Reconstitution of Oils
Ambergris, a solid waxy substance originating in the intestine of the sperm whale (Physeter catodon). In Eastern cultures ambergris is used for medicines and potions and as a spice; in the West it was used to stabilize the scent of fine perfumes. Ambergris floats and washes ashore most frequently on the coasts of China, Japan, Africa, and the Americas and on tropical islands such as the Bahamas. Because it was picked up as drift along the shores of the North Sea, ambergris was likened to the amber of the same region, and its name is derived from the French words for “gray amber.” Fresh ambergris is black and soft and has a disagreeable odour. When exposed to sun, air, and seawater, however, it hardens and fades to a light gray or yellow, developing a subtle and pleasant fragrance in the process. Chemically, ambergris contains alkaloids, acids, and a specific compound called ambreine, which is similar to cholesterol. Ambergris was commonly ground into a powder and dissolved in dilute alcohol. Rarely used today due to trade restrictions, its unique musky character added a long-lasting bouquet to the scent of essential flower oils, but, more important, ambergris was a fixative that prevented fragrance from evaporating. Some chemical components of ambergris are now produced synthetically. Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 g (~½ oz) to 50 kg (110 pounds) or more. When initially expelled by or removed from the whale, the fatty precursor of ambergris is pale white in color (sometimes streaked with black), soft, with a strong fecal smell. Following months to years of photo degradation and oxidation in the ocean, this precursor gradually hardens, developing a dark grey or black color, a crusty and waxy texture, and a peculiar odor that is at once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic. Its smell has been generally described as a vastly richer and smoother version of isopropanol without its stinging harshness. In this developed condition, ambergris has aspecific gravity ranging from 0.780 to 0.926. It melts at about 62 °C to a fatty, yellow resinous liquid; and at 100 °C (212 °F) it is volatilized into a white vapor. It is soluble in ether, and in volatile and fixed oils. It has been developed after extensive research and analysis of the natural product which is no longer available. Ambergris is relatively nonreactive to acid. White crystals of a substance called ambrein can be separated from ambergris by heating raw ambergris in alcohol, then allowing the resulting solution to cool. Breakdown of the relatively scentless ambrein through oxidation results in the formation of ambrox and ambrinol, which are the main odour components of ambergris. The product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Is known as Ambergris Maui. It is a very close reproduction of the Natural Ambergris and has been developed to offer perfumers a ready to use material with NO restrictions. A 10% dilution in DPG can be used at 0.1% level in all kinds of Fancy Accords for exceptional diffusion. For Oriental Accords especially for the middle east upto 1% can be used to boost the Agarwood effect.
The botanical name of Ambrette is Hibiscus abelmoschus L. It is a tropical hibiscus with beautiful bright yellow flowers, and its distinctive seed pods look so similar to okra that the plant is sometimes referred to as “musk okra” or “ornamental okra.” Ambrette is native to India, where it is known as Mushkdana or Kasturi Bhendi. The plant grows to just over a meter in height and is an evergreen shrub. When mature the pods split open to reveal kidney-shaped seeds that have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance. Ambrette has long been appreciated in perfumery as one of the few plant oils that contains natural musk compounds, including one named after the plant, ambrettolide. Many synthetic musks are cooked up in laboratories these days, but for people who care about natural products, there is no substitute for the natural. Ambrette oil is expensive and rare because so much work goes into creating it. Unlike some oil crops where the plant leaves are used, Ambrette oil is made only from seeds, which weigh very little and must be carefully gathered. The seeds represent a tiny fraction of the biomass of the entire plant, and only a very small yield of essential oil is achieved -- 0.2% to 0.6% of the total weight of the seeds. In natural perfumery, it can be used in a wide range of compositions including musk bases, amber accords, high class florals, oriental bouquets, incense perfumes, fougere, and new mown hay. Ambrette oil is pale yellow, with an enchanting aroma described variously as sweet, rich, warm musky, fatty and nutty, with floral overtones. After a short period of aging, more complex notes can emerge, such as wine, brandy, fruit, and tobacco. Like all musks, Ambrette is a perfumery base note. It is a powerful, tenacious scent. The main application of Ambrette seed oil is in Perfumes, Tobacco flavoring, Liqueurs and some Fruit flavours. It imparts an exalting effect to fragrance and lends a unique bouquet. However, fragrances need to be matured for about 2-3 weeks for Ambrette seed to show it's beauty. Ambrette seed super is the special product manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. Ambrette seed super is meant to be a replacement for the natural product and is available at a fraction of the cost. It has a very persistent Floral - Musky odour and can be used in almost all types of fragrances. At 0.1% level it has the ability to enhance odour perception for all accords. Perfumes especially that are worn on the skin, Ambrette seed super will impart volume and sensuality.
Earlier known as West Indian Sandalwood Oil, Amyris oil is obtained from the wood of the tree Amyris Balsamifera. The oil is removed through partial pressure steam distillation with no additives, solvents or chemicals used at any part of the process. Amyris Balsamifera grows in the northern parts of South America and in Central America and West Indies. The distillation of this oil mainly takes place in Haiti. Locally, amyris oil is also known as "Candle Wood" or "Bois Chandele" and famously known as West Indian Rosewood. Amyris Oil is a viscous liquid. Pale yellow to brownish yellow in colour. The oil has a slightly balsamic note and a peppery top note. Mainly the odor is faintly woody but not dry. The odor and the colour of the oil varies according to the age of the oil and the age of the wood for the distillation of the oil. In Perfumery, this oil finds extensive applications as a mild blender in numerous perfumes. It blends well with Ionones, methyl ionones, lavandin, oakmoss products, terpineol, citronella oils, amyl salicylate etc. Amyris works well in soap perfumes. Other than perfumery Amyris wood is considered excellent for furniture. Recently the region Haiti was hit by hurricane Mathew in which the region lost its crops and infrastructure. Therefore the distillation of the oil had a serious setback and the prices of the oil increased sharply. BMV Fragrances Pvt. Ltd. provides the substitutes for these oils with our reconstitutions.
The artemisia plants seem to have originated in Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Most of these species are found growing wild and abundantly all over the temperate and cold-temperate zones of the world. A very common weed in Central Europe, Southeastern Europe, India, China and Japan is the Artemisia Vulgaris. An essential oil is steam distilled from the dried herb in the South of France, in Morocco, Germany, Hungary, India, China and Japan. The French oil is known as “essence d’Armoise”Artemisia, probably better known as armoise, mugwort and also by many here in the UK as common wormwood. The essential oil is pale yellow in colour, of a pourable viscosity, and obtained by steam distilling the leaves which are completely dried out first. The aroma has real power, strength and long-lasting depth; sweet, herbal, bitter and davana boozy throughout. Armoise NNO+ is a brilliant modifier and is created by a special approach and technology for creating reconstituted oils.
Balsm Copaiba Dipterocarpus turbinatus (the last an international name for Dipterocarpus wood) is a species of tree in the family Dipterocarpaceae native to western India and mainland Southeast Asia and cultivated in surrounding areas.The tree is indigenous within the area from India (Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Tripura, Andaman Islands, Nicobar Islands), Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos to Vietnam. While it is cultivated in Indonesia (Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan), Philippines, and China (southeast Xizang, southern & western Yunnan). It is an important source of the wood known as keruing and is often used in the plywood industry.Balsam is the resinous exudate from living trees and shrubs. Balsam is a solution of plant-specific resins in plant-specific solvents (essential oils).Such resins can include resin acids, esters or alcohols. The exudate is a mobile to highly viscous liquid and often contains crystallized resin particles. Over time and as a result of other influences the exudate loses its liquidizing components or gets chemically converted into a solid material(by auto oxidation). Resins are difficult to classify because of their amorphous nature. Even the term "resin" is not sharply defined.Plant resins are sometimes classified as mixtures with other plant constituents. For example as pure resins (guaiac, hashish) gum-resins (containing gums/polysaccharides), oleo-gum-resins (a mixture of gums, resins and essential oils).Oleo-resins (a mixture of resins and essential oils, e. g. capsicum, ginger and aspidinol). Balsams (resinous mixtures that contain cinnamic and/or benzoic acid or their esters) and glycoresins (podophyllin, jalap, kava kava). The perfume extracted from the sap of the tree Commiphora opobalsamum is designated in the Bible by various names: bosem, besem, ?ori, nataf, and in rabbinic literature, kataf, balsam, appobalsamon, afarsemon. It was the only tropical, and the most expensive spice grown in Israel.It was known to Pliny as obalsamum.Apparently the balsam of the Bible also signifies some remedy compounded of balsam sap and other ingredients.The Balm of Gilead is mentioned as having healing properties. Balsam was an ingredient of the incense (ketoret) burned in the Tabernacle.The Egyptian town of Ain Shams was renowned for its balsam-garden, which was cultivated under the supervision of the government.During the Middle Ages the balsam-tree is said to have grown only here, though formerly it had also been a native plant in Syria. According to a Coptic tradition known also by the Muslims.It was in the spring of Ayn Shams that Mary the mother of Jesus, washed the clothes of the latter on her way back to Palestine after her flight to Egypt. From that time onwards the spring was beneficient. During the Middle Ages balsam-trees could only produce their precious secretion on land watered by it.Balsam is also known as Balsam of Mecca. At present the tree Commiphora opobalsamum grows wild in the valley of Mecca where it is called beshem. Many strains of this species are found. Some in Somalia and Yemen. As a perfume it is hardly used today. It serves in the Orient as a healing agent for wounds and as an antidote to snakebite and the sting of scorpions.In fragrances it has good application for woody blends , it especially blends very well with Sandalwood Oil , Patchouli. Can be used upto 10% levels for Oriental Bends.
The Balsam of Peru, also known and marketed by many other names is a balsam derived from a tree known as Myroxylon. The natural resinous balsam that comes from the trunk of the tree contains a mix of a number of substances that are generally related to cinnamon, vanilla, and clove fragrances and flavorings which is grown in Central America (primarily in El Salvador) and South America. Balsam of Peru is used in food and drink for flavoring. In perfumes and toiletries for fragrance, and in medicine and pharmaceutical items for healing properties. It has a sweet scent. In some instances, Balsam of Peru is listed on the ingredient label of a product by one of its various names. But it may not be required to be listed by its name by mandatory labeling conventions. Balsam of Peru is an aromatic viscous resin obtained by scorching or inflicting V-shaped wounds on the bark of the trunk of the tree.Myroxylon balsamum var. pereirae. The tree has also been introduced to several Pacific islands such as Fiji and to Indonesia and is a potential ecological threat there. About 50 to 64 percent volatile oil is present in Balsam and resin is 20 to 28 percent. The contents of volatile oil are benzoic acid, cinnamic acid esters. It is belived that the main active constituents of resin are benzoic acid and cinnamic acid. About 60% of this oil is cinnamein which is a volatile oil and extracted by the steam distillation. Commercially this is used in the perfume industry, cosmetic industry and soap industry. There are number of chemicals available in Balsam Peru like : alpha-muurolene, benzyl-benzoate,beta-elemene,alpha-copaene,alpha-curcumene,benzyl-cinnamate, benzyl-isoferulate,benzaldehyde,benzoic, benzoic-acids,cadalene,benzyl-ferulate,Alpha-bourbonene, beta-bourbonene,alpha-cadinene,alpha-calacorene,alpha-pinene,caryophyllene,benzyl-alcohol,calamenene. Other containts are cinnamaldehyde, cinnamein, cinnamic-acids, cinnamyl-benzoate, cinnamyl-cinnamate, cis-ocimene, coumarin, d-cadinene, dammaradienone, delta-cadinene, dihydromandelic-acid, eugenol, farnesol, Ferulic-acid, gamma-muurolene, hydroxyhopanone, l-cadinol, methyl-cinnamate, nerolidol, oleanolic-acid, p-cymene, peruresinotannol, peruviol, resin, styrene, sumaresinolic-acid, tannin, toluresinotannol-cinnamate, vanillin, and wax.in care perfumery due to IFRA regulations. However where permitted , BMV has developed a unique product namely Balsam Peru Super Absolute , which is very light in colour and very delicate and soft in odour. Also Balsam Peru NNO a very true reconstitution of the Oil.
Balsam Tolu is a recent (non-fossil) resin that originates from South America (Columbia, Peru, Venezuela), similar to Balsam of Peru. It is tapped from the living trunks of Myroxylon toluiferum. It is a brownish, sticky, semisolid mass. An essential oil is also distilled from the balsam. The balsam contains a fairly large amount of esters of benzoic and cinnamic acid (benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate). In 1841, Henri Étienne Sainte-Claire Deville isolated toluene by the dry distillation of tolu balsam. The resin, as well as the leaves and fruit, have been traditionally used by the people of Central America and South America to relieve coughs and asthma, and to treat wounds. Its name comes from Tolú (singular); Tolúes (plural). The name of the native precolumbian people that used to be the inhabitants at the same place where now is located Tolu, a small town and municipality in Sucre Department, northern Colombia (South America) by the Caribbean sea. Tolues were the first reported to be using this resin in early Spanish chronicles. The resin of this tree is what is most valuable and is retrieved in the same fashion that one collects the valuable properties from a rubber tree by tapping into it. The gummy resin that comes from the tree is then turned into balsam. Today, the main exporters of Balsam of Tolu are El Salvador, Columbia, and Venezuela. Tolu balsam is comprised of 3/4 fragrant resinous compound, containing approximately 15% free cinnamic acid and benzoic acid and about 40% of the benzyl and related esters of these free acids. A volatile oil is present in small amounts (from 1.5% to 7%). Traces of styrene, coumarin and vanillin are also present. In earlier times it was tribal groups from Mexico and Central America that used the leaves of Balsam of Tolu to treat such common ailments as external wounds, asthma, colds, flu, and arthritis. Some native Indians used the bark in a powered form as an underarm deodorant while others found it best for lung and cold ailments. Those who originated in the rainforest tribes used Balsam of Tolu quite frequently for many medicinal purposes such as Abscesses, Asthma, Bronchitis, Catarrh and Diarrhoea. Resinoid Tolu is a very good Fixative for Vanilla and Musks. Imparting a persistent sweet vanillic odour.
The bay tree is a popular evergreen shrub suitable for containers or growing in the ground. Kept neatly clipped, the dark-green foliage can create stunning formal shapes that make an entrance or look perfect on a patio. Bay leaves can be used fresh or dried and are used in cooking to give a fragrant flavour to soups, stews and other dishes.Bay can be grown in a number of ways. It thrives in containers, especially if watered regularly and positioned in a sheltered spot. In the garden, bay trees grow as a large bushy shrub or small tree, reaching a height of 7.5m (23ft) or more. Bay can also be turned into topiary (trees or shrubs cut or trained into specified shapes) specimens which can be shaped into pyramid, ball or "lollipop" standards, and some have ornately plaited or spirally trained stems.Bay needs a well-drained soil and a sheltered sunny or part-shady position. Taste and Aroma : If eaten whole, bay leaves are pungent and have a sharp, bitter taste. As with many spices and flavorings, the fragrance of the bay leaf is more noticeable than its taste. When dried, the fragrance is herbal, slightly floral, and somewhat similar to oregano and thyme. Myrcene, which is a component of many essential oils used in perfumery, can be extracted from the bay leaf. They also contain the essential oil eugenol. Uses : Ancient Greeks were using the leaves of Bay for flavoring. Bay leaves work as a fixture in the cooking of several Europian cuisines specialy in the Americas as well as of the Mediterranean.Commonly they are used in Meat, Soups, Stews, Seafood, vegitable dishes and Sauces. Many French classic dishes are also flavoured by the leaves of Bay. Generaly the leaves are used as a whole ( some times are used in a bouquet garni) and removed before serving ( they can be abrasive in the digestive tract). Thai cuisine employs bay leaf (Thai name bai kra wan) in a few Arab-influenced dishes, notably massaman curry. Bay (laurel) leaves are frequently packaged as tejpatta (the Hindi term for Indian bay leaf), creating confusion between the two herbs. In the Philippines, dried bay laurel leaves are added as a spice in the Filipino dish Adobo.Bay leaves can also be crushed or ground before cooking. Crushed bay leaves impart more of their desired fragrance than whole leaves, but are more difficult to remove, and thus they are often used in a muslin bag or tea infuser. Ground bay laurel may be substituted for whole leaves, and does not need to be removed, but it is much stronger due to the increased surface area and in some dishes the texture may not be desirable. Bay leaves can also be used scattered in a pantry to repel meal moths, roaches, mice, and silverfish.Bay leaves have been used in entomology as the active ingredient in killing jars. The crushed, fresh, young leaves are put into the jar under a layer of pape. The vapors they release kill insects slowly but effectively, and keep the specimens relaxed and easy to mount. The leaves discourage the growth of molds.The crushed, fresh, young leaves are put into the jar under a layer of pape. In indian and Pakistani cuisines, Bay laurel leaves are sometime used in place of Indian Bay leaf, although they have the different flavors.Most often they are used in rice dishes like Biryani as an ingredient of Garam Masala.
Benzoin resin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of several species of trees in the genus Styrax. It is used in perfumes, some kinds of incense, as a flavoring and medicine. Commonly called "benzoin" is also called "benzoin resin" here to distinguish it from the chemical compound benzoin. Benzoin is also called gum benzoin or gum benjamin. But "gum" is incorrect as benzoin is not a polysaccharide. Its name came via the Italian from the Arabic luban jawi. Benzoin resin is also called styrax balsam or styrax resin,but wrongly since those resins are obtained from a different plant family, Hamamelidaceae. Benzoin was first reported in 1832 by Justus von Liebig and Friedrich Woehler during their research on oil of bitter almond which isbenzaldehyde with traces of hydrocyanic acid. Benzoin resin is a common ingredient in incense-making and perfumery because of its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties.Gum benzoin is a major component of the type of church incense used in Russia and some other Orthodox Christian societies as well as Western Catholic Churches. Most benzoin is used in Arab States of the Persian Gulf and India. Where it is burned on charcoal as incense. It is also used in the production of Bakhoor (Arabic scented wood chips) as well as various mixed resin incense in the Arab countries and the Horn of Africa.Benzoin tree is from Java, Sumatra and Thailand and grows to 8 meters (20 feet). Deep incisions are made in the trunk of the tree from which the grayish colored sap exudes.When the resinous lump becomes hard and brittle, it is collected from the bark of Benzoin. In ancient civilizations it was used in fumigation and it is also an ingredient of 'Friar's balsam', an aid to respiratory problems. It is also used as a fixative in the perfume industry.There are following unique Benzoin products manufactured by BMV Fragrances Pvt Ltd.Perfumery use of Benzoin can hardly be described as this material virtually blends with almost every known material. In traces it also helps Rose accords and can be used in high percentages in Musks and Orientals.