitution created with our landmark technology of NNO+

Erroneously called guaiacwood concrete, this oil is steam distilled, occasionally steam-and-water distilled from the wood of Bulnesia Sarmienti, a wild-growing tree from the jungles of Paraguay and Argentina.Guaiacwood Oil is a soft or semi-solid mass, yellowish to greenish yellow or pale amber in color. When melted, it may stay supercooled and liquid for a long time. Once again, we meet a product which quite frequently presents odor types not reported in literature: opart from its delicately sweet, rosy-woody odor which is often referred to as “tearose-like”, the oi I may have a “smoked ham” odor which is definitely unwanted, but not uncommon. It is conceivable that this odor, which was never reported prior to World War II, occurs in oils which have been “forced” during the distillation through the addition of mineral acid (sulfuric, etc.) to the chopped, wet wood in the still. This increases the yield of oil, but it also creates a hazard of spot-burning of the woodchips. Similar to amyris, the age of the wood prior to distillation also has some influence upon the odor of the oil. The main constituent of guaiac wood oil is called Guaiol (“gaiol”) This sesquiterpene alcohol can be acetylated to the so-called Guaiyl Acetate. Guaiacwood NNO blends well with Iinalool, nerol, geraniol, terpineol, oak moss, ionones, orris products, spice oils, etc.

The best oil is steam distilled (or steam-and water distilled) from the crushed, dried or partially dried, ripe berries (fruits). Occasionally water distillation is used. The greater part of all commercial juniperberry oil, however, is derived from the fermented fruits as a by-product of the central European juniper-brandy manufacturing. It should be noted that juniper berries (fruits) contain certain amounts of fixed oil, occasionally called “juniper oil” (see Jurriperberry “Resinoid”). The shrub, Juniperus Communis, grows wild all over central and southern Europe, southwest Asia, northern Asia, North Africa and North America. The best berries are collected in northern Italy, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Yugoslavia, and France. Lower grades are collected in Germany, Poland, U, S. S. R., Portugal, Spain, Bulgaria, India, and Scandinavia.The gin-distillers are also large consumers of juniper fruits. Some of them still make their own distillates from juniperberry tinctures rather than using a sesquiterpeneless juniperberry oil which never gives the same “body” of flavor to the beverage. The actual production of steam-distilled juniperberry oil is surprisingly small. Juniper Berry is used in perfumery for itsfresh-balsamic notes, as a modifier for various pine needle oils (with which it blends very well), with citrus oils in room spray perfumes, in ambres, fougeres, chypres, after-shave fragrances, spice compositions, colognes, etc.

Lemongrass Oil is produced from two distinctly different botanical species of Cymbopngon. One is a native of East India (Travancore, etc.) where it grows wild, and is now cultivated over a comparatively limited area in the western parts of India. Lemongrass Oil is steam distilled from the fresh or partly dried leaves of the above grass occasionalIy, it is water-and-steam distilled. Outside of India, the “west-Indian” grass is distilled in Africa (Kenya, Tanganyika, Belgian Congo, Angola, Equatorial Africa, Madagascar, Comoro islands, etc.), in Central America (Guatemala and Honduras), in the West Indies (Dominican Republic, Haiti, Jamaica, Puerto Rico), in South America (Argentina, Brazil, Suriname), and in Formosa, Indochina, Indonesia, Malaya, etc. It is one of the 10 largest essential oils in the world in respect to volume produced annually (about 1500 tons in 1958), although a good portion of this goes into the production of citral either for perfumery or flavor use, for the production of ionones, or for pharmaceutical use in the synthesis of vitamin A, etc. Lemongrass oil, as such, is not used very extensively in perfumes and not at all in flavors.Lemongrass Oil is a yellow or amber-colored, somewhat viscous liquid with a very strong, fresh grassy lemon-type, herbaceous or tea-like odor.Lemongrass Oil contains about 70° citral which is the starting material for the production of ionones.

Commercially, we may define two types of Lime Oil:1) Expressed lime oil, which can be prepared in the same way that lemon oil, orange oil, etc. are prepared from their fruits (by hand or by machine).2) Distilled lime oil, which was the by-product (now often the main product) of the juice industry, similar to distilled sweet orange oil, but not obtained in quite the same way. The origin of the lime tree is not definitely known, but it is believed that the tree came from the Far East, probably from the East Indian archipelago where it is found on almost all the islands to South America’s Pacific coast and the jungles inland. The tree was also brought in the opposite direction to East Africa, Arabia, Iran (hence the name “Persian lime”), Egypt and southern Europe. It is most likely, that the West Indian and Florida limes are descendants of lime seeds brought to the West Indies shortly after the discovery of America. The lime trees now grow abundantly in all these tropical and semi tropical regions, wild, semi-wild and in a cultivated stage. Lime Oils are produced from unripe (green) fruits together with variable amounts of semi ripe or fully ripe (yellow) limes (distilled lime oil), or exclusively from green limes (expressed lime oil).

The essential oil of the rootlets of Cyperius scariosus (or cyperus scariosus) is marketed under the brand name of Cypriol in India. The oil has been known for many decades in its home country where the roots are used in the same way as vetiver roots for the scenting of sari’s and other women’s clothing. The grass is locally known as Nagar Mustaka.Nagarmotha oil is produced by steam distillation of roots and rhizomes after proper washing, drying and comminuting, similar to the treatment of vetiver rootlets.Oil of Cyperus Scariosus (“Nagarmotha”) is an amber colored or light brown viscous liquid of woody-earthy and very tenacious odor. The very first impression of the odor of this oil bears great resemblance to the odor-impression of the “Oriental” cinnamon-olibanum complex: diffusive, dry, woody, slightly spicy .The overall bodynote resembles that of Virginia cedarwood and vetiver oils, but toward the dryout there is a strong similarity to vetiver in sweet-woody and rich undertones. Apart from the excitingly fresh topnote this oil is distinguished by a firm uniformity in odor throughout all stages of evaporation.Nagarmotha blends well with bergamot, Iabdanum, patchouli, sage clary, etc. for dry ambre notes which can be further enhanced by the addition of very small amounts of c<fixateur 404” or the complex “grisambrol”, etc. Cypriol is useful in perfumes or bases of the woody, Oriental or dry-ambre types, in heavy fougeres, in hyacinth (along with galbanum resinoid), in forest notes and in general as a fixative. In higher concentrations it will display its peculiar, soft-woody note and intriguing topnotes. The relatively low cost of this oil makes it attractive even in soap perfumery where its odor-tenacity and stability come to their right.

Orange Flower Absolute is produced in the south of France, Italy, Tunisia, Morocco, Haiti, Guinea, Comoro Islands, Algeria, Lebanon and, in small quantities, in China, Spain, Egypt, Cyprus, etc. France Italy and Tunisia hold first places in quantity. France and Tunisia lead in quality. From petroleum ether extracted concrete of bitter orange flowers, an absolute is produced by alcohol extraction. This process is carried out mainly in France, but many large-scale consumers of orange flower absolute will prefer to produce their own absolute from imported concrete. The latter must be produced very near the plantation of bitter orange trees. Orange Flower Absolute is a dark brown or dark orange colored, somewhat viscous liquid with a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long-lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter-orange blossoms. Although this absolute certainly has notes in common with jasmin absolute, it has a much more versatile application as a floral “fond” when used at a comparatively low concentration. It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic, sweet-herbaceous undertone, not unlike the one found in jasmin. Orange flower absolute is only slightly cheaper than jasmin absolute, and it may not always impart the same floral strength as jasmin at a similar concentration. But its great advantage is in its freshness which is quite surprising considering that it is an extract with great tenacity.

The flowers from a small tree of the family Oleaceae (to which also the jasmin and lilac belong) are used in China and Japan as a starting material in the production of a concrete and an absolute of Osmanthus. The flowers of Osmanthus Fragrans are extracted with petroleum ether to yield a concrete, which in turn gives an absolute after alcohol extraction. Since the yield of absolute from concrete is only about one kilo per 3,000 kilos of flowers, the enfleurage method or the infusion process have also been applied to these flowers. The perfumed extraction oil can be used as is (directly) in cosmetic preparations with some advantage. The production of osmanthus concrete, absolute, pommade and infusion is apparently very local and these products are not regularly available perfume materials outside the producing areas. The author has no personal experience with the use of these flower absolutes, etc. in perfumery. The flowers of osmanthus fragrans are occasionally used for the perfuming (scenting) of tea in China.

The once popular and well known essential oil of Wintergreen, also called Gaultheria Oil, is about to become obsolete on the perfumer’s and flavorist’s shelf. More correctly, it has been replaced by synthetic Methyl Salicylate. Wintergreen oil is a typical American essential oil, derived by water distillation of the leaves of Gaultheria Procumbent, a small plant of the heather family. Prior to distillation, the leaves are exposed to enzymatic action in warm water.During this process, the methyl salicylate is formed as a decomposition product from a glycoside in the plant material. Traces of other volatile constituents are either present in the leaves, or they are formed during the water distillation as decomposition products (diacetyl is a possible trace component in the oil, as is formaldehyde, etc. These materials are presumably derived from carbohydrates in the re-used distillationwater). The leaves are practically odorless, and methyl salicylate makes up more than 95% of the water distillable oil. The plant is a native of eastern North America, and grows wiId abundantly in the eastern states from the southern part of Canada to Georgia in the southeast of the U.S.A. Wintergreen Oil is a pale yellow to yellowish or pinkish colored liquid of intensely sweet-aromatic odor and flavor, often displaying a peculiar creamy-fruity topnote and a sweet-woody dryout which may have a tarlike note in poorly distilled oils.

The once popular and well known essential oil of Wintergreen, also called Gaultheria Oil, is about to become obsolete on the perfumer’s and flavorist’s shelf. More correctly, it has been replaced by synthetic Methyl Salicylate. Wintergreen oil is a typical American essential oil, derived by water distillation of the leaves of Gaultheria Procumbent, a small plant of the heather family. Prior to distillation, the leaves are exposed to enzymatic action in warm water. During this process, the methyl salicylate is formed as a decomposition product from a glycoside in the plant material. Traces of other volatile constituents are either present in the leaves, or they are formed during the water distillation as decomposition products (diacetyl is a possible trace component in the oil, as is formaldehyde, etc. These materials are presumably derived from carbohydrates in the re-used distillation water). The leaves are practically odorless, and methyl salicylate makes up more than 95% of the water distillable oil. The plant is a native of eastern North America, and grows wiId abundantly in the eastern states from the southern part of Canada to Georgia in the southeast of the U.S.A. Wintergreen Oil is a pale yellow to yellowish or pinkish colored liquid of intensely sweet-aromatic odor and flavor, often displaying a peculiar creamy-fruity topnote and a sweet-woody dryout which may have a tarlike note in poorly distilled oils.

Tonka Absolute is a semi-solid or crystalline mass of pale amber orpalebrownish-yellow color. Its odor is very rich, sweet and warm, distinctly coumarinic-herbaceous, with a prune-like or caramellic-sweet undertone. The odor description “tobacco-like” is somewhat confusing since tonka tincture has been used quite extensively in the flavoring of cured tobacco leaves. The absolute consists of from 20 to 45% Coumarin, but the effect of a true tonka absolute goes far beyond that of the coumarin contained in the absolute. In this fact lies the explanation for the continuous use of tonka absolute today, almost a century after the appearance of synthetic coumarin on the perfume and flavor market. Tonka Absolute is used as a fixative and nonfloral sweetener which introduces warm notes in chypres, fougures, new mown hay bases, lavender bouquets, Oriental bases, etc. lt blends very well with lavender, Iavandin, clary sage, flouve, phenylacetates, salicylates, cinnamates, styrax products, heliotropine, bergamot, oakmoss products, geranyl esters, citronellyl esters, menthyl esters, etc.Tonka “Beans” are the seeds from the fruits of a large tree, Dipteryx Odorata (and other species of Dipteryx) which grows in western and northeastern South America, particularly in Venezuela, the Guianas and Brazil. The tree also grows in Nigeria, West Africa, but production of beans for export has been irregular and remains unimportant in Nigeria.The seed is removed from the ripe fruit and is dried and soaked in alcohol or rum for 12 to 24 hours. The seeds then swell and, when they are removed from the alcohol bath, they shrink on drying, and on the surface appears the well known crystalline frosting of coumarin. This treatment is partly a curing, partly a conventional “sales promotion” process.

Spike lavender oil, also called Lavender Spike or just Spike Oil (Spanish spike oil) is known in France as Aspic. The oil is steam distilled from the flowering tops of the stout plant, Lavandula Latifolia which, together with true lavender, are the parents of the hybrid Lavandin. The spike or aspic plant grows wild in or around its homeland, the Mediterranean countries, particularly in Spain, France, Yugoslavia, Italy, and scattered in many places in North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean countries and islands. Italian plantations in Ethiopia have not been very successful in that the oils produced were substantially different in composition. The main producer is Spain, with France following far behind in quantity, but producing an oil of more delicate odor. The Spanish oils are generaly produced by a water-and-steam distillation, while all French oils are steam distilled. It seems likely that Spanish plant material is collected with less respect to uniformity in botanical specimens than the French. Spike Lavender Oil is a pale yellow (most Spanish oils) to almost water-white (most French oils), mobile liquid of transitory camphoraceous (eucalyptus-like), fresh and herbaceous odor, reminiscent of lavandin and rosemary oi[s and with a somewhat dry-woody undertone.

The “essential” oil from the peel of the almost ripe fruit of the bitter orange tree, Citrus Aurantium, subspecies amara, is produced almost exclusively by expression, Thus it is strictly not a true essential oil according to current definitions. It contains some non-volatile matter. Like most other citrus fruits, the bitter orange exists in numerous varieties, and bitter orange oil varies considerably in odor and flavor according to its geographical origin. The main producers of bitter orange oil are: Spain, Guinea, the West Indies (Jamaica, Cuba, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico), Italy (Sicily), Brazil, etc., while the U.S. S. R., Mexico, China, Tanganyika, France, etc. are minor producers. In Italy, the bitter orange tree serves for the grafting of other citrus trees on a wide scale, due to the resistance of this bitter orange tree (trunk) to serious diseases. After expression of the oil by hand or by machine, some producers submit the peels to steam distillation, thus obtaining a further, small yield of a very poor oil, Unfortunately, this oil is often added to the cold-pressed oil. Distillation is never performed in Spain or Guinea, and this fact could be part of the reason for the outstandingly high flavor and odor quality of the bitter orange oils from these areas. Cold pressed bitter orange oil is a mobile liquid of dark yellow to olive-yellow or pale brownish yellow color. The odor is very peculiar, fresh and yet “bitter” in the sense of “dry”, but with a rich and lasting, sweet undertone. There are notes which remind of bergamot, grapefruit and sweet orange, but overall, the odor is distinctly different from that of other citrus oils. It is a different type of freshness, a peculiar floral undertone which occasionally shows indolic notes, and a comparatively good tenacity.Bitter Orange Oil is used extensively in flavors where it forms the main ingredient in the “orange see” or “triple see” liqueur flavors, and also acts as an important modifier and intensifier in common sweet-orange flavors for soft drinks, etc. It lends body and pleasant “twists” to a plain sweet-orange flavor, and its great power makes it economical in use. For perfumes, the bitter orange oil finds use among the other citrus oils in all types of colognes, chypres, fougeres, fresh fragrances, topnotes, aldehydic citrus bases, etc., and it is one of the most common ingredients in artificial bergamot oil. It blends excellently with lavandin and lavender, rosemary and sage clary, oakmoss and labdanum, linalool and Iinalyl propionate, etc.

This oil is steam distilled from the dried, crushed, ripe fruit of Carum Carvi, a small herb which grows wild in Asia, Europe, North Africa and in the northwestern United States. The plant is cultivated in Holland, Denmark, Poland, USSR, Hungary, Yugoslavia, Germany, England, Spain, Tunisia, India, and Pakistan. The four first-named countries are main suppliers of the fruits; Holland is the largest producer of the essential oil. Other countries supply smaller quantities, and the Dutch oil is considered superior, although the scarce English distilled oil (partly from foreign fruits) is also of high flavor quality.Caraway Oil is offered on the market in at least two grades:1) “crude” or “natural” caraway oil—and2) “double rectified” or “redistilled” caraway oil. Crude caraway oil is the direct distillate. It is a pale yellow to brownish, mobile liquid, possessing a strong and peculiar odor typical of the fruit, but with a fatty-harsh undertone. The taste is similar, but quite burning, warm, biting. Rectified caraway oil is colorless or very pale yellow. The odor is stronger, less fatty. The flavor is warmer, less sweet and more biting than that of the crude (natural) oil. Since the main constituents of caraway oil, Carvone and Limonene (both in the dextro-rotatory form) are available as synthetic chemicals, the use of caraway oil has been decreasing considerably during recent years. Apart from the two materials mentioned, however, trace amounts of other ingredients actually decide the characteristic odor of true caraway oil.

Siberian pine needle oil (truly a Fir). This essential oil is steam distilled from the twigs and leaves (needles) of Abies Sibirica, a tree that grows abundantly in the northeastern parts of the U.S. S. R., Mongolia, and has been introduced into various European countries, particularly Finland. Smaller amounts of the oil are produced in Tyrol (Austria), Germany, Poland, Sweden and, occasionally, in Norway. Siberian Fir Needle Oil is undoubtedly the most popular type of “fir” needle oil in Europe, and one of the most pupolar in the U.S.A. also. It is a colorless to very pale yellow or pale olive-yellow, oily liquid, occasionally turbid or opalescent. Its odor is refreshingly balsamic, slightly fatty or oily with a powerful pine-forest odor, and a peculiar fruity-balsamic undertone.The oil is probably produced in quantities of several hundred metric tons annually, but the amount of adulterated and out-and-out artificial oils sold under the same name is overwhelming.Furthermore, the majority of all genuine lots of this oil derive from the U.S. S. R., and these factors make it difficult to give more than an approximation of the actual production figures.Apart from the high amount of bornyl acetate (about 40%), the oil contains a number of terpenes. It is conceivable that camphene, myrcene and phellandrene play a more important role in the particular fragrance of this oil than does the pinene which was once considered its main monoterpenic constituent. Bisabolene, a sesquiterpene, may also contribute to the tenacious, balsamic sweet dryout notes in this oil on a perfume blotter. Trace amounts of certain aliphatic aldehydes (dodecanal, etc.) may be responsible for the freshness of this odor, and possibly one or more compounds related to larixinic acid (commercially known under the brand name of “palatone”, etc. contribute to the balsamic and “jam’’-like, fruity sweetness of the odor of this oil. The latter material has been identified in the bark from this tree and from other conifers. The presence of dodecanal is perhaps more surprising, but it is certainly characteristic of the odor of Siberian Pine Needle Oil. The oil blends well with other pine or “fir” needle oils, amylsalicylate, coumarin, oakmoss products, nitromusks, diphenyl oxide, citrus oils, rosemary oil, juniper berry oil, labdanum extracts, patchouli oil, lavandin oil, etc. The particular odor and aldehydic topnote of this oil makes it an interesting material for use in “unconventional” perfumery.

Oil of Litsea Cubeba is a pale yellow, mobile oil of intensely lemon-like, fresh and sweet odor, with a soft and sweet-fruity, uniform dryout. There are few or no “fatty-grassy” methyl eptenone notes detectable. This is where the oil of litsea cubeba has a definite advantage over lemongrass oil. The citral contents of the two oils are almost equal. However, lemongrass oil has a superior odor-tenacity due to its “heavy” sesqui - terpene-part, with a tone-out of sweet and moderatelypleasant notes. Furthermore, the oil of Litsea Cubeba has also a pleasant taste. and arectified oil could be used in flavor work as a modifier for lemon and lime flavors, and as ageneral freshener in fruit flavors. For use in perfumes, litsea cubeba oil could replace lemongrassoil to a certain degree, but the Chinese oil would probably find better use in artificial verbenatype bases, colognes, household sprays, air fresheners, etc.It blends well with all the citrus oils, petitgrain oils, rosemary oil, Iavandin, camphor sassafrasoils, ocotea pretiosa oil, bois de rose oil, decyl alcohol, geraniol, citronellol, nerol andcountless other natural and synthetic perfume materials. The oil has very little fixative power andneeds clever blending and fixation for successful use in soap perfumes.

While Mandarin Peel Oil is well known and is produced on a fairly large scale, the peel oil of the closely related Tangerine is a comparatively rare oil. The tangerine tree, Citrus Reticulate, grows in Florida, Texas and California (U. S. A.), and is actually the American variety of the East Asian Mandarin. The tangerine has recently been introduced in Guinea, West Africa. Small amounts of oil are produced there by hand (“spoon scraping method”). Algeria produces a machine pressed mandarin oil. The tangerine is much larger than the mandarin, almost globoid, and its peel is usually yellow or pale yellow to reddish. It is cultivated mostly for sale as a whole fruit and for the canning of cleaned sections. Tangerine Oil is machine pressed from the ped of the ripe fruit in the canning factories. The oil is orange colored, mobile and with a fresh, sweet odor, reminiscent of bitter orange and of Valencia orange oil, rather than of mandarin oil. It completely lacks the characteristic dryness and “perfumery” notes of mandarin oil, and it is also much “thinner” in body. Tangerine Oil cannot be used as a replacement for mandarin oil in perfumery or flavor work. It constitutes a particular citrus note, but it is not sufficiently characteristicto become very interesting. It is used to some degree as a modifier in colognes, as a topnote material in aldehydic perfumes, etc.

Benzoin is an aromatic tree resin that has been highly valued in the fragrance industry for centuries. It is extracted from the bark of trees in the Styrax genus that are found in various regions across Southeast Asia, with some of the most sought-after varieties originating from the Laos, Siam, and Sumatra regions. Benzoin from Laos, also known as Laos or Lao benzoin, is characterized by its rich, sweet, and slightly vanilla-like aroma. It is often used as a base note in perfumes, providing a warm and comforting scent that lingers on the skin. In traditional medicine, Laos benzoin has been used to treat a range of ailments, from respiratory problems to skin conditions. Siam benzoin, also known as Siamese or Thailand benzoin, has a more complex fragrance profile than its Laos counterpart. It is characterized by its balsamic, woody, and slightly spicy aroma, making it a popular choice in perfume compositions that require a more nuanced and sophisticated scent. Siam benzoin is also used in traditional medicine, where it is believed to have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Sumatra benzoin, also known as Sumatran or Padang benzoin, is prized for its smoky, resinous, and almost leathery scent. It is often used in masculine fragrances, as its earthy and slightly pungent aroma provides a more assertive and bold scent profile. Sumatra benzoin is also used in aromatherapy to promote relaxation and reduce stress. Benzoin is also called gum benzoin or gum benjamin. But "gum" is incorrect as benzoin is not a polysaccharide. Its name came via the Italian from the Arabic luban jawi. Benzoin resin is also called styrax balsam or styrax resin, but wrongly since those resins are obtained from a different plant family, Hamamelidaceae. Benzoin was first reported in 1832 by Justus von Liebig and Friedrich Woehler during their research on oil of bitter almond which is benzaldehyde with traces of hydrocyanic acid. Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in incense-making and perfumery because of its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties. Gum benzoin is a major component of the type of church incense used in Russia and some other Orthodox Christian societies as well as Western Catholic Churches. Most benzoin is used in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and India, where it is burned on charcoal as incense. It is also used in the production of Bakhoor (Arabic scented wood chips) as well as various mixed resin incense in the Arab countries and the Horn of Africa. Benzoin tree is from Java, Sumatra and Thailand and grows to 8 meters (20 feet). Deep incisions are made in the trunk of the tree from which the grayish colored sap exudes. When the resinous lump becomes hard and brittle, it is collected from the bark of Benzoin. It is also used as a fixative in the perfume industry. Perfumery use of Benzoin can hardly be described other than as this material virtually blends with almost every known material. In traces it also helps Rose accords and can be used in high percentages in Musks and Orientals There are following unique Benzoin products manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd.

Evernia prunastri, also known as Oakmoss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and much of Central Europe. Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine. The thalli of Oakmoss are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, and grow together on bark to form large clumps. Oakmoss thallus is flat and strap-like. They are also highly branched, resembling the form of deer antlers. The colour of Oakmoss ranges from green to a greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture of the thalli are rough when dry and rubbery when wet. It is used extensively in modern perfumery. Oakmoss is commercially harvested in countries of South-Central Europe and usually exported to the Grasse region of France where its fragrant compounds are extracted as Oakmoss absolutes and extracts. These raw materials are often used as perfume fixatives and form the base notes of many fragrances. They are also key components of Fougère and Chypre class perfumes. The lichen has a distinct and complex odor and can be described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet. Oakmoss growing on pines have a pronounced turpentine odor that is valued in certain perfume compositions.Oakmoss should be avoided by people with known skin sensitization issues.n inky, bitter-smelling forest floor evocative, prized essence coming from the lichen that grows on oak trees in Europe (harvested in the Balkans). Nowadays severely restricted under skin sensitization concerns, it is nevertheless an essential part of chypre fragrances and fougère fragrances.Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials, especially in chypre and Fougère types of perfumes. Often used as a fixative, it not only improves the longevity of the composition but also lends a delicate forest-like, rich and earthy aroma to the fragrant composition, leaving a natural, damp and creamy soft trail. This raw material is usually commercially grown in South-Central Europe and exported to Grasse in France, where the majority of the perfumery houses are situated. Oakmoss absolutes and extracts, derived from the lichen, have a distinctively woody, sharp and very sensual aroma that combines very well with floral and green notes, and makes a great addition to oriental type fragrances. A special type of oakmoss which grows on pine trees has a slightly different, turpentine-like smell, which makes it highly valued among perfumers.Oakmoss absolute can be obtained by solvent extraction or by using vacuum distillation. The one obtained by solvent extraction is dark green or even brown in color and has a strong, natural, earthy-mossy scent with a slight leather undertone.One of the most beautiful material but sadly now after the ban , has been removed from most major fragrances. NO synthetic of any kind can give the complete picture of Oakmoss. A forest note that was one of the ingredients alongwith Lavander and Geranium to make a new family of fragrances , namely Fougeres. The most popular and largest family for Mens fragrances. Alongwith musks and Patchouli forms longlasting bases. In fact one of the most tenacious naturals known , the smell on the blotter can last upto a year !!!Expecially useful in accords where a lot of chemicals are present , as it can take away the rough edges of chemicals and can make the accord smell natural. Invaluable in Amber Bases.

Cypress

Pink Peppercorn NNO

Sugandhmantri NNO

Chrysanthemum V6

Hyssop

Wintergreen NNO+

Bergamot orange (Citrus bergamia) is a small, roughly pear-shaped citrus fruit, which grows on small trees known as bergamots. It is a cross between pear lemon and Seville orange or grapefruit. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the Ioanion, coastal region of the province of Reggio Calabria, South Italy. Where the soil and climatic conditions are very favourable for its cultivation.It is also cultivated in Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil.But in no other part of the world does it fructify with the same yield and quality of essence. Bergamot is named after Italian city of Bergamo, in which its oil was first sold. It has become a symbol of the entire region and city.This fruit is not edible and is cultivated for production of its essential oil.The essential oil of bergamot is expressed from the ripe fruit peel and is used extensively in perfumery for its sweet freshness.Bergamot oil is also used for flavouring purposes e.g. Earl Grey tea and the so called althea drops, candy-making. It is also used in aromatherapy to treat depression and also as a digestive aid. Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy note. Bergamot oil is used in production of both female and male perfumes and in most fragrance groups, mainly in top notes.It was a component of the original Eau de Cologne developed in Germany in the 17th century and today is used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes.Bergamot Oil is a green or olive green, mobile liquid of extremely rich, sweet-fruity initial odor. Although the characteristics of this topnote remain perceptible in good oils, it is followed by a still more characteristic oily-herbaceous and somewhat balsamic body and dryout. The sweetness yields to a more tobacco like and rich note, somewhat reminiscent of sage clary and neryl acetate. The freshness in the topnote is mainly due to terpenes and small amounts of citral and aliphatic aldehydes. Absence of the “oily” note is one of the most revealing features in poor or adulterated bergamot oils. The color of bergamot oil fades on ageing, particularly when the oil is exposed to daylight.One of the finest Top Note materials , the beauty of this oil is unimaginable. Can be used from 0.5% to 10%. An absolute beauty! It imparts freshness and diffusion to any fragrances or compound. Bases provided by BMV Fragrances can be used to create multiple accords as the perfumer likes for different applications.

Betel Oil is also known as “Pan Oil”. The essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the leaves of Piper Betle, the pepper family. The plant grows widely over the entire area between South Arabia and Southeast China. Production of oil takes place in India, China, Malaya and Pakistan. Betel Oil is yellow to brown, occasionally dark brown. It may discolor significantly during shipping if the container is an iron drum. The odor of the oil is distinctly phenolic, almost tar-like or “smoky”. There is a great deal of resemblance to the odor of mat6-leaves (or mate absolute) and to certain types of Chinese tea. The flavor of Betel Oil is bittet-acrid, warm and unpleasantly sharp, biting. The peculiar odor and flavor of this oil is due to its very high content of phenols which total about 75% of the oil. The most important of these phenols are: Chavibetol (also called betel phenol), Chavicol (which is para allyl phenol), Allyl Pyrocatechol (hydroxy chavicol), etc. Since Betel Oil is produced in Tongkin, it is not surprising that adulteration occasionally occurs with materials such as camphor oil. This addition is, however, clearly perceptible on an odor and flavor test or through a chemical analysis. Betel Oil is primarily used in the Far East in preparations similar to the betel chew, (i.e. areca nuts, wrapped in betel leaves and spiced with various pungent botanical, The betel leaves in this preparation represent the antiseptic part of the chew. BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. provides with true reconstituition with similar characteristics to that of the natural oil.

Bois de Rose Oil is steam distilled, occasionally water-distilled, from the chipped wood of Aniba Rosaeodora and possibly other species of the genus Burseraceae belonging to the laurel family. The tree is a tropical, medium-sized, wild-growing evergreen from the Amazon basin. The wood is collected in Brazil, Peru and in the French Guiana (“cayenne Rosewood”). In perfumery, the term Rosewood means only Bois de Rose of the above kind. The oil is used mainly as a starting material for the isolation of natural Linalool, of which the oil contains over 70%. The Iinalool in turn is converted into linalyl esters for many uses in perfumery and flavor work. Bois de Rose Oil is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of a refreshing, sweet-woody, somewhat floral-spicy odor. The topnote varies considerably with the origin and quality of the oil. It is usually somewhat camphoraceous-peppery, reminiscent of cineole and nutmeg terpenes. Bois de Rose Oil is also used as such (cleaned and free from water) in soap perfumes where the strong topnotes can be utilized to advantage. The isolated Linalool finds very extensive use in perfumery, e.g. of the floral types: lilac, muguet, neroli, sweet pea, etc. BMV Fragrances provides affordable Bois de Rose base and reconstitution for different applications.Due to Government Regulations natural oil is not steadily available , however Bois de Rose by BMV can effectively replace the natural oil and is also a very interesting product for future creations. Its soft floral odour forms a very nice bridge between the top notes and floral middle notes.

The blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) is a woody shrub in the family Grossulariaceae grown for its piquant berries. It is native to temperate parts of central and northern Europe and northern Asia where it prefers damp fertile soils and is widely cultivated both commercially and domestically. It is winter hardy but cold weather at flowering time during the spring reduces the size of the crop. Bunches of small, glossy black fruit develop along the stems in the summer and can be harvested by hand or by machine. The fruit is rich in vitamin C, various other nutrients, phytochemicals and antioxidants. Blackcurrants can be eaten raw but are usually cooked in a variety of sweet or savoury dishes. They are used to make jams, jellies and syrups and are grown commercially for the juice market. The fruit is also used in the preparation of alcoholic beverages and both fruit and foliage have uses in traditional medicine and the preparation of dyes.As a crop, the blackcurrant suffers from several pests and diseases. The most serious disease is reversion, caused by a virus transmitted by the blackcurrant gall mite. Another is white pine blister rust which alternates between two unrelated hosts, one in the Ribes genus (blackcurrant included) and the other a White pine. This fungus caused damage to forests when the fruit was first introduced into North America, where the native white pines have no genetic resistance to the disease. As a result, the blackcurrant has for most of the 20th century been subject to restrictions in parts of the United States as a disease vector. The effectiveness of these restrictions is questionable, since other Ribes species also host the disease and are native to North America.Breeding is being undertaken in Europe and New Zealand to produce fruit with better eating qualities and bushes with greater hardiness and disease resistance.On a garden scale, the berries should be picked when dry and ripe. Commercially, most harvesting is done mechanically by straddle harvesters.These move continually down the rows, straddling a row of bushes, shaking the branches and stripping off the fruit. The blackcurrants are placed into half tonne bins and to minimise stoppage time, some machines have cross conveyors which direct the fruit into continuously moving trailers in the adjoining row. A modern machine can pick up to fifty tonnes of blackcurrants in a day using only one operator and two tractor drivers. For culinary use, the fruit is usually cooked with sugar to produce a purée, which can then be passed through muslin to separate the juice. Blackcurrants are a common ingredient of Rødgrød, a popular kissel-like dessert in North German and Danish cuisines. Blackcurrants are also used in savoury cooking because their astringency creates added flavour in many sauces, meat and other dishes and they are included in some unusual combinations of foods. They can be added to tomato and mint to make a salad, used to accompany roast or grilled lamb, used to accompany seafood and shellfish, used as a dipping sauce at barbecues, blended with mayonnaise, used to invigorate bananas and other tropical fruits, combined with dark chocolate or added to mincemeat in traditional mince pies at Christmas.Japan imports $3.6 million of New Zealand blackcurrants for uses as dietary supplements, snacks, functional food products and as quick-frozen (IQF) produce for culinary production as jams, jellies or preserves.

Castoreum is the exudate from the castor sacs of the mature North American Beaver and the European Beaver within the zoological realm. Castoreum is derived from the Greek word Kastor meaning beaver. Castoreum is obtained from the animal source Caster Canadensis. The castor sacs are not true glands (endocrine or exocrine) on a cellular level, hence references to these structures as preputial glands or castor glands are misnomers. Castor sacs are a type of scent gland.Castoreum is mentioned in the works of the ancient commentators who mistakenly believed this musky substance is derived from the beaver’s testicles. In his tales, Aesop, the prominent Greek fabulist, retells the widespread hunter’s fallacy that cornered beaver bites off its own testicles, only to throw them to the hunter and so escape the death.And beavers were not hunted for their testicles but for their meat and waterproof fur, which is used to make coats. For this reason, castoreum was even used as an aphrodisiac. But now one company in Canada is farming beavers for Fur Coats and Castoreum is a by product. This now perhaps is the only Animal Product , legally available and allowed for use.There are at least twenty-four compounds known to be constituents of beaver castoreum. Some of these have pheromonal activity. These are the phenols,4-ethylphenol and 1,2-dihydroxybenzene (catechol) and the ketones acetophenone and 3-hydroxyacetophenone. Five additional compounds noted are 4-methyl-1,2-dihydroxybenzene (4-methylcatechol), 4-methoxyacetophenone, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, salicylaldehyde, and 3-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other neutral compounds are oxygen-containing monoterpenes such as 6-methyl-l-heptanol, 4,6-dimethyl-l-heptanol, isopinocamphone, pinocamphone, two linalool oxides and their acetates. Other compounds are: benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, borneol, o-cresol, 4-(4'-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone, hydroquinone, phenol. All those compounds are gathered from plant food. It also contains Nupharamine alkaloids and castoramine and cis-cyclohexane-1,2-diol.Acute toxicity studies in animals indicate that castoreum extract is nontoxic by both oral and dermal routes of administration and is not irritating or phototoxic to skin. Skin sensitization has not been observed in human subject tests. Castoreum extract possesses weak antibacterial activity. A long historical use of castoreum extract as a flavoring and fragrance ingredient has resulted in no reports of human adverse reactions. On the basis of this information, low-level, long-term exposure to castoreum extract does not pose a health risk. The objective of this review was to evaluate the safety-in-use of castoreum extract as a food ingredient.Castoreum is more liberally applied to denote the resinoid extract resulting from the dried and alcohol tinctured beaver castor. The dried beaver castor sacs are generally aged for two or more years to mellow and for their raw harshness to dissipate. It is used extensively in perfumery. It’s very pungent, strong animalic note makes it an interesting item in men’s perfume, fourgeres, chypres, oriental basis leather notes. The warm animal sweet leathery note of castoreum helps the accords achieve sensuality.Bases offered by BMV Fragrances help to create magical fragrances and accords with sensuality and class.

It has a soft, woody and "pencil-like" smell and has a faint undertone of sandalwood. It is pale yellow to light orange in color and is viscous. The tree is native to North America and grows up to 30 meters (100 feet) and ages up to 1,000 years. This is the tree Solomon used to build the Temple in Jerusalem. Cedrus libani or Lebanon cedar, from which the first essential oil was extracted, is very scarce due to over use. The Egyptians used the oil in the mummification process, in cosmetics and as a insect repellant, while native Americans used Cedar oil in medicine and burnt it for purification. These days the wood is often used in the making of pencils and boxes. Wood chips and sawdust are subjected to steam distillation to extract the oil and the yield is about 35 %. The main chemical components of cedarwood oil are a-cedrene, b-cedrene, thujopsene, other sesquiterpenes, cedrol and widdrol. In high concentration, cedarwood oil may irritate the skin and it should be avoided in pregnancy. The therapeutic properties of cedarwood oil are antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, tonic, astringent, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, insecticide, sedative and fungicide. Cedarwood oil benefits the skin by its sedating ability which relieves itching. Its astringent action is great for acne, oily skin, as well as for hair and dandruff. It helps with chest and urinary infections, acts as a general tonic and has a pronounced effect on mucus membranes. It has a calming and soothing effect on the mind and is of great help in conditions associated with anxiety and nervous tension. It is also of value in cases of arthritis and rheumatism. Cedarwood oil's great benefit lies in its ability to calm and sooth nerves. It relieves skin and hair problems and is important in easing conditions of a respiratory nature. It also clears urinary infections, rheumatism and arthritis. In vapor therapy, cedarwood oil can be used for arthritis, bronchitis, rheumatism, respiratory problems, as a general tonic and as an insect repellant. Cedarwood can be used in a blended massage oil, or diluted in the bath to assist with asthma, bronchitis, respiratory problems, catarrh, cystitis, painful joints, oily skin and dandruff. Care must be taken that it does not cause irritation to the mucus membranes. It blends well with benzoin, bergamot, cinnamon, cypress, frankincense, jasmine, juniper, lavender, lemon, neroli, rose and rosemary.BMV Fragarnces offers a woody cedary and rich reconstitution like no other.

This yellow-brown essential oil is steam distilled from an herb native to southern India and has a potent, fruity odor. The leafy green plant, which grows 12-18 inches tall and sports tiny, puffy yellow flowers, is revered by the people of the area who use the flowers in religious or ceremonial offerings. The whole plant is distilled right before the flowers open. Davanam also known as Artemisia pallens, dhavanam,Davana, Davana Oil can be obtained by the process of steam distillation from the flowers. Traditionally, Ayurvedic healers in India have long used the herb for all manner of women's reproductive issues, from helping to support regular menses to easing menopausal concerns. Davana can also assist with minor "sniffles" and people there often apply it to the skin when encountering life's minor "lumps and bumps." There is a popular folk belief that while Davana smells the same to everyone while in the bottle, it takes on a different individual fragrance of its own depending on who is wearing it. In modern times, Davana is popular in perfumery to provide a fruity top-note and as a flavoring agent in bottled beverages and baked goods. Davana really shines when used for emotional concerns. When life really gets to us, it soothes the nerves, restores emotional calm, and is exceptional for quieting the mind. Bacterial infection, bronchial congestion, coughs, colds, influenza, nervous stomach, indigestion, nausea, menstrual cramps, menopausal symptoms, general debility, anxiety, stress, irritability, tension. Davana essential oil fights infections that cause septic of internal and external wounds, urinary tracts, urethra, kidneys, and other body parts. It also provides protection against conditions like tetanus. This should be applied without delay in mild concentrations in cases of cuts and wounds, particularly from iron objects or dirty abrasives. The essential oil of Davana loosens up tough coughs and phlegm depositions in the respiratory tracts and makes breathing easier. It relieves congestion and reduces coughs, while also treating other problems such as a headache and pain in the joints that are often associated with having a cold. This oil also has mild vermifuge and insect repellant properties. It also shows hypotensive properties and brings down blood pressure. Davana oil is also used in making perfumes. Davana essential oil fights infections from bacteria, microbes, fungi, and viruses and helps cure infectious diseases. If used in fumigants, sprays, or vaporizers, it disinfects the whole area and makes it free from microbes. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why Davana flowers are used during religious worship. The essential oil of davana fights depression through relaxation and helps reduce blood pressure in situations of anxiety and stress. Davana oil gives mental peace and helps people to recover from the after effects of trauma. These oils act as an anti-depression, anti-septic, antiviral, disinfectant, emenagogue, expectorant, relaxant and vulnerary. Having an aromatic and balsamic persistent odour, these oils are available in golden yellow to light brown, in colour. These oils have a sweet and refreshing fruity aroma antiseptic and anti-tetanus properties. These are used for the treatment of spasms and pains.

Fixative is an old term for any natural substance that will hold and ‘fix’ and that helps a fragrance last longer on the skin. Alcohol-based scents are the most fleeting., So a substance is required to add for "anchor" the scent. Lowering the evaporation rate of the alcohol usually does this.Benzoin and Frankincense other resins and Tolu Balsam and Peru balsam are some of the more common additions to a blend that will help to ‘fix’ it. Orrisroot is also an excellent fixative, but it is a sensitizer (as is Benzoin), so perhaps reserving these for your potpourri mixtures might be a good idea. Fixatives are generally the base notes and kept at about 3-5%. The fixative for perfume can be a powerful part of the scent. Some think that any fragrance fixatives might impart to a scent should be kept to a minimum. However, some of these odors with powerful fixative for perfume qualities can be integrated into the scent as a base and form a powerful base.The formula of which can be used over and over again in other perfumes to make a fragrant accord. Perfume Fixatives are used to equalize the vapor pressures and thus the volatilities of the raw materials in a perfume oil. As well as to increase the tenacity. Natural fixatives are resinoids (benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, tolu balsam) and animal products (ambergris, castoreum, musk and civet). Synthetic fixatives include substances of low volatility (cyclopentadecanolide, ambroxide, benzyl salicylate) and virtually odorless solvents with very low vapor pressures (benzyl benzoate, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate). Their use in perfumery is essential as they help elongate shelf-life and integrate fragrances by blending aromasand holding individual or overall scents over time. Many fixatives also serve as basenotes such as sandalwood or vanilla. Natural fixatives can be tinctures, gums, resins, powders or essential oils each of them can come from an animal or plant source.There is a possibilty that one may use herbs in a fragrance to enhance it and use it as a fixative as well. Finding the right fixative with the right scent to add to a fragrance can be difficult because sometimes have to build a fragrance around basenote or fixative. However certain fixatives just guide into perfect smells such as sandalwood and vanilla. In fine perfumery often one works with delicate raw materials, resulting in a concentrate with outstanding fragrance properties. But not lasting and lingering as long as one might expect considering the usually high costprice of the compound. In the past animal-based products such as ambergris and civet were added as fixative to obtain a more lingering effect. At present these animal products are "product a non grata" and hardly in use anymore. Remains the fact that in many cases a good fixative is needed. Fixative BMV was developed to give the Perfumers a material that would not effect the overall odour profile . It is almost odourless and can be used upto 10% in Fragrances. The only drawback being its Non Solubility in Alcohol. On the other hand it is an excellent Odourless Fixative for Burning and Chewing tobacco applications

Geranium is a genus of 422 species of flowering annual, biennial, and perennial plants that are commonly known as the cranesbills. They are found throughout the temperate regions of the world and the mountains of the tropics, but mostly in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region. The long, palmately cleft leaves are broadly circular in form. The flowers have five petals and are coloured white, pink, purple or blue, often with distinctive veining. Geraniums will grow in any soil as long as it is not waterlogged. Propagation is by semiripe cuttings in summer, by seed, or by division in autumn or spring.Confusingly, "geranium" is also the common name of members of the genus Pelargonium (sometimes known as 'storksbill'), which are also in the Geraniaceae family. These are generally half-hardy plants which are either grown from seed every year, or offered as bedding in spring and discarded after flowering. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, but they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789. Other former members of the genus are now classified in genus Erodium, including the plants known as filarees in North America.The term "hardy geranium" is often applied to geraniums to distinguish them from the pelargoniums. However, not all geranium species are winter-hardy.The shape of the flowers offers one way of distinguishing between the two genera Geranium and Pelargonium. Geranium flowers have five very similar petals, and are thus radially symmetrical (actinomorphic), whereas pelargonium flowers have two upper petals which are different from the three lower petals, so the flowers have a single plane of symmetry (zygomorphic).Scientists from the Helmholtz Zentrum Munchen, Germany have found that South African geranium plant extracts represent a potential new class of anti-HIV-1 agents for the treatment of AIDS. Geranium oil can be used to help in the treatment of acne, bruises, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, hemorrhoids, lice, as a mosquito repellant, ringworm, ulcers, breast engorgement, edema, poor circulation, sore throat, tonsillitis, PMS, menopausal problems, stress and neuralgia.The essential oil prepared from the geranium herb has a pleasant, captivating and long-lasting aroma. Hence, it is widely used as a deodorant for regulating perspiration and purging body odor. One of the Most Important Essential Oil in a perfumers Lab , and nearly all perfumers will have two to three or maybe more types of Geranium in his Lab. One of the best known floralizer and limitless in application and percentage use in a compound. However technically there is only one True Geranium and that is Zdravetz Oil and the other so called Chinese Geranium , Egyptian Geranium etc are from the Pelargonium Family.

Hina is traditional Indian Perfume and is centuries old , the formulation or the method of production is very well kept and closely guarded. Handed over from generations. The odour of Hina is spicy floral herbal mossy sweet.It is basically distillation of various Herbs , Spices , Florals , Musk , Amber over Sandalwood Oil. Sandalwood Oil serves as a base and also works as a fixative. If a GCMS were to be done , Sandalwood Oil could make upto 95% and yet the overall odour has practically no smell of sandalwood. In present times since the price and availability of sandalwood oil has become prohibitive , different material both natural and synthetic are being used. Sadly the most popuplar being DOP , a totally banned material. In some cases also synthetic sandalwood molecules like ICCH , IBCH , SMC (KAO Corpn , Japan) are also being used. Henna is known as a traditional Ayurveda medicine. It shows various health benefits such as hypoglycaemic and hypolipidemic activities, inhibits the tuberculosis bacteria, and useful in skin diseases. According to Ayurveda , boiled aqueous extract of henna is effective remedy for the urinary stones. Moreover, henna extract prevents the liver damage occurred from exposure of carbon tetrachloride. But the basic process of manufacturing still remains the same. Modernisation seems to have been totally overlooked. BMV has developed this mystical ancient fragrance using modern techniques and based on mostly natural bases and absolutely NO DOP.

Keora Plant (Pandanus odoratissimus)The Kewra plant grows wild along the east coast of India. The plants producing the best floral bouquet are grown in Ganjam district of South Orrisa.It should be noted that Rampe plant (Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb) is different from Kewra plant. The fragrant leaves of Rampe plant (Pandan Patta) are used to flavor rice and curries.Kewra plant is dioecious, with male and female flowers produced on different plants. In Sanskrit, the plant is called Ketaki. The male plants are called 'Ketaki Viphala', and the female plants and called 'Swarana Ketaki'.The male plant - flower Only the flowers of the male plant are harvested to extract the floral bouquet to produce Kewra. The flower bouquet is sweet similar to rose flowers, and fruity. The Kewra plant grows up to 18 feet tall. The plants flower three times a year (Summer, Monsoon, and Winter). 60% of the flowers grow during monsoon season (July-September), and posses the best floral bouquet. 30% of the flowers grow during summer (May-June), and remaining 10% grow during winter (October-November). The creamy white color flowers are encased in long spikes about one foot long. On average, one mature plant can produce about 35 flower spikes.The female plant - flowerThe flower of female plant has no floral bouquet. It is left to develop into fruit.The fruitThe female plant bears a fruit that looks like a pineapple. When ripe, the fruit develops a very mild bouquet. The fruit is edible.The leaves have no fragrance, they are not edible. The leaves are fibrous and used to weave baskets and mats.The stem and roots have no fragrance and are not edible. The stem and roots are fibrous and used to as a tie for basket and mat making. They are also cut about 8" long pieces, one end is pounded to make it into a coarse brush. The flavouring derived from a variety of pandan, Pandanus fascicularis. Used in India, it is also called kewda essence and is from the male inflorescence of the plant. It is strongly floral. Use an eye-dropper to add a drop at a time in case too much goes in and ruins the dish. Concentrated oil made from pandanus flowers used to flavor desserts and beverages in Indian cuisine.Widely used in desserts and beverages. It adds a good aroma, when added to vermicelli Kheer or custards.·Kewra essence, made from kewra flowers, is used for flavouring sweets in sugar syrup, like petha (candied white pumpkin), Ras Malai (cream cheese cooked in double cream). Itr kewra, a stronger concentrate than ruh kewra, is used in dry sweets like barfi (milk toffee) and gajar halwa (grated carrot pudding). Kewra is also used to perfume pulaos. Pan Masala and Gutka are the largest consumer of Indian attars. The reason for using it is its extraordinary tenacity along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco note. Kewra Ruh (Oil) this is 100% pure oil extracted from male Kewra flowers. It takes about 1,000 flowers to produce one ounce of Kewra Ruh. In Ayurveda, the oil is used as a stimulant, and to treat rheumatoid arthritis. Kewra Attar (Perfume) the Kewra flowers are distillated into sandalwood oil. Kewra Attar has about 3% to 5% Kewra oil, and the remainder is Sandalwood oil. Normally, it is specified in terms of number of flower spikes (10,000 to 15,000) per pound of sandalwood oil. This is the most popular perfume used in India. It is applied behind ears, and used to scent clothes. The perfume is also added to various cosmetics. Kewra Jal (Hydrosol)The fragrant hydrosol may be either a primary product from low quality flowers collected during hot summer. It may be a secondary product from Kewra Ruh or Attar production. Kewra Jal is also called Kewra water. Kewra Jal is about 0.02% of Kewra oil. 24 flowers can produce one pound of primary hydrosol.BMV provides a range of classic Keora products with rich odor like Keora NNO.

Labdanum, also called ladanum or ladan, is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient.In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs.Wooden instruments used were referred to in 19th-century Crete as ergastiri;a lambadistrion ("labdanum-gatherer") was a kind of rake to which a double row of leathern thongs were fixed instead of teeth.These were used to sweep the shrubs and collect the resin which was later extracted. It was collected by the shepherds and sold to coastal traders. Many of the false beards worn by the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were made of goats' hair which was held together by labdanum.The resin was also used to treat colds, coughs, menstrual problems and rheumatism.Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation. The raw gum is a black (sometimes dark brown), fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is plastic but not pourable, and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance is more refined than the raw resin. The odour is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries because its precursor originates from the sperm whale, which is an endangered species.Labdanum is the main ingredient used when making the scent of amber in perfumery. Labdanum's odour is variously described as amber, animalic, sweet, woody, ambergris, dry musk, or leathery.Labdanum is a rich brown resin sourced from the cistus shrubs of the species rockrose. This sticky resin is used since the ancient times as a natural remedy and perfume ingredient.Back in the past, the resin was used to treat various ailments such as menstrual problems, rheumatism, and common colds. Today, the resin is mainly used in the perfume industry and obtained by boiling the leaves and twigs, by solvent extraction, or steam distillation.Most modern labdanum is sourced in Spain, on the borders of Spain and Portugal,but in Spain's territory. Labdanum's odor profile is highly complex. Often compared to amber, it is a balsam-like and slightly musty scent in its raw form, with woody, earthy, smoky, marshy and even honey and plum undertones. Prized for its rich, sweet and vegetal mossy aroma, it is commonly used in modern perfumery to render leather or ambergris notes.Labdanum is one of the most important product on a perfumers list , its odour is invaluable for certain formulations. Its use can hardly be restricted to any area except floral accords. A wonderful fixative.Bases provided by BMV are perfect for creating fragrances for bakhoors and agarbattis.

Lavandula (common name lavender) is a genus of 39 species of flowering plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. It is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, southern Europe across to northern and eastern Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to southeast India. Many members of the genus are cultivated extensively in temperate climates as ornamental plants for garden and landscape use, for use as culinary herbs, and also commercially for the extraction of essential oils. The most widely cultivated species, Lavandula angustifolia is often referred to as lavender, and there is a colour named for the shade of the flowers of this species.The genus includes annual or short-lived herbaceous perennial plants, and suffrutescent perennials, subshrubs or small shrubs.Leaf shape is diverse across the genus. They are simple in some commonly cultivated species; in others they are pinnately toothed, or pinnate, sometimes multiple pinnate and dissected. In most species the leaves are covered in fine hairs or indumentum, which normally contain the essential oils.Flowers are borne in whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage, the spikes being branched in some species. Some species produce coloured bracts at the apices. The flowers may be blue, violet or lilac in the wild species, occasionally blackish purple or yellowish. The calyx is tubular. The corolla is also tubular, usually with five lobes (the upper lip often cleft, and the lower lip has two clefts). The English word lavender is generally thought to be derived from Old French lavandre, ultimately from the Latin lavare (to wash), referring to the use of infusions of the plants.The botanic name Lavandula as used by Linnaeus is considered to be derived from this and other European vernacular names for the plants. However it is suggested that this explanation may be apocryphal, and that the name may actually be derived from Latin livere, "blueish".Lavender Oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula Officinalis, a wild growing or cultivated plant, native to the Mediterranean countries. Distillation takes place mainly in the south of France where the plants grow at medium altitudes of this mountainous region (from 600to 1500 metres altitude). Distilleries located at high altitude produce oils of higher ester content, not only because of the theory that the high-altitude, wild-growing plants contain more esters, but also because of the fact that high-altitude distillation means lower temperature-boiling. Consequently, the distilledoil is not exposed to 100”C. hot steam, but perhaps only to 92 or 93”C.An absolute gem, among the top materials for blending. Lavender has been responsible for many successful fragrances worldwide and is still going strong. There is whole family of Perfumes namely Fougeres that are based on Lavender. Lavender Oil (French type) is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of sweet, floral-herbaceous refreshing odor with a pleasant, balsamic-woody undertone. An almost fruity-sweet top note is of a very short life, and the entire oil is not distinguished by its tenacity in odor. It is used extensively in colognes (citrus-colognes or the well-known lavender-waters), in fougeres, chypres, ambres and countless floral, semi-floral or particularly in non-floral perfume types. The oil blends well with bergamot and other citrus oils, clove oils etc.

Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) is actually a hybrid created from true lavender (lavendula augustifolia) and spike lavender (Lavendula latifolia). The true lavender grows higher in the mountains while the spike lavender or aspic as it is sometimes known grows down lower. Where they tended to meet they would cross pollinate and lavandin came into being. As it is a hybrid it’s appearance can vary some, but in general it is a larger plant than true lavender with woody stems. The flowers vary from blue like true lavender to more greyish, similar to spike lavender. Lavandin also has aromatherapy uses similar to true lavender but it is more penetrating. It has a stronger scent and is considered beneficial for inflammation, respiratory and circulatory conditions. It is also thought to be very helpful in fighting germs. Feel free to reach for lavandin to help with sore muscles and joint pain, aid in clearing sinuses and symptoms of colds and flu and flushing toxins from your system. It does have many of the same actions as true lavender.One benefit it does NOT share with lavender is the ability to help heal burns. Apparently due to its higher camphor content it can actually make the burns worse. The scent of lavandin is similar to lavender but more pungent with a slightly different note to it. Instead Lavandin is used in some soap blends to help intensify the lavander scent as well as to extend its staying power. Another thing about Lavandin is that it is less likely to have been adulterated as opposed to true lavender. To summarize: Lavandin is an important essential oil in its own right and is extremely useful for the soap maker when blending scents. It has many beneficial qualities and in many respects is similar to Lavender but should not be used interchangeably as the issue with treatment for burns points out.The Lavandin, plant from which this essential oil is obtained, is not a natural plant in the true sense, because it was born as a result of the hybridization of two plants with the scientific names Lavandula Angustifolia and Lavandula Latifolia. That is why Lavandin is scientifically known as Lavandula Hybrida and Lavandula Hortensis.The aroma and medicinal properties of Lavandin are quite similar to those of Lavender, but they are more intense and sharp, since it is a hybrid. The main components of this oil are Lavandulol, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Camphor, Cineole, Caryophyllene, Camphene, Dipentene, Limonene, Ocimene, and Terpinene.Lavandin oil boosts self esteem, confidence, hope, and mental strength, while efficiently fighting depression. As an antidepressant, it can be systematically administered to patients of acute depression who are undergoing rehabilitation.The essential oil of Lavandin has certain compounds which contribute to its antiseptic properties. By virtue of this property, Lavandin Oil can protect wounds from becoming septic. It is found to be effective in preventing incisions from becoming septic or getting infected from tetanus, particularly after surgery, caesarian deliveries and other wounds. It relieves the deposition of phlegm, cramps, stiffness and pain in muscles and helps cure sinusitis,dermatitis and colds. Being a different species it is no surprise that lavandin oil is different from L.angustifolia oil. Lavandin because of its strong similarity to lavender and much lower prices has become a very big product. In fact in certain compositions its odour profile is better suited than lavender. In soap and incense formulations it gives better effects, because of a higher percentage of Camphor & Borneol.Lavandin Oil blends well with countless natural and synthetic perfume materials. More recently the old-fashioned “Rondeletia’’-theme has found a renaissance in the combination of lavandin oil with clove oils, eugenol, bay leaf oil, cinnamon leaf oil, etc. Other blenders are aliphatic aldehydes (modifiers, topnotes), amyl salicylate, citronella oils, cypress oil, decyl alcohol, geranium oils, geranyl acetone, isobornyl acetate, pine needle oils, thyme or origanum oils, patchouli (also fixative), etc.

Lemon (Citrus limomum) is a small evergreen tree native to Asia. The tree's ellipsoidal yellow fruit is used for culinary and non-culinary purposes throughout the world, primarily for its juice, though the pulp and rind (zest) are also used in cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6% citric acid,which gives lemons a sour taste.Expressed Lemon Oil is a yellow to greenish yellow or pale yellow mobile liquid of very light, fresh and sweet odor, truly reminiscent of the ripe peel. No turpentine-like, harsh-terpene notes should be detectable on a perfume blotter. Good oils retain their fresh lemon odor practically unchanged on a blotter until there is no odor left at all. Expressed Lemon Oil is used in perfumes and flavors for its refreshing, sweet-fruity note. It is one of the more important ingredients in the old-fashioned citrus-type of colognes, in “Eau de Verveine” and other toilet waters, lotions, aerosol sprays, etc. It finds general application as a freshener and topnote ingredient in countless perfume types. Lemon Oil blends well with other citrus oils, with lavender oil, lavandin, elemi, labdanum, petitgrain, neroli, etc. and among the most common fixatives for lemon oil are coumarin, vanillin, cinnamates, elemi resinoid, oakmoss products, araucaria oil, etc.

Natural animal musks have long been used as fragrances in beauty products, but because they are expensive to produce, scientists have developed synthetic chemicals to replace them. These synthetic compounds include nitro and non-nitro benzenes, indans and tetralins. Musk xylene, musk ketone and musk ambrette are three of the most commonly used synthetic nitro musk compounds. They are produced and used throughout the world in such scented products as detergents, soaps, lotions and perfumes. In 1988, an estimated 7,000 tons of musks were produced worldwide.Very little scientific research has been done on synthetic musk fragrances in the environment. Much of what research has been conducted is from Germany, and the subset of those studies that are available have shown that musks, and especially nitro musks, biodegrade very slowly, if not as slowly as PCBs and some of the other extremely persistent organic pollutants. Nitro musks have been shown to accumulate in fat and have been found in surface and wastewater, freshwater fish, shellfish and in human fat, blood and breast milk.No studies have determined nitro musks' toxicity to humans, but musk compounds have been shown to cause cancer in laboratory rodents. Studies have also demonstrated significant transfer of nitro musks from mother to developing rodent fetuses and infants through blood and mothers' milk. To test the hypothesis that nitro musks may have entered subjects' blood through skin application of beauty products, one German study tested nitro musk levels in all the scented health and beauty products used at least three to four times a week by study participants with elevated blood nitro musk levels. The study found that high nitro musk levels in frequently used products were correlated with higher blood levels in subjects who reported using these products. All of the people with elevated nitro musk levels in this study were female, suggesting the possibility that women may be more highly exposed than men to nitro musks through their use of scented health and beauty products. Few nationwide bans and restrictions on nitro musks have been imposed because musks have only recently been identified in humans and in the environment and because little toxicity data is available on nitro musks.However, some nations have taken steps to reduce exposures. For example, Japan has completely banned musk xylene; the United States in 1979 forbade companies from using musk xylene in cosmetic products that may be ingested; and the German detergent industry voluntarily removed musk xylene from production in 1993. Some individual companies also report that they are beginning to phase nitro musks out of their products. For example, The Body Shop states on its website that it currently sells products containing musk xylene, musk ketone and polycyclic musk, but that new products are being developed without these ingredients to replace existing products. Because nitro musk contamination is a relatively newly understood phenomenon, no benchmarks or "safe" levels have been set for human exposure. The creation of this class of musks was largely prompted through the need for eliminating the nitro functional group from nitro-musks due to their photochemical reactivity and their instability in alkaline medium. This shown to be possible through the discovery of ambral, a non-nitro aromatic musk, which promoted research in the development of nitro-free musks. This led to the eventual discovery of phantolide, so named due to its commercialization by Givaudan without initial knowledge of it chemical structure (elucidated 4 years later). While poorer in smell strength, the performance and stability of this compound class in harsh detergents led to its common use, which spurred further development of other polycyclic musks including Galaxolide. Nitrolide has been developed to offer perfumers a safe ingredients with the qualities of the Nitro Musks , this is in fact a substitute for Musk Ambrette which has been totally banned from all formulations. Musk Ambrette with its unique odour cannot be directly replaced by any other musk, whatsoever. Nitrolide is a complex mixture and comes close to being a substitute for that.

Evernia prunastri, also known as Oakmoss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and much of Central Europe. Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine. The thalli of Oakmoss are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, and grow together on bark to form large clumps. Oakmoss thallus is flat and strap-like. They are also highly branched, resembling the form of deer antlers. The colour of Oakmoss ranges from green to a greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture of the thalli are rough when dry and rubbery when wet. It is used extensively in modern perfumery.Oakmoss is commercially harvested in countries of South-Central Europe and usually exported to the Grasse region of France where its fragrant compounds are extracted as Oakmoss absolutes and extracts. These raw materials are often used as perfume fixatives and form the base notes of many fragrances. They are also key components of Fougère and Chypre class perfumes. The lichen has a distinct and complex odor and can be described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet. Oakmoss growing on pines have a pronounced turpentine odor that is valued in certain perfume compositions. Oakmoss should be avoided by people with known skin sensitization issues.n inky, bitter-smelling forest floor evocative, prized essence coming from the lichen that grows on oak trees in Europe (harvested in the Balkans). Nowadays severely restricted under skin sensitization concerns, it is nevertheless an essential part of chypre fragrances and fougère fragrances.Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials, especially in chypre and Fougère types of perfumes. Often used as a fixative, it not only improves the longevity of the composition but also lends a delicate forest-like, rich and earthy aroma to the fragrant composition, leaving a natural, damp and creamy soft trail.This raw material is usually commercially grown in South-Central Europe and exported to Grasse in France, where the majority of the perfumery houses are situated. Oakmoss absolutes and extracts, derived from the lichen, have a distinctively woody, sharp and very sensual aroma that combines very well with floral and green notes, and makes a great addition to oriental type fragrances. A special type of oakmoss which grows on pine trees has a slightly different, turpentine-like smell, which makes it highly valued among perfumers. Oakmoss absolute can be obtained by solvent extraction or by using vacuum distillation. The one obtained by solvent extraction is dark green or even brown in color and has a strong, natural, earthy-mossy scent with a slight leather undertone. One of the most beautiful material but sadly now after the ban , has been removed from most major fragrances. NO synthetic of any kind can give the complete picture of Oakmoss. A forest note that was one of the ingredients alongwith Lavander and Geranium to make a new family of fragrances , namely Fougeres. The most popular and largest family for men's fragrances. Alongwith musks and Patchouli forms longlasting bases. In fact one of the most tenacious naturals known , the smell on the blotter can last upto a year !!! Expecially useful in accords where a lot of chemicals are present , as it can take away the rough edges of chemicals and can make the accord smell natural. Invaluable in Amber Bases.

Opoponax or sweet myrrh is a cousin of the healing Myrrh—Commiphora Myrrha—with a warm-balsamic and sweet, honey-like aroma. It is a natural oleo-gum-resin like myrrh and frankincense. The color of its resin is brown; however, good quality crude botanical resin is dark red. Opoponax has been a component of incense and perfumes since Biblical times. Talking of perfumery in particular, Opoponax qualities from several Commiphora are widely used, especially in oriental fragrances, to impart sweet balsamic notes..Opopanax (also: Opoponax) refers to a number of gum resins with medicinal properties.In perfumery, opopanax refers to the resin obtained from Commiphora erythraea Engl. var. glabrescens Engl., a tree growing in Somalia. A resinoid is prepared from the resin by solvent extraction. Steam distillation of the resin gives the essential oil, which has a warm, sweet, balsamic odor. Opopanax oil and resinoid are used in perfumes with oriental characteristics.African opopanax is the resin of Commiphora kataf .Opopanax, a major export article from Somalia since ancient times, is also known as bisabol - bissa bol (Hindi) and as hebbakhade - habak hadi (Somali). "bissa bol" (Hindi) is scented myrrh, in contrast to "heera bol", bitter myrrh. However, the botanical origin of bisabol is Commiphora guidottii (Burseraceae) and not Commiphora erythraea, as generally has been presumed.Opopanax is also known as "perfumed bdellium". Talking further of Commiphora guidottii Chiov., it is also known as scented myrrh. It is a yellowish-red sweet-smelling resin. And of its use from Ancient Romans, they used it as incense in temples. It is fairly widespread in Somalia and in adjacent parts of the Ogaden in Ethiopia, and speaking of its export, Somalia is considered the major exporter of scented myrrh at present. Its shrub or tree grows up to 5 m tall and has greenish or brownish peeling bark. The leaves are composed of 3 or 5-7 leaflets, 2.5 x 10 cm long when fully mature and oval to broadly oval in shape. The flowers are cream in color and very small, being only a few mm wide at most. The fruit is rounded, about 1 cm in diameter and contains a single stone.Extraction of the opoponax is done through the tapping of trees just as that of frankincense and myrrh by making incisions in the bark and also by breaking of the twigs. A gum seeps out of these incisions which then solidifies to brown lumps. Opoponax extract is obtained by solvent extraction or steam distillation from the gum exudate of the barks, which includes all types of extracts, tinctures, concretes, resinoids, pomades, absolutes, rectified extracts etc.While the oil is distilled by dry-distillation or steam-distillation, flash pasteurization etc., it includes all types of essential oils obtained by the these methods. Opoponax oil is a useful material in perfumery which is sweet, balsamic and almost effervescent in character. It is mainly used in oriental accords and also gives a sweet lift to chypre fragrances as a top note. Whereas, its absolute is used as base note. The olfactory difference between myrrh oil and opopanax oil is the vegetable-soup-like, slightly animalic-sweet odor of opopanax oil compared with the medicinal-sharp freshness of myrrh oil. But still the odours are quite comparable and the usage also is quite similar.

Agarwood, also known as oud, oodh or agar, is a dark resinous heartwood that forms in Aquilaria and Gyrinops trees (large evergreens native to southeast Asia) when they become infected with a type of mould. Prior to infection, the heartwood is relatively light and pale coloured; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin embedded heartwood.The resin embedded wood is commonly called gaharu, jinko, aloeswood, agarwood, or oud (not to be confused with 'Bakhoor') and is valued in many cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes.First-grade agarwood is one of the most expensive natural raw materials in the world. A whole range of qualities and products are on the market, varying in quality with geographical location and cultural deposition. Oud oil is distilled from agarwood, it fetches high prices depending on the oil's purity. The current global market for agarwood is estimated to be in the range of US$ 6 – 8 billion and is growing rapidly.There are seventeen species in the genus Aquilaria and eight are known to produce agarwood. In theory agarwood can be produced from all members; however, until recently it was primarily produced from A. malaccensis. A. agallocha and A. secundaria are synonyms for A. malaccensis. A. crassna and A. sinensis are the other two members of the genus that are usually harvested. Agarwood is reputed to be the most expensive wood in the world. There are many names for the resinous, fragrant heartwood produced primarily by trees in the genus Aquilaria. Most commonly, the resin is known as agarwood, aloeswood, eaglewood, gaharu, agalocha or oudh (In Arabic).Agarwood has been used to make high quality incense since centuries. The Chinese describe its smell as "a sweet, deep but balanced fragrance" and use it in religious and festive celebrations, and so do Arabian, Indian and Japanese people.Agarwood is also part of many traditional pharmacopoeias, dating back to medieval times and Chinese doctors still prescribe it for colds and disgestion problem. Oil extracted from agarwood is used in Arabian countries as a perfume. The Indian sub-continent was the main source of agarwood for many centuries but as trees became scarce in the middle of the twentieth century, extraction intensified in Indochina. Later on it was extended to Indonesia and Malaysia. Today Agarwood plantations exist in a number of countries, including Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Laos, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, Thailand and Vietnam.It can grow on a wide range of soils, including poor sandy soil. Seedlings of most species establish best in shady, moist conditions, but large adult trees sometimes become emergent in the forest and can withstand full sun. Some species can be found growing on steep, rocky, exposed slopes, and in regions that experience a hot, dry season. The trees grow to 6-20 m tall.The leaves are alternate, 5-11 cm long and 2-4 cm broad, with a short acuminate apex and an entire margin. The flowers are yellowish-green, produced in an umbel, the fruit is a woody capsule 2.5-3 cm long. At least fifteen species of Aquilaria trees are known to produce Agarwood. The smell of Oud cannot be described in words , one of the most complex odours showing Animalic , mossy , woody , forest , moist and lingering. Currently most of the manufacturers are marketing a fragrance with this oil or in most cases a substitute. Together with Rose , Patchouli and Sandalwood , and a touch of Saffron will form a beautiful mukhallat.

Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin; also patchouly or pachouli) is a species of plant from the genus Pogostemon. Patchouli belongs to mint family. This wonderful herb is green bushy. The genus of patchouli is Pogostemon and it may grows up to two or three feet in height. The flower color of this herb is delicate pinkish-white. The leafs are aromatic and are being used in perfumery since long long ago. The leafs have a strong and wonderful scent characteristics. The native place of Patchouli is tropical regions of Asia, but patchouli grows in all warm to tropical climates very well. Currently all Asia cultivate many many varieties of the Pogostemon genus. Aromatic oil known in West Africa and South America as patchouli oil. The origination of the term patchouli comes from very ancient Tamil words patchai, which means "green", and ellai means "leaf". The native land of this herb, is easily identified by it's name which is Dravidian. The Dravidian language is being spoken by mostly Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret. Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world.It is a bushy herb of the mint family, with erect stems, reaching two or three feet (about 0.75 metre) in height and bearing small, pale pink-white flowers. The heavy and strong scent of patchouli has been used for centuries in perfumes and, more recently, in incense, insect repellents, and alternative medicines. Pogostemon cablin, P. commosum, P. hortensis, P. heyneasus and P. plectranthoides are all cultivated for their essential oil, known as patchouli oil.Patchouli grows well in warm to tropical climates. It thrives in hot weather but not direct sunlight. If the plant withers due to lack of water, it will recover well and quickly after rain or watering. The seed-producing flowers are very fragrant and blossom in late fall. The tiny seeds may be harvested for planting, but they are very delicate and easily crushed. Cuttings from the mother plant can also be rooted in water to produce additional plants. Extraction of patchouli's essential oil is by steam distillation of the leaves, requiring rupture of its cell walls by steam scalding, light fermentation, or drying. Leaves may be harvested several times a year and, when dried, may be exported for distillation. Some sources claim the best quality oil is usually produced from fresh leaves distilled close to where they are harvested; others that baling the dried leaves and fermenting them for a period of time is best. Patchouli is used widely in modern perfumery and modern scented industrial products such as paper towels, laundry detergents, and air fresheners. Two important components of its essential oil are patchoulol and norpatchoulenol. Patchouli is an important ingredient in East Asian incense. Both patchouli oil and incense underwent a surge in popularity in the 1960s and 1970s in the US and Europe, mainly as a result of the hippie movement of those decades.A must have in any perfumers arsenal, especially the bases and recosntitutions offered by BMV.

Petitgrain is an essential oil that is extracted from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange plant (Citrus aurantium var. amara) via steam distillation. Its main regions of production are Paraguay and France, with the former's product being of higher odour tenacity. Petitgrain oil gains its name from the fact that it used to be extracted from the small unripe oranges of the plant. The oil has a greenish woody orange smell that is widely used in perfumery and found in colognes.Though distilled from the same botanical species as neroli and bitter orange, Petitgrain Essential Oil possesses its own characteristically unique aroma. Petitgrain Essential Oil is distilled from the leaves and sometimes the twigs and branches of the tree whereas neroli essential oil is distilled from the blossoms and Orange Essential Oil is typically cold pressed from the rinds of the fruits. The main constituents of petitgrain oil are geraniol, geranyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, myrcene, nerol, neryl acetate, and terpineol. Citrus fruits are treasure troves of wonderful medicinal properties and this has earned them a significant place in the world of aromatherapy and herbal medicines. The Essential Oil of Oranges is extracted from the peels of oranges by cold compression, while the Essential Oil of Petitgrain is extracted from the fresh leaves and young and tender twigs of orange tree through steam distillation.This oil is extensively used in the perfume and cosmetics industries, as well as in food and beverages as a flavouring agent, due to its remarkable aroma. Apart from being used in aromatherapy, the Petitgrain oil has numerous uses in herbal medicine. The refreshing, energizing, and delightfully woody yet floral fragrance of Petitgrain Essential Oil does not leave any trace of body odour. It also curbs the growth of bacteria in those parts of the body that are always subjected to heat and sweat and remain covered by clothes so sunlight cannot reach them. In this way, this essential oil prevents body odour and various skin infections which result from these bacterial growths. It is good for maintaining the moisture and oil balance of the skin as well as for treating acne, pimples, abnormal sweating (those who suffer from nervousness have this problem), dryness and cracking of the skin, and ring worm. It also soothes nausea since it is an anti-emetic. When used in the summer, it gives a cool and refreshing feeling. Petitgrain with its unique citrus , slightly bitter and faintly rice like odour is excellent for modifying citrus notes in colognes and mens fragrances. Very useful for Toilet Soap Compounds.

The distilled essence of organically grown Rosa damascena flowers in the Himalayan mountains of India is a rare and precious aromatic treat. Currently only a few innovative farmers are engaged in growing in distilling Rosa damascena in several remote areas but the oil that they produce is of a remarkably lovely quality.This precious essential rose oil, like Rosa damascena otto distilled in several other countries like Bulgaria, South Africa and Turkey, is a clear, transparent liquid when temperatures are warmer but as soon as cooler temperatures prevail becomes a solid or semi solid waxy mass due to the presence of steroptenes-floral waxes that come over in the process of distillation. These floral waxes play in an important role in stablizing the oil and giving it good radiant strength over a long period of time. The are a natural fixative for the highly volatile aromatic constituents of the oil. The essential oil displays an incredibly rich, ethereal, sweet, deep, warm, full floral bouquet with a slightly spicy-honeyed undertone. As it ages the harmony of the different aromatic molecules that compose the total oil become more and more harmonious and integrated creating an aura of perfect floral beauty.The radiation of Ruh Gulab is unique an surprising. It grows from a quiet aromatic center and spreads silently into the atmosphere but suddenly one is engulfed in its magnetic sphere. If one goes out of the room in which a small drop of oil is suffusing itself in to the environment and then returns after a few minutes then they will receive a unique type of invisible aromatic bath that it is immensely refreshing and satisfying. Ruh Gulab is a very complex, sweet floral scent. The reputation of Rose Flower Absolute of being a must ingredient in perfumes is well deserved. Rosa Damascena Absolute is important to note that all absolutes are extremely concentrated by nature. They should not be evaluated in this state unless you are accustomed to the undiluted fragrance. It is also known as Gulab Attar. Noorjahan the wife of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir is famous for having invented the attar of Roses. This is prepared from fresh flowers and suitable for all climates and occasions. It is used in Sweet supari, Cosmetics compounds and Cosmetic Products. Rose oil obtained from the fresh flowers of Rosa Damascena, cultivated in Uttar Pradesh, India. It is a transparent pale yellow mobile liquid. This oil is valued in the preparation of high grade perfumery and cosmetic Products. The main constituent being Rose Oxide, I-citronellol, nerol, Geraniol, phenyl ethyl alchohol. Rose otto can be used with a great variety of natural aromatics including agarwood/oud eo and co2; amberi attar; ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; auraucaria eo; bakul attar; beeswax absolute, benzoin abs; bois de rose/rosewood eo; boronia abs; citrus oils; carnation abs; cassie abs; clary sage eo and abs; clove bud eo, co2 and abs; fir balsam abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and geranium oil and abs; hay abs; guaicwood oil; hina flower attar; jasmine abs (grandiflorum, auriculatum and sambac); jonquil abs; lavender, co2 and abs; lavindin and abs; mimosa abs; musk, black attar; nagarmotha and co2; narcissus abs; neroli ; night queen abs and attar; oakmoss abs; opoponax and abs; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; patchouli , co2 and abs rose oils and abs(damascena, bourbonia, centifolia); ruh kewda and kewda attar; saffron attar and co2; sandalwood, co2 and abs; shamama attar; siamwood; styrax and abs; tonka bean abs; tuberose attar and abs; vanilla abs; vetiver, co2 and abs;violet leaf abs; ylang, co2 and abs. In perfumery ruh gulab/rose otto is used in Oriental bouquets, high class colognes, high class floral perfumes, literary perfumes, culinary creations, chypres, sacred perfumes, mythological creations.

Rosmarinus officinalis, commonly known as rosemary, is a woody, perennial herb with fragrant, evergreen, needle-like leaves and white, pink, purple, or blue flowers, native to the Mediterranean region. It is a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, which includes many other herbs. The name "rosemary" derives from the Latin for "dew" (ros) and "sea" (marinus), or "dew of the sea". The plant is also sometimes called anthos, from the ancient Greek word ?????, meaning "flower".Rosmarinus officinalis is one of 2-4 species in the genus Rosmarinus'. The other species most often recognized is the closely related, Rosmarinus eriocalyx, of the Maghreb of Africa and Iberia. The genus was named by the 18th-century naturalist and founding taxonomist Carolus Linnaeus.Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen shrub that has leaves similar to hemlock needles. The leaves are used as a flavoring in foods such as stuffings and roast lamb, pork, chicken and turkey. It is native to the Mediterranean and Asia, but is reasonably hardy in cool climates. It can withstand droughts, surviving a severe lack of water for lengthy periods. Forms range from upright to trailing; the upright forms can reach 1.5 m (5 ft) tall, rarely 2 m (6 ft 7 in). The leaves are evergreen, 2–4 cm (0.8–1.6 in) long and 2–5 mm broad, green above, and white below, with dense, short, woolly hair. The plant flowers in spring and summer in temperate climates, but the plants can be in constant bloom in warm climates; flowers are white, pink, purple or deep blue.Rosemary is used as a decorative plant in gardens and has many culinary and medical uses. The plant is said to improve the memory. The leaves are used to flavor various foods, such as stuffings and roast meats. Since it is attractive and drought tolerant, rosemary is used as an ornamental plant in gardens and for xeriscape landscaping, especially in regions of Mediterranean climate. It is considered easy to grow and pest-resistant. Rosemary can grow quite large and retain attractiveness for many years, can be pruned into formal shapes and low hedges, and has been used for topiary. It is easily grown in pots. The groundcover cultivars spread widely, with a dense and durable texture.Rosemary grows on friable loam soil with good drainage in an open, sunny position. It will not withstand waterlogging and some varieties are susceptible to frost. It grows best in neutral to alkaline conditions (pH 7–7.8) with average fertility. It can be propagated from an existing plant by clipping a shoot (from a soft new growth) 10–15 cm (4–6 in) long, stripping a few leaves from the bottom, and planting it directly into soil.The leaves, both fresh and dried, are used in traditional Italian cuisine. They have a bitter, astringent taste and are highly aromatic, which complements a wide variety of foods. Herbal tea can be made from the leaves. When burnt, they give off a mustard-like smell and a smell similar to burning wood, which can be used to flavor foods while barbecuing. Rosemary oil is used for purposes of fragrant bodily perfumes or to emit an aroma into a room. It is also burnt as incense, and used in shampoos and cleaning products.

Polianthes tuberosa doesn't have any botanical or olfactory relation to roses, despite the name. This small white blossom flowering plant is its own thing, a "white floral" (in the same class as jasmine and orange blossom) with an intensity and creaminess beyond any other: Though the scent can be likened to that of orange blossom and gardenia, tuberose has interesting facets of camphor in the opening (comparable to - but not quite that green - as budding gardenias), of dewy mushroom and earth when in bloom and then of rot and bloody meat when browning. Buttery, rubbery and even metallic facets also emerge if one searches for them. The natural blossoms are so powerful they can fill a room and continue to exude their scent for days after picking. The tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is a perennial plant related to the agaves, extracts of which are used as a middle note in perfumery. The common name derives from the Latin tuberosa, meaning swollen or tuberous in reference to its root system. Polianthes means "many flowers" in Greek. In Mexican Spanish the flower is called nardo or vara de San José, which means ‘St. Joseph’s staff’. The tuberose is a night-blooming plant thought to be native to Mexico along with every other species of Polianthes. It grows in elongated spikes up to 45 cm (18 in) long that produce clusters of fragrant waxy white flowers that bloom from the bottom towards the top of the spike. It has long, bright green leaves clustered at the base of the plant and smaller, clasping leaves along the stem.Members of the closely related genus Manfreda are often called "tuberoses". In the Philippines, the plant is also known as azucena, and while once associated with funerals it is now used in floral arrangements for other occasions.Tuberose foliage has grassy foliage, similar in appearance to daylilies. Each stem can bear a dozen or more white blooms, which may remain closed if the heat is particularly stifling. True to its agave heritage, the flowers are slightly waxy, offering protection against desiccation, but the blooms can still shrivel in direct sun when temperatures are 95 degrees F or greater. If this sounds typical of your summers, plant the bulbs where they will receive some afternoon shade.In northern climates, tuberoses may not bloom until the latter part of August, but you can start the bulbs indoors in early spring to give them a head start. However, the bulbs are easy to start outdoors, if you’re patient enough to wait three to four months for the first blooms:Plant them in soil with good drainage in a sunny location.Space the bulbs six inches apart, and cover them with two inches of soil. Make sure the bulbs get a weekly drink, either through rain or irrigation. No note in perfumery is more surprisingly carnal, creamier or contradicting than that of tuberose. The multi-petalled flower is a mix of flower shop freshness and velvety opulence. Which is why it is the perennial polarizing flower note having as many ardent fans as passionate detractors. The Victorians must have been among the latter: they forbade young girls of inhaling the scent of tuberose in the fear they might have a spontaneous orgasm! Roja Dove is right when he says that tuberose is really loose, the "harlot of perfumery". Tuberose Absolute is used—when available and when the cost allows for such extravagance-in high-class floral perfumes of the heaviest and sweetest types: frangipanni, stephanotis, caprifolium, lilac, heliotrope, gardenia, violet, and in heavy Oriental types, opopanax, in fantasy perfumes,etc. With an annual world production measured in kilos and never in tons, and being one of the most expensive of all perfume materials, One of the most Famous and Technically Brilliant owes its success to Tuberose namely "Poison" by C Dior. And ever since then the usage of this material has been increasing steadily.

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil. Other common names Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena. The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks). Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.For desert coolers in summer in North India.Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.Vetiver Oil is used extensively in perfumery not only as a fixative, but also as an odor contributor in bases such as fougere, chypre, modern woody -aldehydic or ambre-aldehydic bases, Oriental bases, moss and wood notes, opopanax bases, rose bases, etc. It blends well with linalool,cinnamicalcohol,patchouli,sandalwood,oakmoss products,amylsalicylate, lavender, clary sage, mimosa, cassie, opopanax, isoeugenol, etc.The oil also serves for the isolation of Vetiverol and Vetiverone, the former again being used to produce Vetiveryl Acetate.

Cananga odorata, commonly called ylang-ylang ee-lang-ee-lang),[1] cananga tree, ilang-ilang, kenanga in Indonesian, fragrant cananga, Macassar-oil plant or perfume tree,[2] is a tropical tree which originates from the Philippines and is valued for its perfume. The essential oil derived from the flowers is used in aromatherapy.Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang-ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexapetalus, climbing ylang-ylang,[5] are woody, evergreen climbing plants in the same family. A. odoratissimus is also a source of perfume.C. odorata is a fast-growing tree of the custard-apple family Annonaceae. Its growth exceeds 5 m (15 ft) per year[citation needed] and attains an average height of 12 m (40 ft) in an ideal climate. It grows in full or partial sun, and prefers the acidic soils of its native rainforest habitat. The evergreen leaves are smooth and glossy, oval, pointed and with wavy margins, and 13–20 cm (5–8 in) long. The flower is drooping, long-stalked, with six narrow, greenish-yellow (rarely pink) petals, rather like a sea star in appearance, and yields a highly fragrant essential oil. The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich and deep with notes of rubber and custard, and bright with hints of jasmine and neroli. The essential oil of the flower is obtained through steam distillation of the flowers and separated into different grades (extra, 1, 2, or 3) according to when the distillates are obtained. The main aromatic components of ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, responsible for its characteristic odor.The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. It is believed to relieve high blood pressure, normalize sebum secretion for skin problems, and is considered to be an aphrodisiac. According to Margaret Mead, it was used as such by South Pacific natives such as the Samoan Islanders where she did much of her research. The oil from ylang-ylang is widely used in perfumery for oriental or floral themed perfumes (such as Chanel No. 5). Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit and wood scents.In Indonesia, ylang-ylang flowers are spread on the bed of newlywed couples.In the Philippines, its flowers, together with the flowers of the sampaguita, are strung into a necklace (lei) and worn by women and used to adorn religious images. Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes up 29% of the Comoros' annual export (1998).Ylang-ylang is a common flavoring in Madagascar for ice cream.Ylang-Ylang Oil is usually a yellowish,somewhat oily liquid, with a powerful and intensely sweet, but also soft-balsamic floral odor and an unusual tenacity in its floral-woody undertones.The oil is useful in general perfumery as a floral additive of extremely versatile application. It blends with almost any other floral natural or synthetic material, and gives good effects in a concentration of 0.5~. up to about 5% of the perfume base.There is hardly any floral type, where ylang-ylang “extra” would not fit in. The oil blends excellent 1y with bois de rose,vetiver, amyl salicylate, opopanax, bergamot,hydroxycitronellal, mimosa, cassie, methylionones,cinnamic alcohol and esters, benzoates, paracresyl esters (ethers), nerolidol, Peru balsam oil,vertenex HC, etc. and with gardenia bases,stephanot is baws, tuberose bases, etc.

Zarda is a type of smokeless tobacco product consumed by placing a portion of the tobacco between the cheek and gum or upper lip teeth and chewing. Unlike dipping tobacco, it is not ground and must be manually crushed with the teeth to release flavor and nicotine. Unwanted juices are then expectorated (spat). Zarda is typically manufactured as several varieties of product – most often as loose leaf (or scrap), pellets (tobacco "bites" or "bits"), and "plug" (a form of loose leaf tobacco condensed with a binding sweetener). Nearly all modern chewing tobaccos are produced via a process of leaf curing, cutting, fermentation and processing or sweetening. Zarda comes in several different varieties. Loose Leaf Loose leaf chewing tobacco is the most widely available and most frequently used type of chewing tobacco. It consists of shredded tobacco leaf, usually sweetened and sometimes flavored, and often sold in a sealed pouch weighing on average 3oz. Loose leaf chewing tobacco has a sticky texture due to the sweeteners added.Common loose leaf chewing tobaccos include Red Man, Levi Garrett, Beechnut, and Stoker's. Plug Plug chewing tobacco is pressed tobacco leaves into a square, brick-like mass of tobacco. From this, bites are taken from the plug, or can also be cut off and then chewed. Plug tobacco is declining in popularity, and thus is less readily available than loose leaf chewing tobacco. Some brands include Cannon Ball, Days Work, and Levi Garrett Plug. Historically, plug tobacco could be either smoked in a pipe or chewed, but today these are two distinct products. Twist Twist chewing tobacco is a rope-like piece of tobacco twisted together. Unlike most loose leaf tobaccos, twist chewing tobacco is usually not sweetened. Pieces of twist are either bitten off or cut and then chewed. Some brands of twist include Cotton Boll, Cumberland, and Warren County. Twist chewing tobacco is not widely available and is mostly found in Appalachia. Historically, twists could also be smoked in a pipe, or ground up into nasal snuff.

In the Islamic history, all Prophets are known to have used Bakhoor, but Prophet Mohammad used Bakhoor regularly and more specifically on Fridays. "Bakhoor” is the Arabic name given to scented bricks or a blend of natural traditional ingredients, mainly woodchips (generally Agarwood) soaked in fragrant oils and mixed with other natural ingredients like Resin, Musk, Ambergris, Sandalwood , flower oils and others. These scented chips are burned in charcoal burners to perfume the house and clothing with the fragrance rich smoke. This is used specifically on special occasions like weddings or on relaxing times and love occasions or generally just to perfume the house or store, and to boost positive energy. It is traditional in many Arab countries to pass Bakhoor among guests in Majlis as a gesture of hospitality. The Bakhoor is usually burned in a traditional incense burner known as Mabkhara using charcoal of wood or manufactured charcoal discs and briquettes. Bakhoor is known to bring about calmness in the nervous system, cultivates focus and alertness when used and, as some say, the positive effect it gives to one's libido system when used regularly. Bakhoor is indeed an aromatherapy, is not gender-specific and can be enjoyed by both sexes, though some females may prefer a blended version of Bakhoor due to the strong potent smell of the pure Oud Bakhoor. In the Middle East, men and women burn Bakhoor to fragrance their houses and also their clothes so that the lasting scent will permeate the whole garment. BMV has pursued a lot of research in the field of Bakhoors. BMV offers a wide range of Bakhoors, both for the middle east and India.

Mukhallat in arabic means mix or mixture. Mukhallat is the latest trend in fine fragrances and slowly and steadily becoming a global trend. Mukhallats are famous in the middle east region comprising of heavy florals and woody essential oils. Basically, a mukhallat is a mixture of saffron, rose, sandal and oudh. Over the years, other essentials oils like jasmine have crawled their way in the formulations. Attars and hinas and shamamas have also been used to give the mukhallats a twist. One of the most important characteristic of a mukhallat is it's longevity. Mukhallats are made using heavy materials that lasts long on the skin. This is predominantly because of the middle eastern weather. Because of the higher temperature in that region, fragrances evaporate a lot quicker. So, it was imperative for mukhallats to last long to be successful. BMV over the years has been working meticulously and with dedication to create new types of mukhallats for the middle east. BMV offers a wide range of Mukhallats only for exports. There are various kinds of mukhallats that BMV offers. From traditional mukhallats with rosy sandally and saffronic tones to modern types which are a lot fresher.

Hedychium Coronarium is a plant species native to Himalayas region of Nepal and India, Myanmar and Thailand. Hedychium spicatum smallish hardy perennial that grows to around 1 m, with green leaves and large orange and white flowers. Hedychium spicatum smallish hardy perennial that grows to around 1 m, with green leaves and large orange and white flowers. It is also known as Spiked Ginger Lily, Sandharlika or Kapur kachri in Hindi, and Takhellei in Manipuri. Ginger Lily is a very typical Indian species of Ginger grown only in Northern Parts of India near Himalayan Ranges. It is used in India for skin care products and in classical Indian perfumes. The smell is really wonderful! The oil is extracted from dried roots. Has a very tenacious and sweet smell ideal for a male perfume. The aroma is a blend of warm woody notes with a soft hint of spice, and a touch of soft floral. In India the fragrant rhizomes of H. spicatum are a considerable item of trade. The dried rhizomes are burned as incense. The essential oil derived from the rhizomes is used in perfumery. Therapeutically, an extraction of the root is used in Ayurveda. Research indicates that the oil has a slightly tranquilizing action, as well. Emotionally, it is said to promotes and brings in peaceful feelings and thoughts. Conjures mental images, feelings. Helpful in elevating the mental state to a sense of euphoria. Believed to help maintain a level emotional state and general goodwill in large groups of people. In Aromatherapy, Ginger Lily Essential Oil has warm, woody, spicy, light floral aroma.

Its original habitat may have been along the Nile and other locations in East Africa. It spread to other locations , like the Indian Subcontinent and Thailand. The leaves are broadly rounded, 25–40 cm across, with a notch at the leaf stem. The flowers are 10–15 cm in diameter.Reports in the literature by persons unfamiliar with its actual growth and blooming cycle have suggested that the flowers open in the morning, rising to the surface of the water, then close and sink at dusk. In fact the flower buds rise to the surface over a period of two to three days and when ready open at approximately 9–9:30 am and close about 3 pm. The flowers and buds do not rise above the water in the morning, nor do they submerge at night. The flowers have pale bluish-white to sky-blue or mauve petals. Smoothly changing to a pale yellow in the centre of the flower.The flower is very frequently depicted in Egyptian art. It has been depicted in numerous stone carvings and paintings, including the walls of the famous temple of Karnak. It is frequently depicted in connection with "party scenes", dancing or in significant spiritual / magical rites such as the rite of passage into the afterlife. In modern culture blue lotus flowers are used to make various concoctions including blue lotus tea, wine and martinis. Recipes for such drinks involve steeping or soaking the petals, about 10–20 grams for up to three weeks. Blue lotus 'tea' is prepared by boiling the entire flowers for 10–20 minutes. Recent studies have shown Nymphaea caerulea to have mild psycho-active properties. It may have been used as a sacrament in ancient Egypt and certain ancient South American cultures. Eating Blue Lotus can act as a mild sedative. Nymphaea caerulea is distantly related to and possesses similar activity to Nelumbo nucifera the Sacred Lotus. Both Nymphaea caerulea and Nelumbo nucifera contain the alkaloids nuciferine and aporphine. The mildly sedating effects of Nymphaea caerulea makes it a likely candidate (among several) for the lotus plant eaten by the mythical Lotophagi in Homer's Odyssey.This lotus is used to produce perfumes since ancient times. It is also used in aromatherapy.Nymphaea caerulea, also known as the Blue Egyptian water lily an aquatic flower native to Egypt Nymphaea nouchali. Also known as the Red and blue water lily, Blue star water lily or Star lotus, an aquatic flower native to the Indian subcontinent Nelumbo nucifera also known as Indian Lotus. Sacred Lotus, Bean of India, or simply Lotus an aquatic flower native to tropical Asia and Queensland, Australia. Blue Lotus can even be used as such for a lovely White Flower Aroma or can be used in a blend alongwith Lyral , Lilial , Hydroxycitronellal , Hedione as a floralizer.

Incense is aromatic biotic material which releases fragrant smoke when burned. The term refers to the material itself, rather than to the aroma that it produces. Incense is used for a variety of purposes, including the ceremonies of all the main religions, to overcome bad smells, repel insects, spirituality, aromatherapy, meditation, and for simple pleasure. Incense is composed of aromatic plant materials, often combined with essential oils.The forms taken by incense differ with the underlying culture, and have changed with advances in technology and increasing diversity in the reasons for burning it.Incense can generally be separated into two main types: "indirect-burning" and "direct-burning". Indirect-burning incense (or "non-combustible incense") is not capable of burning on its own, and requires a separate heat source. Direct-burning incense (or "combustible incense") is lit directly by a flame and then fanned or blown out, leaving a glowing ember that smoulders and releases fragrance. Direct-burning incense is either a paste formed around a bamboo stick, or a paste that is extruded into a stick or cone shape.The word incense comes from Latin for incendere "to burn". Combustible boutiques were used by the ancient Egyptians, who employed incense within both pragmatic and mystical capacities. Incense was burnt to counteract or obscure malodorous products of human habitation, but was putatively perceived to also deter malevolent demons and appease the gods with its pleasant aroma.Resin balls were found in many prehistoric Egyptian tombs in El Mahasna, furnishing tangible archaeological substantiation to the prominence of incense and related compounds within Egyptian antiquity.The oldest extant incense burner originates from the 5th dynasty. The Temple of Deir-el-Bahari in Egypt contains a series of carvings that depict an expedition for incense.Incense burners have been found in the Indus Civilization. Evidence suggests oils were used mainly for their aroma. India also adopted techniques from East Asia, adapting the inherited formulation to encompass aromatic roots and other indigenous flora. This comprised the initial usage of subterranean plant parts within the fabrication of incense. New herbs like Sarsaparilla seeds, frankincense and cyprus were used by Indians for incense.A variety of materials have been used in making incense. Historically there has been a preference for using locally available ingredients. For example, sage and cedar were used by the indigenous peoples of North America. Trading in incense materials comprised a major part of commerce along the Silk Road and other trade routes, one notably called the Incense Route.The same could be said for the techniques used to make incense. Local knowledge and tools were extremely influential on the style, but methods were also influenced by migrations of foreigners, among them clergy and physicians who were both familiar with incense arts. BMV has developed Incense Crystals , a mixture of various resins and oils which have good burning effects. It can be used in both Agarbatti formulations and Bakhoor formulations to give a typical incense effect. Can be used upto 20% in strong burning blends and upto 2.5% in light floral blends. Even on its own the effect is pleasant and soothing.

A civet is a small, lithe-bodied, mostly nocturnal mammal native to tropical Asia and Africa, especially the tropical forests. The term civet applies to over a dozen different mammal species. Most of the species diversity is found in southeast Asia. The best-known civet species is the African Civet, Civettictis civetta. Which historically has been the main species from which was obtained a musky scent used in perfumery. The word civet may also refer to the distinctive musky scent produced by the animals.The common name is used for a variety of carnivorous mammalian species, mostly of the family Viverridae. The African Palm Civet (Nandinia binotata) is genetically distinct and belongs in its own monotypic family, Nandiniidae. Civets are also called "toddycats" in English and "musang" in Malay. The latter may lead to some confusion as the indigenous word "musang" has been appropriated to foxes, which exist in popular culture but are not native and generally never encountered in that geographical region. The civet produces a musk (also called civet) highly valued as a fragrance and stabilizing agent for perfume. Both male and female civets produce the strong-smelling secretion, which is produced by the civet's perineal glands. It is harvested by either killing the animal and removing the glands or by scraping the secretions from the glands of a live animal. The latter is the preferred method today.Animal rights groups, such as the World Society for the Protection of Animals, express concern that harvesting musk is cruel to animals. Between these ethical concerns and the availability of synthetic substitutes, the practice of raising civets for musk is dying out. African civet lives in savannahs and forests of South and central Africa, while Indian civet lives in Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. These animals produce odorous secretion with purpose of marking their territory. Diluted after some time the odor of civet secretion which normally is strong and repulsive becomes pleasant with animalistic-musk nuance. For the purpose of collecting this secretion, animals are kept in cages. Luckily, this scent is nowadays mainly synthetic. Naturally the byproduct of the anal glands of exotic civet cats (technically no cats). Which smells very pungent and fecal but which gives an amazing radiance and warmth to florals. The Asian palm civet also called toddy cat is a small member of the Viverridae family native to South and Southeast Asia. In 2008, the IUCN classified the species as Least Concern as it is tolerant of a broad range of habitats. Now synthetically replicated with civetone for ethical reasons. Following CIVET products are manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd , Civet NNA or Zibetha at 0.1% levels will enhance sensuality and provide velvety smoothness. Suggested to use at 10% dilution and is very easy to overdose. The beauty and strength of these two products are fully evident once incorporated in a blend. Civet Crystals is a hard strong fecal musky note for burning and soap application.

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a penetrating odor obtained from a gland of the male musk deer. The substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times and is one of the more expensive animal products in the world. The name originates from the Sanskrit word for "testicle", mu?ká, and has come to encompass a wide variety of aromatic substances with similar odors despite their often differing chemical structures. Until the late 19th century, natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk, which is now used almost exclusively. The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk is muscone. In Ayurveda, musk has been considered as a life-saving drug and used in various cardiac, mental and neurological disorders. It has also been included in various compound formulations, such as Kasturi Bhairav Ras, Kasturi Modak, Mrignabhyadi Vati and Mrigamadsar, which have wide therapeutic applications. Some plants such as Angelica archangelica or Abelmoschus moschatus produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These compounds are widely used in perfumery as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks. Since obtaining the deer musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic, sometimes called "white musk". They can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. The first two groups have broad uses in industry ranging from cosmetics to detergents. However, the detection of the first two chemical groups in human and environmental samples as well as their carcinogenic properties initiated a public debate on the use of these compounds and a ban or reduction of their use in many regions of the world. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace them since these compounds appear to be safer.

Ambergris, a solid waxy substance originating in the intestine of the sperm whale (Physeter catodon). In Eastern cultures ambergris is used for medicines and potions and as a spice; in the West it was used to stabilize the scent of fine perfumes. Ambergris floats and washes ashore most frequently on the coasts of China, Japan, Africa, and the Americas and on tropical islands such as the Bahamas. Because it was picked up as drift along the shores of the North Sea, ambergris was likened to the amber of the same region, and its name is derived from the French words for “gray amber.” Fresh ambergris is black and soft and has a disagreeable odour. When exposed to sun, air, and seawater, however, it hardens and fades to a light gray or yellow, developing a subtle and pleasant fragrance in the process. Chemically, ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol. Ambergris was commonly ground into a powder and dissolved in dilute alcohol. Rarely used today due to trade restrictions, its unique musky character added a long-lasting bouquet to the scent of essential flower oils, but, more important, ambergris was a fixative that prevented fragrance from evaporating. Some chemical components of ambergris are now produced synthetically. Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 g (~½ oz) to 50 kg (110 pounds) or more. When initially expelled by or removed from the whale, the fatty precursor of ambergris is pale white in color (sometimes streaked with black), soft, with a strong fecal smell. Following months to years of photo degradation and oxidation in the ocean, this precursor gradually hardens, developing a dark grey or black color, a crusty and waxy texture, and a peculiar odor that is at once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic. Its smell has been generally described as a vastly richer and smoother version of isopropanol without its stinging harshness. In this developed condition, ambergris has aspecific gravity ranging from 0.780 to 0.926. It melts at about 62 °C to a fatty, yellow resinous liquid; and at 100 °C (212 °F) it is volatilized into a white vapor. It is soluble in ether, and in volatile and fixed oils. It has been developed after extensive research and analysis of the natural product which is no longer available. Ambergris is relatively nonreactive to acid. White crystals of a substance called ambrein can be separated from ambergris by heating raw ambergris in alcohol, then allowing the resulting solution to cool. Breakdown of the relatively scentless ambrein through oxidation results in the formation of ambrox and ambrinol, which are the main odour components of ambergris. The product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Is known as Ambergris Maui. It is a very close reproduction of the Natural Ambergris and has been developed to offer perfumers a ready to use material with NO restrictions. A 10% dilution in DPG can be used at 0.1% level in all kinds of Fancy Accords for exceptional diffusion. For Oriental Accords especially for the middle east upto 1% can be used to boost the Agarwood effect.

BMV Fragrances (P) Ltd. other perfumery bases.

The botanical name of Ambrette is Hibiscus abelmoschus L. It is a tropical hibiscus with beautiful bright yellow flowers, and its distinctive seed pods look so similar to okra that the plant is sometimes referred to as “musk okra” or “ornamental okra.”Ambrette is native to India, where it is known as Mushkdana or Kasturi Bhendi. The plant grows to just over a meter in height and is an evergreen shrub. When mature the pods split open to reveal kidney-shaped seeds that have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance.Ambrette has long been appreciated in perfumery as one of the few plant oils that contains natural musk compounds, including one named after the plant, ambrettolide.Many synthetic musks are cooked up in laboratories these days, but for people who care about natural products, there is no substitute for the natural.Ambrette oil is expensive and rare because so much work goes into creating it. Unlike some oil crops where the plant leaves are used, Ambrette oil is made only from seeds, which weigh very little and must be carefully gathered.The seeds represent a tiny fraction of the biomass of the entire plant, and only a very small yield of essential oil is achieved -- 0.2% to 0.6% of the total weight of the seeds.In natural perfumery, it can be used in a wide range of compositions including musk bases, amber accords, high class florals, oriental bouquets, incense perfumes, fougere, and new mown hay.Ambrette oil is pale yellow, with an enchanting aroma described variously as sweet, rich, warm musky, fatty and nutty, with floral overtones.After a short period of aging, more complex notes can emerge, such as wine, brandy, fruit, and tobacco. Like all musks, Ambrette is a perfumery base note.It is a powerful, tenacious scent. The main application of Ambrette seed oil is in Perfumes, Tobacco flavoring, Liqueurs and some Fruit flavours. It imparts an exalting effect to fragrance and lends a unique bouquet.However, fragrances need to be matured for about 2-3 weeks for Ambrette seed to show it's beauty. Ambrette seed super is the special product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd.Ambrette seed super is meant to be a replacement for the natural product and is available at a fraction of the cost.It has a very persistent Floral - Musky odour and can be used in almost all types of fragrances.At 0.1% level it has the ability to enhance odour perception for all accords. Perfumes especially that are worn on the skin, Ambrette seed super will impart volume and sensuality.

Sandalwood is the name of a class of fragrant woods from trees in the genus Santalum. The woods are heavy, yellow, and fine-grained, and unlike many other aromatic woods, they retain their fragrance for decades. Sandalwood oil is extracted from the woods for use or can be made sandalwood synthetic. Both the wood and the oil produce a distinctive fragrance that has been highly valued for centuries. Consequently, the slow-growing trees have been overharvested in many areas.Sandalwoods are medium-sized hemiparasitic trees, and part of the same botanical family as European mistletoe. Notable members of this group are Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) and Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum); others in the genus also have fragrant wood. These are found in Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Australia, Indonesia, Hawaii, and other Pacific Islands.Santalum album, or Indian sandalwood, is a threatened species. It is indigenous to South India, and grows in the Western Ghats and a few other mountain ranges such as the Kalrayan and Shevaroy Hills. Although sandalwood trees in India, Pakistan and Nepal are government-owned and their harvest is controlled, many trees are illegally cut down. Sandalwood oil prices have risen to $2,000 per kg recently. Price may vary for natural and sandalwood synthetic. Sandalwood from the Mysore region of Karnataka (formerly Mysore), and Marayoor forest in Kerala, southern India, is high in quality. New plantations were created with international aid in Tamil Nadu for economic exploitation. In Kununurra in Western Australia.Indian sandalwood (S. album) is grown on a large scale. Santalum ellipticum, S. freycinetianum, and S. paniculatum, the Hawaiian sandalwood, were also used and considered high quality. These three species were exploited between 1790 and 1825 before the supply of trees ran out (a fourth species, S. haleakalae, occurs only in subalpine areas and was never exported). Although S. freycinetianum and S. paniculatum are relatively common today, they have not regained their former abundance or size, and S. ellipticum remains rare.[1][2]Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood) is used by aromatherapists and perfumers. The concentration differs considerably from other Santalum species. In the 1840s, sandalwood was Western Australia’s biggest export earner. Oil was distilled for the first time in 1875, and by the turn of the century, production of Australian sandalwood oil was intermittent.Sandalwood oil has a distinctive soft, warm, smooth, creamy and milky precious-wood scent.It imparts a long-lasting, woody base to perfumes from the oriental, woody, fougère, and chypre families, as well as a fixative to floral and citrus fragrances. When used in smaller proportions in a perfume, it acts as a fixative, enhancing the longevity of other, more volatile, materials in the composite. Last but not least, sandalwood is a key ingredient in the "floriental" (floral-ambery) fragrance family – when combined with white florals such as jasmine, ylang ylang, gardenia, plumeria, orange blossom, tuberose, etc.Natural Sandalwood oil in India or synthetic sandalwood oil is widely used in the cosmetic industry. The main source of true sandalwood, S. album, is a protected species, and demand for it cannot be met. Many species of plants are traded as "sandalwood". The genus Santalum has more than 19 species.

Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron crocus. Crocus is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Saffron crocus grows to 20–30 cm (8–12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas, which are the distal end of a carpel. Together with the styles, or stalks that connect the stigmas to their host plant, the dried stigmas are used mainly in various cuisines as a seasoning and colouring agent.Saffron, long among the world's most costly spices by weight is native to Greece or Southwest Asia and was first cultivated in Greece. As a genetically monomorphic clone, it was slowly propagated throughout much of Eurasia and was later brought to parts of North Africa, North America, and Oceania.The saffron crocus, unknown in the wild, probably descends from Crocus cartwrightianus, which originated in Crete C. thomasii and C. pallasii are other possible precursors. The saffron crocus is a triploid that is "self-incompatible" and male sterile. It undergoes aberrant meiosis and is hence incapable of independent sexual reproduction—all propagation is by vegetative multiplication via manual "divide-and-set" of a starter clone or by interspecific hybridisation.If C. sativus is a mutant form of C. cartwrightianus, then it may have emerged via plant breeding,which would have selected for elongated stigmas, in late Bronze Age Crete.Saffron's taste and iodoform- or hay-like fragrance result from the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal.It also contains a carotenoid dye, crocin, which imparts a rich golden-yellow hue to dishes and textiles. Its recorded history is attested in a 7th-century BC Assyrian botanical treatise compiled under Ashurbanipal, and it has been traded and used for over four millennia. Iran now accounts for approximately 90% of the world production of saffron.A degree of uncertainty surrounds the origin of the English word, "saffron" although it can be traced to have stemmed immediately from 12th-century Old French term safran, which comes from the Latin word safranum. Safranum comes from the Persian intercessor. Old Persian is the first language in which the use of saffron in cooking is recorded, with references dating back thousands of years.In fact some sources argue that it originated from Middle East/Persia and became associated with Greek, Spanish, and Indian cuisines.Saffron's aroma is often described by connoisseurs as reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes, while its taste has also been noted as hay-like and sweet. Saffron also contributes a luminous yellow-orange colouring to foods. Saffron is widely used in Indian, Persian, European, Arab, and Turkish cuisines. Confectioneries and liquors also often include saffron.Common saffron substitutes include safflower (Carthamus tinctorius, which is often sold as "Portuguese saffron" or "ACAFRAO"), annatto, and turmeric (Curcuma longa). Saffron has also been used as a fabric dye, particularly in China and India, and in perfumery. It is used for religious purposes in India, and is widely used in cooking in many cuisines, ranging from the Milanese risotto of Italy to the bouillabaisse of France to the biryani with various meat accompaniments in South Asia.

asmine (taxonomic name Jasminum is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family (Oleaceae). It contains around 200 species native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Jasmines are widely cultivated for the characteristic fragrance of their flowers. A number of unrelated plants contain the word 'Jasmine' in their common names (see Other plants called 'Jasmine').Jasmines can be either deciduous (leaves falling in autumn) or evergreen (green all year round), and can be erect, spreading, or climbing shrubs and vines. Their leaves are borne opposite or alternate. They can be simple, trifoliate, or pinnate. The flowers are typically around 2.5 cm (0.98 in) in diameter. They are white or yellow in color, although in rare instances they can be slightly reddish.The flowers are borne in cymose clusters with a minimum of three flowers, though they can also be solitary on the ends of branchlets. Each flower has about four to nine petals, two locules, and one to four ovules. They have two stamens with very short filaments. The bracts are linear or ovate. The calyx is bell-shaped. They are usually very fragrant. The fruits of jasmines are berries that turn black when ripe.The basic chromosome number of the genus is 13, and most species are diploid (2n=26). However, natural polyploidy exists, particularly in Jasminum sambac (2n=39), Jasminum flexile (2n=52), Jasminum primulinum (2n=39), and Jasminum angustifolium (2n=52).Jasmines are native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, and Australia.Among the 200 species, only one is native to Europe.Their center of diversity is in South Asia and Southeast Asia.Although not native to Europe, a number of jasmine species have become naturalized in Mediterranean Europe. For example, the so-called Spanish jasmine or Catalonian jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) was originally from Iran and western South Asia, and is now naturalized in the Iberian peninsula.Jasminum fluminense (which is sometimes known by the inaccurate name "Brazilian Jasmine") and Jasminum dichotomum (Gold Coast Jasmine) are invasive species in Hawaii and Florida. Jasminum polyanthum, also known as White Jasmine, is an invasive weed in Australia.Species belonging to genus Jasminum are classified under the tribe Jasmineae of the olive family (Oleaceae).Jasminum is divided into five sections—Alternifolia, Jasminum, Primulina, Trifoliolata, and Unifoliolata.Widely cultivated for its flowers, jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. The flowers are worn by women in their hair in southern and southeast Asia. The delicate jasmine flower opens only at night and may be plucked in the morning when the tiny petals are tightly closed, then stored in a cool place until night.The petals begin to open between six and eight in the evening, as the temperature lowers.Jasmine syrup, made from jasmine flowers, is used as a flavouring agent.Many species also yield an absolute, which is used in perfumes and incense. Its chemical constituents include methyl anthranilate, indole, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and skatole.Jasmine gave name to the jasmonate plant hormones as methyl jasmonate isolated from the jasmine oil of Jasminum grandiflorum led to the discovery of the molecular structure of jasmonates.There is saying that “ No perfume without Jasmine” , very true if you consider that almost all fragrances do contain a touch of this exquisite odour. The odour of Jasmine is heady sensual deep and intoxicating. There are so many facets to a jasmine odour that it is impossible to describe in words. Three types of Jasmines that are used in Perfumery are Jasmine Grandiflorum , Jasmine Sambac and Jasmine Auriculatum. Grandiflorum and Sambac are the two most used. Whereas Grandiflorum has a deep sweet jam like odour sambac is green and calyx like. We offer reconstitutions of both and are very useful for blending.

Salvia sclarea, clary or clary sage is a biennial or short-lived herbaceous perennial in the genus Salvia. It is native to the northern Mediterranean, along with some areas in north Africa and Central Asia. The plant has a lengthy history as a medicinal herb and is currently grown for its essential oil. S. sclarea reaches 3 to 4 ft (0.91 to 1.22 m) in height, with thick square stems that are covered in hair. The leaves are approximately 1 ft (0.30 m) long at the base, 0.5 ft (0.15 m) long higher on the plant. The upper leaf surface is rugose and covered with glandular hair. The flowers are in verticils with 2-6 flowers in each verticil and are held in large colorful bracts. That range in color from pale mauve to lilac or white to pink with a pink mark on the edge. The lilac or pale blue corolla is approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) with the lips held wide open. Clary seeds have a mucilaginous coat,which is why some old herbals recommended placing a seed into the eye of someone with a foreign object in it so that it could adhere to the object and make it easy to remove. This practice is noted by Nicholas Culpeper in his Complete Herbal (1653) who referred to the plant as "clear-eye". The distilled essential oil is used widely in perfumes and as a muscatel flavoring for vermouths wines and liqueurs. It is also used in aromatherapy for relieving anxiety and fear, menstrual-related problems such as PMS and cramping and helping with insomnia. It is used as fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry. Especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavor. The young tops of Clary were used in soups and as pot herbs. It gives a new lift to omelets and was used to flavor jellies. The leaves were chopped into salads. Culpeper recommended a 17th century sage dish where the fresh leaves were first dipped in a batter of flour, eggs and a little milk fried in butter and served as a side dish. The flowers have an aromatic flavor and make a lovely contrast in salads. All sage flowers are edible after removing all greenery and stems. The main constituents of the oil are Linalyl Acetate , Linalool and Germacrene. Clary Sage Oil is one of the most important in a perfumers pallete. Excellent blending properties and forms good accords with Citrus and Herbal notes. And at the same time has very useful fixative properties.

Balsam Peru is a resinous substance that has been used in the perfume and incense industry for many centuries. It is extracted from the trunk of the Myroxylon balsamum tree, which is native to Central and South America. The sap of the tree is harvested by making incisions in the bark, allowing the resin to flow out naturally. This process does not harm the tree and is therefore considered a sustainable harvesting method. Balsam Peru has a warm, sweet, and balsamic odor, which is why it is commonly used in perfumery. It is a popular ingredient in oriental and woody fragrances, as well as in incense blends. Its versatility also makes it a valuable addition in the formulation of toiletries such as soaps and shampoos. The areas of extraction for Balsam Peru are primarily in the Central and South American regions, including countries such as El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras. The absolute extracted from the resinoid by alcohol extraction is known as Balsam Peru Absolute, which is a highly concentrated form of the resin. Resinoid Peru is another product derived from the resin, obtained through solvent extraction. It is known for its strong, tenacious odor and is often used in the composition of soaps, candles, and detergents. In conclusion, Balsam Peru, Balsam Peru Absolute, and Resinoid Peru are highly valued ingredients in the perfume and incense industry for their warm and balsamic aroma. The sustainable extraction methods used to obtain these products ensure they continue to be a valuable and ethical source of fragrant materials. Balsam Peru Absolute blends exceedingly well with cinnamic alcohol, heliotropine, ionones, isoeugenol, Iinalool, musks, petitgrain oil, patchouli, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, dimethyl phenylethyl carbinol, labdanum products, etc. in floral bases (honeysuckle, tuberose, Iongoza, etc.), Oriental bases, “powder” type perfumes and numerous types of sweet and heavy perfumes. There are number of chemicals available in Balsam Peru like : alpha-muurolene, benzyl-benzoate, beta-elemene,alpha-copaene, alpha-curcumene, benzyl-cinnamate, benzyl-isoferulate, benzaldehyde, benzoic, benzoic-acids, cadalene, benzyl-ferulate, Alpha-bourbonene, beta-bourbonene, alpha-cadinene, alpha-calacorene, alpha-pinene, caryophyllene, benzyl-alcohol, calamenene.

Benzoin is an aromatic tree resin that has been highly valued in the fragrance industry for centuries. It is extracted from the bark of trees in the Styrax genus that are found in various regions across Southeast Asia, with some of the most sought-after varieties originating from the Laos, Siam, and Sumatra regions. Benzoin from Laos, also known as Laos or Lao benzoin, is characterized by its rich, sweet, and slightly vanilla-like aroma. It is often used as a base note in perfumes, providing a warm and comforting scent that lingers on the skin. In traditional medicine, Laos benzoin has been used to treat a range of ailments, from respiratory problems to skin conditions. Siam benzoin, also known as Siamese or Thailand benzoin, has a more complex fragrance profile than its Laos counterpart. It is characterized by its balsamic, woody, and slightly spicy aroma, making it a popular choice in perfume compositions that require a more nuanced and sophisticated scent. Siam benzoin is also used in traditional medicine, where it is believed to have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Sumatra benzoin, also known as Sumatran or Padang benzoin, is prized for its smoky, resinous, and almost leathery scent. It is often used in masculine fragrances, as its earthy and slightly pungent aroma provides a more assertive and bold scent profile. Sumatra benzoin is also used in aromatherapy to promote relaxation and reduce stress. Benzoin is also called gum benzoin or gum benjamin. But "gum" is incorrect as benzoin is not a polysaccharide. Its name came via the Italian from the Arabic luban jawi. Benzoin resin is also called styrax balsam or styrax resin, but wrongly since those resins are obtained from a different plant family, Hamamelidaceae. Benzoin was first reported in 1832 by Justus von Liebig and Friedrich Woehler during their research on oil of bitter almond which is benzaldehyde with traces of hydrocyanic acid. Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in incense-making and perfumery because of its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties. Gum benzoin is a major component of the type of church incense used in Russia and some other Orthodox Christian societies as well as Western Catholic Churches. Most benzoin is used in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and India, where it is burned on charcoal as incense. It is also used in the production of Bakhoor (Arabic scented wood chips) as well as various mixed resin incense in the Arab countries and the Horn of Africa. Benzoin tree is from Java, Sumatra and Thailand and grows to 8 meters (20 feet). Deep incisions are made in the trunk of the tree from which the grayish colored sap exudes. When the resinous lump becomes hard and brittle, it is collected from the bark of Benzoin. It is also used as a fixative in the perfume industry. Perfumery use of Benzoin can hardly be described other than as this material virtually blends with almost every known material. In traces it also helps Rose accords and can be used in high percentages in Musks and Orientals There are following unique Benzoin products manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd.

Bergamot orange (Citrus bergamia) is a small, roughly pear-shaped citrus fruit, which grows on small trees known as bergamots. It is a cross between pear lemon and Seville orange or grapefruit. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the Ioanion, coastal region of the province of Reggio Calabria, South Italy. Where the soil and climatic conditions are very favourable for its cultivation.It is also cultivated in Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil. But in no other part of the world does it fructify with the same yield and quality of essence. Bergamot is named after Italian city of Bergamo, in which its oil was first sold. It has become a symbol of the entire region and city.This fruit is not edible and is cultivated for production of its essential oil.The essential oil of bergamot is expressed from the ripe fruit peel and is used extensively in perfumery for its sweet freshness. Bergamot oil is also used for flavouring purposes e.g. Earl Grey tea and the so called althea drops, candy-making. It is also used in aromatherapy to treat depression and also as a digestive aid. Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy note. Bergamot oil is used in production of both female and male perfumes and in most fragrance groups, mainly in top notes. It was a component of the original Eau de Cologne developed in Germany in the 17th century and today is used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes.Bergamot Oil is a green or olive green, mobile liquid of extremely rich, sweet-fruity initial odor. Although the characteristics of this topnote remain perceptible in good oils, it is followed by a still more characteristic oily-herbaceous and somewhat balsamic body and dryout. The sweetness yields to a more tobacco like and rich note, somewhat reminiscent of sage clary and neryl acetate. The freshness in the topnote is mainly due to terpenes and small amounts of citral and aliphatic aldehydes. Absence of the “oily” note is one of the most revealing features in poor or adulterated bergamot oils. The color of bergamot oil fades on ageing, particularly when the oil is exposed to daylight.One of the finest Top Note materials , the beauty of this oil is unimaginable. Can be used from 0.5% to 10%. An absolute beauty! It imparts freshness and diffusion to any fragrances or compound.

Carthamus (Sanskrit: kusumbha)also known as safflower is a highly branched, herbaceous, thistle-like annual plant. It is commercially cultivated for vegetable oil extraction from the seeds. Plants are 30 to 150 cm (12 to 59 in) tall with globular flower heads having yellow, orange, or red flowers. Each branch will usually have from one to five flower heads containing 15 to 20 seeds per head. Safflower is native to arid environments having seasonal rain. It grows a deep taproot which enables it to thrive in such environments. It is a minor crop today with about 600,000 tons being produced commercially in more than sixty countries worldwide.India, United States, and Mexico are the leading producers, with Ethiopia, Kazakhstan, China, the Arab World, Argentina and Australia accounting for most of the remainder. Other names include Sallflower, Beni, Chimichanga, or Carthamus tinctorius. Traditionally, the crop was grown for its seeds, and used for colouring and flavoring foods. In medicines, and making red (carthamin) and yellow dyes, especially before cheaper aniline dyes became available. For the last fifty years or so the plant has been cultivated mainly for the vegetable oil extracted from its seeds. Safflower seed oil is flavorless and colorless and nutritionally similar to sunflower oil. It is used mainly in cosmetics. Also used as a cooking oil and in salad dressing,and for the production of margarine. It may also be taken as a nutritional supplement. There are two types of safflower that produce different kinds of oils: one high in monounsaturated fatty acid (oleic acid) and the other high in polyunsaturated fatty acid (linoleic acid). Currently the predominant edible oil market is for the former, which is lower in saturates than olive oil.The latter it is used in painting in the place of linseed oil, particularly with white paints. As it does not have the yellow tint which linseed oil possesses. Safflower flowers are occasionally used in cooking as a cheaper substitute for saffron, and were sometimes referred to as "bastard saffron". Carthamus Absolute is made from the dried flowers of Carthamus Tinctorius. It has a deep floral herbal slightly anisic odour. Gives good body to heavy florals like Jasmine and Tuberose. Also good in Hina or Shamama blends and for Saffron Flavours.

Cinnamon is a spice obtained from the inner bark of several trees of Cinnamomum Zelanicum, that is used in both sweet and savoury foods. While Cinnamomum verum is sometimes considered to be "true cinnamon". Most of the cinnamon in international commerce is derived from related species, which are also referred to as "cassia" to distinguish them from "true cinnamon". Cinnamon is the name for perhaps a dozen species of trees and the commercial spice products that some of them produce. All are members of the genus Cinnamomum in the family Lauraceae. Only a few of them are grown commercially for spice. The name "cinnamon" comes through the Greek "kinnamomon", possibly from Phoenician. In Hindi it is called "dal chini". In Urdu it is called "dar chini". In Sri Lanka, in Sinhala, cinnamon is known as "kurundu" and was recorded in English in the 17th century as "korunda". It is called "karuva" in Malayalam and Tamil. Another Tamil variant is "Pattai". In Indonesia, where it is cultivated in Java and Sumatra is called "kayu manis" ("sweet wood"). In several European languages, the word for cinnamon comes from the Latin word "cannella", a diminutive of canna, "tube", from the way it curls up as it dries.The branches harvested this way are processed by scraping off the outer bark, then beating the branch evenly with a hammer to loosen the inner bark.The inner bark is then pried out in long rolls. Only 0.5 mm (0.020 in) of the inner bark is used. The outer woody portion is discarded leaving metre-long cinnamon strips that curl into rolls ("quills") on drying. Once dry the bark is cut into 5- to 10-cm (2- to 4-in) lengths for sale.The bark must be processed immediately after harvesting while still wet. Once processed the bark will dry completely in four to six hours provided it is in a well-ventilated and relatively warm environment. A less than ideal drying environment encourages the proliferation of pests in the bark, which may then require treatment by fumigation. Bark treated this way is not considered to be of the same premium quality as untreated bark.The flavour of cinnamon is due to an aromatic essential oil that makes up 0.5% to 1% of its composition. This essential oil is prepared by roughly pounding the bark macerating it in sea water and then quickly distilling the whole. It is of a golden-yellow colour with the characteristic odour of cinnamon and a very hot aromatic taste. The pungent taste and scent come from cinnamic aldehyde or cinnamaldehyde (about 90% of the essential oil from the bark) and by reaction with oxygen. As it ages it darkens in colour and forms resinous compounds. Other chemical components of the essential oil include ethyl cinnamate, eugenol (found mostly in the leaves), beta-caryophyllene, linalool, and methyl chavicol. Cinnamon has a much broader application in flavours than fragrances. However recently a trend of Cinnamon (Cassia Like) odours for Candles has emerged. But the most important thing about Cinnamon is that it reminds everybody of Christmas Cinnamon Flavoured Cookies.

Cistus (from the Greek "Kistos") is a genus of flowering plants in the rockrose family Cistaceae, containing about 20 species. They are perennial shrubs found on dry or rocky soils through out the Mediterranean region. From Morocco to Portugal through to the Middle East and also on the Canary Islands. Together with its many hybrids and cultivars is commonly encountered as a garden flower.The common name rockrose is applied to the species. The material is extracted from all of the plants parts, flowers leaves and twigs. The common name gum cistus is applied to resin bearing species especially C. ladanifer. The leaves are evergreen, opposite, simple, usually slightly rough-surfaced, 2–8 cm long. In few species (notably C. ladanifer) the leaves are coated with a highly aromatic resin called labdanum. They have 5-petaled flowers ranging from white to purple and dark pink. In a few species with a conspicuous dark red spot at the base of each petal. They are thermophilous plants, which require open sunny places. This plant genus is peculiar in that it has developed a range of specific adaptations to resist summer drought and frequent disturbance events such as fire and grazing.In addition it can form both ectomycorrhizas and arbuscular mycorrhizas. More than 200 ectomycorrhiza-forming fungal species belonging to 40 genera have been reported so far to be associated with Cistus. Cistus species are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Coleophora confluella and Coleophora helianthemella, the latter recorded on Cistus monspeliensis. Various Cistus species are known to emit volatile oils rendering the plants flammable. Some sources state that under dry, hot conditions these species may be capable of self-ignition. In popular medicine, infusions of cistuses are used to treat diarrhea. Its soft and fruity aroma is calming and releasing.Cistus essential oil is spiritual oil and has been used for centuries for meditation. It opens the third eye and oxygenates the brain. It helps quiet the nerves and may calm the insomniac. It also stimulates the five senses: touch, feel, hear, sight and taste. Cistus Products are extensively used in all kinds of Perfumery products , colour being a slight drawback. Cistus Super absolute by BMV is a light coloured product derived from the Concrete. It is a must for heavy masculine notes , leathery accords , orientals, herbals etc, has excellent fixation and is one of the best known fixatives. Burns exceptionally well and very stable in almost all fragrances.

Salvia sclarea, clary or clary sage is a biennial or short-lived herbaceous perennial in the genus Salvia. It is native to the northern Mediterranean, along with some areas in north Africa and Central Asia. The plant has a lengthy history as a medicinal herb and is currently grown for its essential oil.Clary Sage Oil is used in perfumery as an individual body or as a modifier for bergamot oil, lavender, etc. and for ambra notes with labdanum extracts, cistus oil, olibanum resinoid, cinnamic alcohol, musks or synthetic ambergris materials, etc.; in chypre bases, fougeres, Oriental and “tabac’’-type fragrances and in modern fantasy creations with aldehydic notes or even in woody bases. In the classical type of cologne perfumes it lends unique tenacity and acts as a very fragrant fixative, particularly in combination with labdanum products and musks. It blends beautifully with coriander, cardamom, citrus oi]s, lavandin and lavender, geranium oil, sandalwood oil, eugenol and derivatives, cedarwood derivatives, methylionones, phenylethyl alcohol, etc. In flavors, the coriander-like notes of clary sage oil are exploited in liqueurs, wine essences, grape flavors, etc. Furthermore, it is useful as a modifier in spice compounds,The distilled essential oil is used widely in perfumes and as a muscatel flavoring for vermouths wines and liqueurs. It is also used in aromatherapy for relieving anxiety and fear, menstrual-related problems such as PMS and cramping and helping with insomnia. It is used as fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry. Especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavor. The young tops of Clary were used in soups and as pot herbs. It gives a new lift to omelets and was used to flavor jellies. The leaves were chopped into salads. Culpeper recommended a 17th century sage dish where the fresh leaves were first dipped in a batter of flour, eggs and a little milk fried in butter and served as a side dish.The main constituents of the oil are Linalyl Acetate , Linalool and Germacrene. Clary Sage Oil is one of the most important in a perfumers pallete. Excellent blending properties and forms good accords with Citrus and Herbal notes. And at the same time has very useful fixative properties.

Clove Bud Absolute is produced from Clove Bud Concrete. The concrete is produced by hydrocarbon solvent extraction of the dried and comminuted flower-buds of Eugenia Caryophyllata Petroleum ether or gasoline is used in the extraction. Gasoline yields a superior concrete in respect to odor. The color and general appearance, too, varies according to the solvent used.They are native to the Maluku Islands in Indonesia and are commonly used as a spice. Cloves are commercially harvested primarily in Indonesia, India, Madagascar, Zanzibar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka.Clove Bud Absolute is usually an olive-green, greenish brown or orange brown, viscous or oily liquid which may solidify at reduced temperatures to a semi-solid mass. The absolute is soluble in alcohol in all proportions. The odor of the absolute is not only a very close approach to the odor of the botanical material. It presents a floral and refined type of this fragrance, also resembling the balsamic, sour-sweet and immensely rich fragrance of clove flowers in full bloom.Clove bud absolute is particularly useful in perfumes where the non-phenolic notes of cloves are wanted to impart a spicy, yet fresh-floral and intriguing note of great diffusive power. The absolute can be used with surprisingly good effects in many floral bases and it lends interesting twists to ylang-ylang, carnation, rose, cassie, narcissus and other floral perfume types.Dr Baldev Gulati one of the founders of BMV was deputed in Pemba Clove Distillery (Tanzania) by UN for developing clove oil.The odour of Clove Bud Absolute by BMV has a deep warm spicy floral odour and is a good low cost substitute for Carnation Absolute.

Geranium is a genus of 422 species of flowering annual, biennial, and perennial plants that are commonly known as the cranesbills. They are found throughout the temperate regions of the world and the mountains of the tropics, but mostly in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region. The long, palmately cleft leaves are broadly circular in form. The flowers have five petals and are coloured white, pink, purple or blue, often with distinctive veining. Geraniums will grow in any soil as long as it is not waterlogged. Propagation is by semiripe cuttings in summer, by seed, or by division in autumn or spring. Confusingly, "geranium" is also the common name of members of the genus Pelargonium (sometimes known as 'storksbill'), which are also in the Geraniaceae family. These are generally half-hardy plants which are either grown from seed every year, or offered as bedding in spring and discarded after flowering. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, but they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789. Other former members of the genus are now classified in genus Erodium, including the plants known as filarees in North America.The term "hardy geranium" is often applied to geraniums to distinguish them from the pelargoniums. However, not all geranium species are winter-hardy.The shape of the flowers offers one way of distinguishing between the two genera Geranium and Pelargonium. Geranium flowers have five very similar petals, and are thus radially symmetrical (actinomorphic), whereas pelargonium flowers have two upper petals which are different from the three lower petals, so the flowers have a single plane of symmetry (zygomorphic). Scientists from the Helmholtz Zentrum Munchen, Germany have found that South African geranium plant extracts represent a potential new class of anti-HIV-1 agents for the treatment of AIDS. Geranium oil can be used to help in the treatment of acne, bruises, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, hemorrhoids, lice, as a mosquito repellant, ringworm, ulcers, breast engorgement, edema, poor circulation, sore throat, tonsillitis, PMS, menopausal problems, stress and neuralgia.The essential oil prepared from the geranium herb has a pleasant, captivating and long-lasting aroma. Hence, it is widely used as a deodorant for regulating perspiration and purging body odor. One of the most Important Essential Oil in a perfumers lab , and nearly all perfumers will have two to three or maybe more types of Geranium in their lab. One of the best known floralizer and limitless in application and percentage use in a compound. However technically there is only one True Geranium and that is Zdravetz Oil and the other so called Chinese Geranium , Egyptian Geranium etc are from the Pelargonium Family.

Labdanum, also called ladanum or ladan, is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladaniferus (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient. In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs. Wooden instruments used were referred to in 19th-century Crete as "ergastiri; a lambadistrion" ("labdanum-gatherer") was a kind of rake to which a double row of leather thongs were fixed instead of teeth.These were used to sweep the shrubs and collect the resin which was later extracted. It was collected by the shepherds and sold to coastal traders. Many of the false beards worn by the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were made of goats' hair which was held together by labdanum. The resin was also used to treat colds, coughs, menstrual problems and rheumatism. Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. Absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation. The raw gum is a black (sometimes dark brown), fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is plastic but not pourable, and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance is more refined than the raw resin. The odour is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries because its precursor originates from the sperm whale, which is an endangered species. Labdanum is the main ingredient used when making the scent of amber in perfumery. Labdanum's odour is variously described as amber, animalic, sweet, woody, ambergris, dry musk, or leathery. Labdanum is a rich brown resin sourced from the cistus shrubs of the species rockrose. This sticky resin is used since the ancient times as a natural remedy and perfume ingredient. Most modern labdanum is sourced in Spain, on the borders of Spain and Portugal, but in Spain's territory. Labdanum's odor profile is highly complex. Often compared to amber, it is a balsam-like and slightly musty scent in its raw form, with woody, earthy, smoky, marshy and even honey and plum undertones. Prized for its rich, sweet and mossy aroma, it is commonly used in modern perfumery to render leather or ambergris notes. Labdanum is one of the most important product on a perfumers list, its odour is invaluable for certain formulations. Its use can hardly be restricted to any area except floral accords. A wonderful fixative. Resinoid Labdanum Or Labdanum Absolute introduces amazing depths and stability to Incense and soap formulations. For Fine Fragrances , where its colour is a hinderance , one can use Labdanum Super Absolute for all the properties of Labdanum minus the colour. In a nutshell one could experiment with this wonderful material forever.

Lavandula (common name lavender) is a genus of 39 species of flowering plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. It is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, southern Europe across to northern and eastern Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to southeast India. Many members of the genus are cultivated extensively in temperate climates as ornamental plants for garden and landscape use, for use as culinary herbs, and also commercially for the extraction of essential oils. The most widely cultivated species, Lavandula angustifolia is often referred to as lavender, and there is a colour named for the shade of the flowers of this species.The genus includes annual or short-lived herbaceous perennial plants, and suffrutescent perennials, subshrubs or small shrubs.Leaf shape is diverse across the genus. They are simple in some commonly cultivated species; in others they are pinnately toothed, or pinnate, sometimes multiple pinnate and dissected. In most species the leaves are covered in fine hairs or indumentum, which normally contain the essential oils. Flowers are borne in whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage, the spikes being branched in some species. Some species produce coloured bracts at the apices. The flowers may be blue, violet or lilac in the wild species, occasionally blackish purple or yellowish. The calyx is tubular. The corolla is also tubular, usually with five lobes (the upper lip often cleft, and the lower lip has two clefts). The English word lavender is generally thought to be derived from Old French lavandre, ultimately from the Latin lavare (to wash), referring to the use of infusions of the plants.The botanic name Lavandula as used by Linnaeus is considered to be derived from this and other European vernacular names for the plants. However it is suggested that this explanation may be apocryphal, and that the name may actually be derived from Latin livere, "blueish". Lavender Oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula Officinalis, a wild growing or cultivated plant, native to the Mediterranean countries. Distillation takes place mainly in the south of France where the plants grow at medium altitudes of this mountainous region (from 600to 1500 metres altitude). Distilleries located at high altitude produce oils of higher ester content, not only because of the theory that the high-altitude, wild-growing plants contain more esters, but also because of the fact that high-altitude distillation means lower temperature-boiling. Consequently, the distilledoil is not exposed to 100”C. hot steam, but perhaps only to 92 or 93”C.An absolute gem, among the top materials for blending. Lavender has been responsible for many successful fragrances worldwide and is still going strong. There is whole family of Perfumes namely Fougeres that are based on Lavender. Lavender Oil (French type) is a colorless or pale yellow liquid of sweet, floral-herbaceous refreshing odor with a pleasant, balsamic-woody undertone. An almost fruity-sweet top note is of a very short life, and the entire oil is not distinguished by its tenacity in odor. It is used extensively in colognes (citrus-colognes or the well-known lavender-waters), in fougeres, chypres, ambres and countless floral, semi-floral or particularly in non-floral perfume types. The oil blends well with bergamot and other citrus oils, clove oils etc.

Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) is actually a hybrid created from true lavender (lavendula augustifolia) and spike lavender (Lavendula latifolia). The true lavender grows higher in the mountains while the spike lavender or aspic as it is sometimes known grows down lower. Where they tended to meet they would cross pollinate and lavandin came into being. As it is a hybrid it’s appearance can vary some, but in general it is a larger plant than true lavender with woody stems. The flowers vary from blue like true lavender to more greyish, similar to spike lavender. Lavandin also has aromatherapy uses similar to true lavender but it is more penetrating. It has a stronger scent and is considered beneficial for inflammation, respiratory and circulatory conditions. It is also thought to be very helpful in fighting germs. Feel free to reach for lavandin to help with sore muscles and joint pain, aid in clearing sinuses and symptoms of colds and flu and flushing toxins from your system. It does have many of the same actions as true lavender. One benefit it does NOT share with lavender is the ability to help heal burns. Apparently due to its higher camphor content it can actually make the burns worse. The scent of lavandin is similar to lavender but more pungent with a slightly different note to it. Instead Lavandin is used in some soap blends to help intensify the lavander scent as well as to extend its staying power. Another thing about Lavandin is that it is less likely to have been adulterated as opposed to true lavender. To summarize: Lavandin is an important essential oil in its own right and is extremely useful for the soap maker when blending scents. It has many beneficial qualities and in many respects is similar to Lavender but should not be used interchangeably as the issue with treatment for burns points out. The Lavandin, plant from which this essential oil is obtained, is not a natural plant in the true sense, because it was born as a result of the hybridization of two plants with the scientific names Lavandula Angustifolia and Lavandula Latifolia. That is why Lavandin is scientifically known as Lavandula Hybrida and Lavandula Hortensis.The aroma and medicinal properties of Lavandin are quite similar to those of Lavender, but they are more intense and sharp, since it is a hybrid. The main components of this oil are Lavandulol, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Camphor, Cineole, Caryophyllene, Camphene, Dipentene, Limonene, Ocimene, and Terpinene. Lavandin oil boosts self esteem, confidence, hope, and mental strength, while efficiently fighting depression. As an antidepressant, it can be systematically administered to patients of acute depression who are undergoing rehabilitation.The essential oil of Lavandin has certain compounds which contribute to its antiseptic properties. By virtue of this property, Lavandin Oil can protect wounds from becoming septic. It is found to be effective in preventing incisions from becoming septic or getting infected from tetanus, particularly after surgery, caesarian deliveries and other wounds. It relieves the deposition of phlegm, cramps, stiffness and pain in muscles and helps cure sinusitis,dermatitis and colds. Being a different species it is no surprise that lavandin oil is different from L.angustifolia oil. Lavandin because of its strong similarity to lavender and much lower prices has become a very big product. In fact in certain compositions its odour profile is better suited than lavender. In soap and incense formulations it gives better effects, because of a higher percentage of Camphor & Borneol.Lavandin Oil blends well with countless natural and synthetic perfume materials. More recently the old-fashioned “Rondeletia’’-theme has found a renaissance in the combination of lavandin oil with clove oils, eugenol, bay leaf oil, cinnamon leaf oil, etc. Other blenders are aliphatic aldehydes (modifiers, topnotes), amyl salicylate, citronella oils, cypress oil, decyl alcohol, geranium oils, geranyl acetone, isobornyl acetate, pine needle oils, thyme or origanum oils, patchouli (also fixative), etc.

Lemon (Citrus limomum) is a small evergreen tree native to Asia. The tree's ellipsoidal yellow fruit is used for culinary and non-culinary purposes throughout the world, primarily for its juice, though the pulp and rind (zest) are also used in cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6% citric acid,which gives lemons a sour taste. Expressed Lemon Oil is a yellow to greenish yellow or pale yellow mobile liquid of very light, fresh and sweet odor, truly reminiscent of the ripe peel. No turpentine-like, harsh-terpene notes should be detectable on a perfume blotter. Good oils retain their fresh lemon odor practically unchanged on a blotter until there is no odor left at all. Expressed Lemon Oil is used in perfumes and flavors for its refreshing, sweet-fruity note. It is one of the more important ingredients in the old-fashioned citrus-type of colognes, in “Eau de Verveine” and other toilet waters, lotions, aerosol sprays, etc. It finds general application as a freshener and topnote ingredient in countless perfume types. Lemon Oil blends well with other citrus oils, with lavender oil, lavandin, elemi, labdanum, petitgrain, neroli, etc. and among the most common fixatives for lemon oil are coumarin, vanillin, cinnamates, elemi resinoid, oakmoss products, araucaria oil, etc.

Mace comes from nutmeg. The lacy aril is removed by hand from the outer shell of the nutmeg and then dried, becoming yellowish-brown mace. Mace is sold in whole pieces called blades or in the more commonly-found ground form. The color can often help you determine its origin. Orange-yellow blades most likely come from Grenada, while orange-red blades tend to be from Indonesia. Mace has a flavor described as a combination of cinnamon and pepper, a more pungent version of nutmeg. Nutmeg may be substituted for mace in a pinch and vice versa, but obviously the end result will be affected as with any substitution. Mace, spice consisting of the dried aril, or lacy covering, of the nutmeg fruit of Myristica fragrans, a tropical evergreen tree. Mace has a slightly warm taste and a fragrance similar to that of nutmeg. It is used to flavour bakery, meat, and fish dishes; to flavour sauces and vegetables; and in preserving and pickling. They are also used for treating cancer, kidney disease, and trouble sleeping (insomnia); increasing menstrual flow; causing a miscarriage; as a hallucinogen; and as a general tonic. mace are applied to the skin to kill pain, especially pain caused by achy joints (rheumatism), mouth sores, and toothache. Mace as a spice is much stronger than nutmeg , can be used very well to enhance nutmeg in compositions. The usage of Mace is much less than Nutmeg. Mace can form very interesting spicy notes in combination with pepper and citrus oils.In perfumery, mace extract finds some use along with other spicy and warm-aromatic materials for “men’s colognes”, after-shaves, fougeres, chypres, in modern fantasy lotion perfumes, etc. It blends well with geraniol, nerol, Iavandin absolute, oakmoss products, Iinalool, coriander oil, sage clary, petitgrain oil, mandarin oil, lime oil, rosemary oil etc.

The Mandarin orange, also known as the mandarin or mandarine , is a small citrus tree (Citrus reticulata) with fruit resembling other oranges. Mandarin oranges are usually eaten plain or in fruit salads. Specifically reddish-orange mandarin cultivars can be marketed as tangerines, but this is not a botanical classification. When exporting began, local Mandarin oranges were named after their port of origin.The tree is more drought-tolerant than the fruit. The mandarin is tender and is damaged easily by cold. It can be grown in tropical and subtropical areas. According to molecular studies, the mandarin, the citron, the pomelo, and the papeda were the ancestors of all other citrus species and their varieties, through breeding or natural hybridization; mandarins are therefore all the more important as the only sweet fruit among the parental species.The mandarin orange is a variety of the orange family. Cultivars and crosses between the original mandarin and other citrus fruits include:Satsuma (Citrus unshiu), a seedless variety, of which there are over 200 cultivars, such as Owari and mikan; the source of most canned mandarins, and popular as a fresh fruit due to its ease of consumptionOwari, a well-known Satsuma cultivar that ripens during the late fall seasonClementine, sometimes known as a "Christmas orange", as its peak season is winter; becoming the most important commercial Mandarin orange form, having displaced mikans in many marketsTangerineTangor, also called the temple orange, a cross between the Mandarin orange and the common sweet orange; its thick rind is easy to peel and its bright orange pulp is sour-sweet and full-flavored Mandarine has a very complex odour unlike any other citrus oil , it is vibrating fresh orangy and slightly fishy , which makes it very special and unique. Even though it is an expensive oil but you need only very small quantities to make your accords alive. Mandarine is specially very effective for Oriental Accords.

Myrrh from the Arabic 'mur', is the aromatic resin of a number of small, thorny tree species of the genus Commiphora. which is an essential oil termed an oleoresin. Myrrh resin is a natural gum. It has been used throughout history as a perfume, incense and medicine. It can also be ingested by mixing it with wine.When a tree wound penetrates through the bark and into the sapwood, the tree bleeds a resin. Myrrh gum, like frankincense, is such a resin. When people harvest myrrh, they wound the trees repeatedly to bleed them of the gum. Myrrh gum is waxy, and coagulates quickly. After the harvest, the gum becomes hard and glossy. The gum is yellowish, and may be either clear or opaque. It darkens deeply as it ages, and white streaks emerge.Myrrh gum is commonly harvested from the species Commiphora myrrha, which is native to Yemen, Somalia, Eritrea and eastern Ethiopia.Another commonly used name, Commiphora molmol, is now considered a synonym of Commiphora myrrha.The related Commiphora gileadensis, native to Eastern Mediterranean and particularly the Arabian Peninsula, is the biblically referenced Balm of Gilead,also known as Balsam of Mecca. Several other species yield bdellium and Indian myrrh. The oleo gum resins of a number of other Commiphora species are also used as perfumes, medicines (such as aromatic wound dressings), and incense ingredients. These myrrh-like resins are known as opopanax, balsam, bdellium, guggul and bisabol.Fragrant "myrrh beads" are made from the crushed seeds of Detarium microcarpum, an unrelated West African tree. These beads are traditionally worn by married women in Mali as multiple strands around the hips. The name "myrrh" is also applied to the potherb Myrrhis odorata, otherwise known as "cicely" or "sweet cicely".Myrrh is also found in the Christian Bible as one of the three gifts the wise men presented to baby Jesus.Myrrh is used more frequently in Ayurveda and Unani medicine, which ascribe tonic and rejuvenative properties to the resin. It (daindhava) is utilized in many specially processed rasayana formulas in Ayurveda. However, non-rasayana myrrh is contraindicated when kidney dysfunction or stomach pain is apparent.Myrrh was an ingredient of Ketoret, the consecrated incense used in the First and Second Temples at Jerusalem, as described in the Hebrew Bible and Talmud. An offering was made of the Ketoret on a special incense altar, and was an important component of the Temple service. Myrrh is also listed as an ingredient in the holy anointing oil used to anoint the Tabernacle, high priests and kings.Myrrh is an expensive spice, used for making perfume, incense, medicine, and for anointing the dead.Myrrh appears frequently in the Old Testament, primarily as a sensuous perfume in the Song of Solomon. The sap like substance, which has a unique sweet and smoky aroma, has a wide range of uses.Myrrh is mainly used:as a fragrancefor embalmingto flavor food productsfor its potential therapeutic properties.The essential oil has been part of medical practice in traditional therapies for millennia. Myrrh Absolute or Oil is a complete fragrance in itself , it blends wonderfully with heavy florals and makes unique accords with Patchouli and Sandalwood. Exceptional in burning , this was one of the material along with Olibanum that were first used in Churches as fragrances. The warm fruity mango like with a hint of spice odour of Myrrh is captivating . Oriental Blends will benefit with the addition of this material.

The nutmeg tree is any of several species of trees in genus Myristica. The most important commercial species is Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree indigenous to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas of Indonesia.The nutmeg tree is any of several species of trees in genus Myristica. The most important commercial species is Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree indigenous to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas (or Spice Islands) of Indonesia.Nutmeg is the seed of the tree, roughly egg-shaped and about 20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 in) long and 15 to 18 mm (0.6 to 0.7 in) wide, and weighing between 5 and 10 g (0.2 and 0.4 oz) dried, while mace is the dried "lacy" reddish covering or aril of the seed. The first harvest of nutmeg trees takes place 7–9 years after planting, and the trees reach full production after twenty years. Nutmeg is usually used in powdered form. This is the only tropical fruit that is the source of two different spices. Several other commercial products are also produced from the trees, including essential oils, extracted oleoresins, and nutmeg butter. The common or fragrant nutmeg, Myristica fragrans, native to the Banda Islands of Indonesia, is also grown in Penang Island in Malaysia and the Caribbean, especially in Grenada. It also grows in Kerala, a state in southern India. Other species of nutmeg include Papuan nutmeg M. argentea from New Guinea, and M. malabarica from India.Nutmeg is a dioecious plant which is propagated sexually and asexually, the latter being the standard. Sexual propagation by seedling yields 50% male seedlings, which are unproductive. As there is no reliable method of determining plant sex before flowering in the sixth to eighth year, and sexual propagation bears inconsistent yields, grafting is the preferred method of propagation. Nutmeg and mace have similar sensory qualities, with nutmeg having a slightly sweeter and mace a more delicate flavour. Mace is often preferred in light dishes for the bright orange, saffron-like hue it imparts. The essential oil obtained by steam distillation of ground nutmeg is used widely in the perfumery and pharmaceutical industries. The essential oil is also used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, for instance, in toothpaste, and as a major ingredient in some cough syrups. In traditional medicine, nutmeg and nutmeg oil were used for disorders related to the nervous and digestive systems.After extraction of the essential oil, the remaining seed, containing much less flavour, is called "spent". Spent is often mixed in industrial mills with pure nutmeg to facilitate the milling process, as nutmeg is not easy to mill due to the high percentage of oil in the pure seed. Nutmeg Oil is so widely used in perfumery that it has become one of the most important ingredients in the perfumers lab. The main distinctive ingredient of Nutmeg Oil is Myristicin, the content of which varies from 7 to 12%. BMV offers Nutmeg Absolute that has a totally different profile that the oil , its warm spicy waxy and somewhat floral odour is truly remarkable. It works beautifully with florals even. BMV was perhaps the first manufacturer to start producing this material alongwith Cardamom Absolute.The potential of this material is still to be fully exploited.

Evernia prunastri, also known as Oakmoss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and much of Central Europe. Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine. The thalli of Oakmoss are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, and grow together on bark to form large clumps. Oakmoss thallus is flat and strap-like. They are also highly branched, resembling the form of deer antlers. The colour of Oakmoss ranges from green to a greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture of the thalli are rough when dry and rubbery when wet. It is used extensively in modern perfumery. Oakmoss is commercially harvested in countries of South-Central Europe and usually exported to the Grasse region of France where its fragrant compounds are extracted as Oakmoss absolutes and extracts. These raw materials are often used as perfume fixatives and form the base notes of many fragrances. They are also key components of Fougère and Chypre class perfumes. The lichen has a distinct and complex odor and can be described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet. Oakmoss growing on pines have a pronounced turpentine odor that is valued in certain perfume compositions. Oakmoss should be avoided by people with known skin sensitization issues.n inky, bitter-smelling forest floor evocative, prized essence coming from the lichen that grows on oak trees in Europe (harvested in the Balkans). Nowadays severely restricted under skin sensitization concerns, it is nevertheless an essential part of chypre fragrances and fougère fragrances.Oakmoss is one of the most commonly used raw materials, especially in chypre and Fougère types of perfumes. Often used as a fixative, it not only improves the longevity of the composition but also lends a delicate forest-like, rich and earthy aroma to the fragrant composition, leaving a natural, damp and creamy soft trail. This raw material is usually commercially grown in South-Central Europe and exported to Grasse in France, where the majority of the perfumery houses are situated. Oakmoss absolutes and extracts, derived from the lichen, have a distinctively woody, sharp and very sensual aroma that combines very well with floral and green notes, and makes a great addition to oriental type fragrances. A special type of oakmoss which grows on pine trees has a slightly different, turpentine-like smell, which makes it highly valued among perfumers. Oakmoss absolute can be obtained by solvent extraction or by using vacuum distillation. The one obtained by solvent extraction is dark green or even brown in color and has a strong, natural, earthy-mossy scent with a slight leather undertone. One of the most beautiful material but sadly now after the ban , has been removed from most major fragrances. NO synthetic of any kind can give the complete picture of Oakmoss. A forest note that was one of the ingredients alongwith Lavander and Geranium to make a new family of fragrances , namely Fougeres. The most popular and largest family for men's fragrances. Alongwith musks and Patchouli forms longlasting bases. In fact one of the most tenacious naturals known , the smell on the blotter can last upto a year !!! Expecially useful in accords where a lot of chemicals are present , as it can take away the rough edges of chemicals and can make the accord smell natural. Invaluable in Amber Bases.

Frankincense Serrata Olibanum also known as Frankincense, is an aromatic resin obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia, particularly Boswellia sacra, B. carteri, B. thurifera, B. frereana and B. bhaw-dajiana (Burseraceae). The English word is derived from Old French "franc encens" (i.e., high quality incense) and is used in incense and perfumes.There are four main species of Boswellia that produce true frankincense serrata and resin from each of the four is available in various grades. The grades depend on the time of harvesting. The resin is hand-sorted for quality. Frankincense serrata is mentioned in the Bible as one of the three gifts the wise men gave to the young child Jesus. Frankincense serrata is tapped from the scraggly but hardy trees by slashing the bark, which is called striping, and allowing the exuded resin to bleed out and harden. Essential Oil of Frankincense Serrata These hardened resins are called tears. There are several species and varieties of frankincense trees, each producing a slightly different type of resin. Differences in soil and climate create even more diversity of the resin, even within the same species. Boswellia Sacra trees are considered unusual for their ability to grow in environments so unforgiving that they sometimes grow out of solid rock. This growth prevents it from being ripped from the rock during violent storms that frequent this region.This feature is slight or absent in trees grown in rocky soil or gravel. The trees start producing resin when they are about eight to 10 years old.Olibanum is characterized by a balsamic-spicy, slightly lemon, fragrance of incense, with a conifer-like undertone. It is used in the perfume, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.The essential oil of frankincense serrata is produced by steam distillation of the tree resin. Indian Frankincense Oil The oil's chemical components are 75% monoterpenes ( mainly Alpha Thujene), sesquiterpenes, monoterpenoles, sesquiterpenols, and ketones. It has a good balsamic sweet fragrance, while the Indian frankincense oil has a very fresh smell. Steam or hydro distilled India frankincense oil does contain a number of boswellic acids (triterpenoids) which represents a method of validating the authenticity of the essential oil. Boswellia Serrata BMV is the only manufacturer making Pure & Natural Distilled Olibanum Oil and Olibanum Absolute (Ex boswellia serrata). It was BMV that introduced this oil, Boswellia serrata to the world way back in 1995 and now has become the largest processor of Indian Olibanum Gum, Boswellia serrata for Perfumery Purposes.The oil is highly terpenic , it is used in traces for a top note effect and helps Rose Accords to obtain a natural top note. But the largest use is for Burning as this is one of the best for this application.

Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron crocus. Crocus is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Saffron crocus grows to 20–30 cm (8–12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas, which are the distal end of a carpel. Together with the styles, or stalks that connect the stigmas to their host plant, the dried stigmas are used mainly in various cuisines as a seasoning and colouring agent. Saffron, long among the world's most costly spices by weight is native to Greece or Southwest Asia and was first cultivated in Greece. As a genetically monomorphic clone, it was slowly propagated throughout much of Eurasia and was later brought to parts of North Africa, North America, and Oceania. The sativus crocus, unknown in the wild, probably descends from Crocus cartwrightianus, which originated in Crete C. thomasii and C. pallasii are other possible precursors. The saffron crocus is a triploid that is "self-incompatible" and male sterile. It undergoes aberrant meiosis and is hence incapable of independent sexual reproduction—all propagation is by vegetative multiplication via manual "divide-and-set" of a starter clone or by interspecific hybridisation. If C. sativus is a mutant form of C. cartwrightianus, then it may have emerged via plant breeding,which would have selected for elongated stigmas, in late Bronze Age Crete. Saffron's taste and iodoform- or hay-like fragrance result from the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal. It also contains a carotenoid dye, crocin, which imparts a rich golden-yellow hue to dishes and textiles. Its recorded history is attested in a 7th-century BC Assyrian botanical treatise compiled under Ashurbanipal, and it has been traded and used for over four millennia. Iran now accounts for approximately 90% of the world production of saffron. A degree of uncertainty surrounds the origin of the English word, "saffron" although it can be traced to have stemmed immediately from 12th-century Old French term safran, which comes from the Latin word safranum. Safranum comes from the Persian intercessor. Old Persian is the first language in which the use of saffron in cooking is recorded, with references dating back thousands of years. In fact some sources argue that it originated from Middle East/Persia and became associated with Greek, Spanish, and Indian cuisines.Saffron's aroma is often described by connoisseurs as reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes, while its taste has also been noted as hay-like and sweet. Saffron also contributes a luminous yellow-orange colouring to foods. Saffron is widely used in Indian, Persian, European, Arab, and Turkish cuisines. Confectioneries and liquors also often include saffron. Common saffron substitutes include safflower (Carthamus tinctorius, which is often sold as "Portuguese saffron" or "ACAFRAO"), annatto, and turmeric (Curcuma longa). Saffron has also been used as a fabric dye, particularly in China and India, and in perfumery. It is used for religious purposes in India, and is widely used in cooking in many cuisines, ranging from the Milanese risotto of Italy to the bouillabaisse of France to the biryani with various meat accompaniments in South Asia.

Styrax, occasionally called Storax, is a natural balsam (see Part One of this work: Balsam), formed as a pathological product in the sapwood and bark tissues of Liquidambar Orientalis, a medium-sized tree native to Asia Minor and the surrounding islands. The name Liquidambar is derived from the French “liquid ambre”. The tree is wildgrowing, and does not have to be felled in order to yield styrax. The bark is removed spotwise, and the sapwood is deliberately injured. Styrax is formed and collected in cans below the wounds or scraped off the wound. The peeled bark can be boiled in water to yield an additional amount of styrax. Extraction with alcohol (ethyl alcohol or rarely, methyl alcohol). Several extractions are necessary if the water content is high. The alcoholic extracts are subsequently dried with anhydrous sodium sulfate or the like prior to evaporation of the extract in mild vacuum. This leads to a so-called “resin-absolute” of styrax. Absolute of Styrax is alcohol-soluble, comparatively pale in color, and truly representative of the natural raw material in odor. It blends excellently with coumarin and its derivatives, with cyclamal, linalool, terpineol, anisaldehyde, ylang-ylang, jasmin bases, ionones and methylionones, etc., etc. The spicy note is derived from cinnamic alcohol and its esters, and from traces of cinnamal formed by oxidation of the cinnamic alcohol.

From Evernia Furfuracae, treemoss concrete is extracted by hydrocarbon solvent extraction. By alcohol washing of Treemoss Concrete, an absolute is obtained which is more or less viscous and dark colored according to the solvent that was used in the first extraction of the moss. Benzene concrete gives an almost solid absolute, greenish-brown in color, while petroleum ether concrete yields a semi-solid mass or viscous liquid of dark brown color. The odor is woody, dry, forest-like or seaweed-like, herbaceous-green and of great tenacity. The yield of absolute from concrete is good, much higher than in the case of oakmoss. Accordingly, treemoss absolute is much cheaper than oakmoss absolute. However, there is a significant difference in odor characteristics, particularly in the absence of the powerful, yet delicate topnote which is found in true oakmoss. The trade offers countless types of treemoss absolutes and similar extracts, tinctures, concentrates, ultrasonic extracts, integral extracts, fractions, etc. Thus, it would be impossible to give more than a very general description of the odor and appearance of treemoss absolute. Treemoss Absolute is used extensively in perfumery. In fact, this material has become one of the most important natural fixatives and odorants next to the essential oils. It is now produced on a very large scale in France, mainly from imported mosses. Germany, Hungary and other countries produce smaller amounts of trmmoss extracts. The admixture of treemoss to oakmoss occurs already at the point of harvesting, and it cannot always be considered an adulteration. Moss from the cork-oak (le chene-liege) is collected in the Atkssrnountain sin Morocco. It is not identical to the oakmoss from the “royal oak” (le chhe royal) in France. On the other hand, treemoss collected from firs, cedars and spruces is rarely mixed with true oakmoss. The treemoss products present the earthy-woody, dry forestnotcs and part of the leather-like notes of true oakmoss. But treemoss has little or no topnote, delicate freshness or elegance. By the addition of various amounts of oakmoss to treemoss, all grades of intermediate products and qualities are obtained. An essential oil (Treemoss Oil) is obtained by molecular distillation of treemoss concrete.

Cananga odorata, commonly called ylang-ylang ee-lang-ee-lang), cananga tree, ilang-ilang, kenanga in Indonesian, fragrant cananga, Macassar-oil plant or perfume tree, is a tropical tree which originates from the Philippines and is valued for its perfume. The essential oil derived from the flowers is used in aromatherapy. Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang-ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexapetalus, climbing ylang-ylang,[5] are woody, evergreen climbing plants in the same family. A. odoratissimus is also a source of perfume.C. odorata is a fast-growing tree of the custard-apple family Annonaceae. Its growth exceeds 5 m (15 ft) per year[citation needed] and attains an average height of 12 m (40 ft) in an ideal climate. It grows in full or partial sun, and prefers the acidic soils of its native rain forest habitat. The evergreen leaves are smooth and glossy, oval, pointed and with wavy margins, and 13–20 cm (5–8 in) long. The flower is drooping, long-stalked, with six narrow, greenish-yellow (rarely pink) petals, rather like a sea star in appearance, and yields a highly fragrant essential oil. The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich and deep with notes of rubber and custard, and bright with hints of jasmine and neroli. The essential oil of the flower is obtained through steam distillation of the flowers and separated into different grades (extra, 1, 2, or 3) according to when the distillates are obtained. The main aromatic components of ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, responsible for its characteristic odor.The essential oil is used in aromatherapy. It is believed to relieve high blood pressure, normalize sebum secretion for skin problems, and is considered to be an aphrodisiac. According to Margaret Mead, it was used as such by South Pacific natives such as the Samoan Islanders where she did much of her research. The oil from ylang-ylang is widely used in perfumery for oriental or floral themed perfumes (such as Chanel No. 5). Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit and wood scents.In Indonesia, ylang-ylang flowers are spread on the bed of newlywed couples.In the Philippines, its flowers, together with the flowers of the sampaguita, are strung into a necklace (lei) and worn by women and used to adorn religious images. Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes up 29% of the Comoros' annual export (1998).Ylang-ylang is a common flavoring in Madagascar for ice cream.Ylang-Ylang Oil is usually a yellowish,somewhat oily liquid, with a powerful and intensely sweet, but also soft-balsamic floral odor and an unusual tenacity in its floral-woody undertones. The oil is useful in general perfumery as a floral additive of extremely versatile application. It blends with almost any other floral natural or synthetic material, and gives good effects in a concentration of 0.5%. up to about 5% of the perfume base.There is hardly any floral type, where ylang-ylang “extra” would not fit in. The oil blends excellently with bois de rose, vetiver, amyl salicylate, opopanax, bergamot, hydroxycitronellal, mimosa, cassie, methylionones, cinnamic alcohol and esters, benzoates, paracresyl esters (ethers), nerolidol, Peru balsam oil, PTBCHA HC, etc. and with gardenia bases, tuberose bases, etc.

Gurjun essential oil is extracted from the woods and the oleo-resin (well-known globally as East Indian copaiba balsam), of the Gurjun tree by steam distillation method. Ashwakarna is the Sanskrit name of the Common Gurjun tree and the trusted Ayurvedic remedy for relieving respiratory problems like asthma, bronchitis and chronic cough, for its ability to eliminate excess mucous deposits in the system. Known as Dipterocarpus turbinatus botanically, Gurjun is indigenous to the Andaman Islands and the eastern parts of India. Gurjun is also called as Gurjun Balsam and referred as Chhaagakarna and Ajakarna in Ayurveda and used in the treatment of rheumatic conditions, urinary tract infections, skin problems like eczema and psoriasis and chronic respiratory problems. Celebrated often as a key commercial timber species, the woods of this tree is considered vital in making of plywood. These notable reddish brown woods have been used in various countries including China, Cambodia, India and Yunnan. The resin extracted from the woods is used in making torches in Cambodia and the wood is employed in tea cabinet work, wood work and for sawing. Gurjun tree is cultivated in India and China as a perfume as well as therapeutic plant. It is also used as a substitute for crude paint material. The leaves, wood and the resin of this tree have been in use in various Complementary and Alternative Medical systems for treating psoriasis, gonorrhea, bronchitis, leprosy, asthma and certain other skin disorders. The essential oil extracted from the oleo-resin of the Gurjun trees contains beta-caryophyllene, bicyclic sesquiterpene hydrocarbon, humulene and sesquiterpene alcohol. The remedial properties of this oil are diuretic, antifungal, antimicrobial, spasmolytic, anti-ulcer, stimulant, anti-rheumatic and decongestant. The oil is a pale yellow to pale amber colored, viscous liquid of a mild-woody, somewhat balsamic-sweet odor and great tenacity. The oil would find application as a fixative, modifier and odor depressant material in woody or Oriental fragrances, e.g. in soap compounds where its great tenacity and mild, uniform odor is an advantage.It has very little “odor value”, but it blends perfectly with a multitude of common perfume materials. On account of its extraordinarily high laevo rotatory power, gurjun balsam oil has served as a “correcting agent” in artificial essential oils which had to meet certain physical specifications or Pharmacopoeia demands. It is not infrequently found as a diluent in ylang-ylang oil, patchouli oil, sandalwood oil, vetiver oil, cubeb oil, etc. Gurjun (Balsam) Oil is not a common commercial article any more, but it is still available since the parent “balsam” is regularly produced.Gurjun Balsam finds use in perfumery, it serves similar purposes as does copaiba balsam: it is a low-cost, comparatively mild-smelling natural fixative for woody, balsamic or pine-type fragrances, It is an odor-depressant and “stretcher” of general application. The natural oleoresin “gurjun balsam” contains from 60 to 80 percent of a viscous essential oil which is also used occasionally in perfumery

Rosmarinus officinalis, commonly known as rosemary, is a woody, perennial herb with fragrant, evergreen, needle-like leaves and white, pink, purple, or blue flowers, native to the Mediterranean region. It is a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, which includes many other herbs. The name "rosemary" derives from the Latin for "dew" (ros) and "sea" (marinus), or "dew of the sea". The plant is also sometimes called anthos, from the ancient Greek word ?????, meaning "flower".Rosmarinus officinalis is one of 2-4 species in the genus Rosmarinus'. The other species most often recognized is the closely related, Rosmarinus eriocalyx, of the Maghreb of Africa and Iberia. The genus was named by the 18th-century naturalist and founding taxonomist Carolus Linnaeus.Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen shrub that has leaves similar to hemlock needles. The leaves are used as a flavoring in foods such as stuffings and roast lamb, pork, chicken and turkey. It is native to the Mediterranean and Asia, but is reasonably hardy in cool climates. It can withstand droughts, surviving a severe lack of water for lengthy periods. Forms range from upright to trailing; the upright forms can reach 1.5 m (5 ft) tall, rarely 2 m (6 ft 7 in). The leaves are evergreen, 2–4 cm (0.8–1.6 in) long and 2–5 mm broad, green above, and white below, with dense, short, woolly hair. The plant flowers in spring and summer in temperate climates, but the plants can be in constant bloom in warm climates; flowers are white, pink, purple or deep blue.Rosemary is used as a decorative plant in gardens and has many culinary and medical uses. The plant is said to improve the memory. The leaves are used to flavor various foods, such as stuffings and roast meats. Since it is attractive and drought tolerant, rosemary is used as an ornamental plant in gardens and for xeriscape landscaping, especially in regions of Mediterranean climate. It is considered easy to grow and pest-resistant. Rosemary can grow quite large and retain attractiveness for many years, can be pruned into formal shapes and low hedges, and has been used for topiary. It is easily grown in pots. The groundcover cultivars spread widely, with a dense and durable texture.Rosemary grows on friable loam soil with good drainage in an open, sunny position. It will not withstand waterlogging and some varieties are susceptible to frost. It grows best in neutral to alkaline conditions (pH 7–7.8) with average fertility. It can be propagated from an existing plant by clipping a shoot (from a soft new growth) 10–15 cm (4–6 in) long, stripping a few leaves from the bottom, and planting it directly into soil.The leaves, both fresh and dried, are used in traditional Italian cuisine. They have a bitter, astringent taste and are highly aromatic, which complements a wide variety of foods. Herbal tea can be made from the leaves. When burnt, they give off a mustard-like smell and a smell similar to burning wood, which can be used to flavor foods while barbecuing. Rosemary oil is used for purposes of fragrant bodily perfumes or to emit an aroma into a room. It is also burnt as incense, and used in shampoos and cleaning products.

Leptospermum scoparium, commonly called manuka, New Zealand teatree,broom teatree or just tea tree, is a species of flowering plant in the myrtle family Myrtaceae, native to New Zealand and southeast Australia.It is a prolific scrub-type tree and is often one of the first species to regenerate on cleared land. It is typically a shrub growing to 2–5 m (7–16 ft) tall, but can grow into a moderately sized tree, up to 15 m (49 ft) or so in height. It is evergreen, with dense branching and small leaves 7–20 mm long and 2–6 mm broad, with a short spine tip. The flowers are white, occasionally pink, 8–15 mm (rarely up to 25 mm) in diameter, with five petals.This species is often confused with the closely related species kanuka – the easiest way to tell the difference between the two species in the field is to feel their foliage – manuka leaves are prickly, while kanuka leaves are soft. The wood is tough and hard.Evidence suggests that L. scoparium originated in Australia before the onset of the Miocene aridity, and dispersed relatively recently from eastern Australia to New Zealand.It is likely that on arrival in New Zealand, L. scoparium became established in limited edaphically suitable areas until the arrival of Polynesian man, whose fire and forest-clearing brought about the low-nutrient-status soils for which it was preadapted in its homeland. It is now found throughout New Zealand, but is particularly common on the drier east coasts of the North and South Islands, and in Australia in Tasmania, Victoria and New South Wales.Many more cultivars are available in New Zealand but often the plant performs better in cultivation overseas. This is because in its homeland it is subject to attack by scale insects that secrete a honeydew on which grows a sooty mold that eventually debilitates the plant. Because of this, attempts have been made, with limited commercial success, to cross the showy New Zealand cultivars with mold-resistant Australian Leptospermum species.Scientific studies have shown that tea tree oil made from M. alternifolia may have some promise for mild cases of acne and athlete's foot, however there are many health claims made for it that are not backed by medical evidence.The oils of Melaleuca can be found in organic solutions of medication that claim to eliminate warts, including the Human papillomavirus. No scientific evidence proves these claims.Melaleuca oils are the active ingredient in Burn-Aid, a popular minor burn first aid treatment (an offshoot of the brandname Band-Aid). M. leucadendra oil, cajeput tree, is also used in many pet fish remedies such as Melafix and Bettafix to treat bacterial and fungal infections. Bettafix is a lighter dilution of cajeput tree oil, while Melafix is a stronger dilution.It is most commonly used to promote fin and tissue regrowth. The remedies are often associated with Betta fish (Siamese Fighting Fish) but are also used with other fish.The wood was often used for tool handles. Manuka sawdust imparts a delicious flavour when used for smoking meats and fish. It is cultivated in New Zealand for manuka honey, produced when honeybees gather the nectar from its flowers, and for the pharmaceutical industry. It is also used for carving.

This product is one of the most important of the nonfruity flavor materials from nature. One of the more practical reasons as to why licorice finds no use in perfumery is the physical reason that all licorice preparations are water-soluble; they are not alcohol- or oil-soluble.Licorice or, more correctly, Licorice Extract is produced from the rhizomes and roots of Glycyrrhiza Glabra, a leguminous plant. There are two main varieties of this plant: the Typica which is known commercially as “Spanish licorice”, and the Glandfllfera which is generally called “Russian licorice”. The former comes from Spain and Italy, the latter from Turkey, U.S. S. R. and the countries around Asia Minor towards India Licorice Extract is black and brittle, and has a sweet, mild odor somewhat different from that of the botanical starting material (the aqueous extract is often evaporated over an open fire and some caramellization of the extract may occur). Licorice extract has a very sweet taste, and a rich, “rootlike”, slight iy spicy -caramellic body of flavor. It leaves a faintly scratching feeling in the back of the mouth, and it is used in medicine for its mildly expectorant effect. The sweetness of Licorice is due to an acid, Glycyrrbizin, which is about 50 times as sweet as saccharose (household sugar). Glycyrrhizin is present in the root combined to ammonia. Unfortunately, the commercially available qualities of glycyrrhizin will color any aqueous solution in which they are used, strongly brown. Outside of medicine, licorice extract finds its major application in the candy industry, as a masking agent for bitter flavors and, to a minor extent, in the breweries where certain kinds of beer (porter, bass, etc.) are colored and at the same time flavored with licorice extract . The bitter herb extracts in the beer are masked by the licorice sweetness and flavor. Another effect enjoyed by the breweries is that Licorice Extract produces a very stable foam in carbonated beverages. (For this effect, licorice extract is also used in fire extinguishers). The tobacco industry uses tremendous amounts of licorice, particularly for pipe and chewing tobacco. It is worthwhile remembering that licorice extracts can not be used for flavoring in acid media. The Glycyrrhizin is inactivated as a sweetener by acids. This is a serious drawback since the masking of a bitter flavor is usually obtained by introducing a sour (acid) taste.